No rev counter.....

[fasteddie]

Stiggy is right about loom modifications, I`m pretty good with diagrams and fault finding so when I started to modify,ie cut out unwanted bits I kept engine running and after every snip I checked lights and instruments and even though you may not have the item ie pop up lights heater ect. 2 or 3 times cutting through an obsolete wire killed the engine so fore warned is fore armed.

[sspogman]

Hi Stiggy / Ted,

You both make very valid and fair points. From my perspective, I haven't tried to modify the loom at all, and have all of the rear lights and the side repeaters connected up and working - hopefully I'll get time to have a go at the front lights this week.

When talking about the coil pack, I have read that leaving the ignition switched on without the engine running can cause a coil pack to fail - this is certainly a situation that I may have had as my son enjoys sitting in the car and playing, not to mention I may well have inadvertently left it switched on myself...

[blobnnob]

Hi you guys, had the trician out, sorted!! best £30 we've spent.
At sometime in her history someone must have put in an accessory and used an earth in the loom and it was just taped up, put it to earth and it was sorted. My tip lookout for any non standard wires in loom and trace if possible.
Good luck Jeff

[sspogman]

Got back from hols a couple of days ago, so started to work on her again.

Ordered a replacement coilpack whilst away, got it fitted today. Bad news is that it hasn't rectified the rev counter issue. Good news is that the engine is running much more sweetly now....there's still a little stuttering at times though, just wondering if the idle control needs adjusting due to swapping out the standard airbox for a K&N cone filter???

[sspogman]

Great news - thanks to Kitcrazy this is now fixed.

Turns out that there are 2 connectors in the loom that were originally plugged in to the heater area of the dashboard that needed to be plugged together.

Did this and all works perfectly again! :-)

[300tt]

sspogman,

I was just going to post that I found the exact same thing. I couldn't get my tach to work along with the water temp gauge, etc. I found some HVAC/Blower connectors over the weekend that I missed since I didn't think they were needed. I plugged those in and the gauges all worked.

I haven't driven mine yet, but I've installed a K&N type of filter and mine seemed to rev very smoothly...no sputtering, etc. The only difference I noticed was it makes a much louder "hissing/sucking" sound. I have the 1.8L engine...not sure if you have the 1.6 or 1.8L engine? You can look through pictures at the following link and see if my air intake setup is similar to yours, if you want? www.exocars.net/showthread.php?t=7494

[sspogman]

Hi Mark,

Good to hear that I'm not the only one suffering this same issue interestingly though, the only gauge not working for me was the tacho - the oil, fuel, temperature were all working fine...

I've registered on the exocars forum to look at your pics and yes, my K&N cone is quite similar to yours, although it does appear to be a little longer and started off as more of a red colour (although the colour seems to have faded already). Here's a picture of the kit that I bought:



Mine's also a 1.8 and I've only driven it about 10 yards along the driveway - it's all I can do to stop myself from taking it for a blast around the Close, not sure whether or not any of the neighbours would make a call to the old Bill if I were to...

That said, on my very limited test drive she seems smooth and torquey enough, it's just when she's stood there ticking over that I can hear the occasional lumpiness / misfire. Might try changing the fuel filter over again as I ended up taking the new one off and putting the original back on when playing around a couple of months back.

[300tt]

My filter isn't an actual K&N...it was a cheaper "knockoff" at our local auto parts store. Mine appears to be much smaller than what your using but I doubt the size and shape of it has much to do with your hesitation. However, I could easily be wrong!

I have another car that has K&N cone filters and it seems to idle pretty smooth too. So, hopefully you can find the issue with your car. It could be the way the air is going through the MAF sensor. If you have a shop manual, maybe you could do some testing on the MAF if the fuel filter doesn't fix it for you? Just a thought...

Good luck!

[sspogman]

Thanks for the ideas Mark. To be fair the lumpiness that I described isn't all that noticeable, it's more a gentle 'phut' sound from the exhaust once every few seconds. I'll see what she's like once I get her on the open road and decide what (if anything) to do from there.

[tomaff]

So I thought I would revive this thread as I am having the same issue. I have speedo, fuel, oil, and lights on the dash. The only part not working is the rev counter. I have checked all earths and they are all connected with a good grounding.

Earths from the tail stop lamps? I have wired these up to check they work with a positive and negative, both work but do I need a third wire for an earth? Although I have not connected up all lights at the same time. Could this be causing the no rev counter issue?

There was mention of heater connectors needed to be connected? Has some one got a photo of the connectors?

All in all I am lost. Can anyone help shed any light?

[tomaff]

Another little bump, as I am still lost.......

[h5ngs]

Ill have a check tonight at te wiring diagrams see if I can help you through it, the connectors I believe you are on about is the two green ones

[tomaff]

If you could that would be great. A photo would be outstanding.

Thanks.
T

[gwnwar]

The power to the gage is a Y/L (yellow/blue) wire from the igniter. The connector hooks the Front and Instrument harness
together..

[h5ngs]

Yeah look at the wiring diagram, the signal comes from the yellow and blue wire from the igniter box, the little black box the feed the coils, goes from there to the instruments,

it doesnt show a connector on the diagram but if you have a multi meter, disconnect box the igniter box and the instruments and carry out a resistance check on that wire, it will be labeled on the back of the instruments what its for, it lists it as 1H on the diagram on the instruments and pin D (4) on the igniter.

If that wire is ok then maybe an issue with another connector, igniter or instruments, check that first and let us know how you get on
.
here is the igniter including wiring info

i1251.photobucket.com/albums/hh544/ctaylor1234567899/viatura-mazdamx-5-base-motor-ignicao-cop-parts-16l-ig_plug1_6rear_explained.jpg

for some reason it will not let me use direct image code to view the picture.