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Post by perthwa on Sept 29, 2021 1:17:09 GMT
Re-wired the headlights and the dipper switch that I made now works. Installed the dash light, the blue one shown above so that we are compliant with High beam indicator for DOT. Not sure if I mentioned that I purchased a proper crimping tool and used it to join the extended battery cables. These have been sleeved and water proofed. Here is an image of the making of my toggle switch housing for the Dimmer switch. a bolt into a steel shaft. Then I passed the wires through and the round switch is press fit into the pipe. Here is a repeat photo showing it in place. This is what the side cover looked like before I cut out the bolt holes, hit it with the hammer as one of the rivets was in the way, and also cleaned it up... And here is a snap to show the ECU sitting in place. The Fuel tank, pump and filter will be sitting above. p.s. I did not put the holes in the checker-plate floor... Decided to clean up the filter piping... Not sure of the ramifications but. it now has access to the air coming through the vent. I may be looking at a bit of shielding to separate the heated exhaust heat from the cooler air from outside. Yet to decide. Now... back to the shed and that leaking fuel tank.
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Post by perthwa on Oct 1, 2021 13:49:42 GMT
complete reversal! Due to the fact that I weld / braze like .... I have decided that I need to revert to the minuscule Aluminium tank that came with the car... I have properly mounted it. added some hoses... And just need to move the fuel pump a bit to the RHS side the path of the hoses is straighter. The mini van tank was just not cooperating. Then I read about chasing fracture cracks all around the tanks... and that was what I was effectively doing... Just need some 50mm hose clamps for the filler neck and some 12 mm and 8mm for the filter and pump... and we have fuel. Then breather hose... Connect up the charcoal canister as soon as I can find a diagram that shows me some of the 2004 pipes and hoses as they have mostly been cut and plugged. Not sure DOT will approve... Received my VIN number so now I can apply for a permit to go to engineer etc...
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Post by perthwa on Oct 17, 2021 13:15:16 GMT
It drives.... but only stops with the handbrake.... You can see the holes where the brakes should be!!! Just waiting for Twin master cylinder pedal unit, then mount the master cylinders and source plunger bolts to suit. Complete Bonnet fixing mechanism and key locks, put Nose cone back on, make a decision on engine cover fitment, complete seat strengthening and fitment, make and fix seat insert foam cushion things. Finish Brake light wiring to pedal switch and through to brake lights, finish Indicator wiring, Purchase Front parking lights and do fitment. Purchase and Fit side visibility indicator lights. Modify brake master cylinder caps with the RS components float mechanisms I purchased and then wire them up to the handbrake and dash warning light. Make brackets for and fit rear Mudguards. Fit numberplate support mechanism front and rear. Fit rear number plate light. Clean up centre console wiring harnesses. Fit ignition isolation key thing to dash area somewhere. Fix the slight engine misfire... aka check plugs wire etc. Probably fit wire protective cover over rear exhausts. Fit charcoal canister to fuel tank and purge valve thing and intake manifold. Make VIN number plate and fix to frame. Find input for Tachometer. Find input for speedo. Refit and complete Fuel tank fire wall. Engineer visit... Then hopefully DOT. Lets try a video... photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM9hraxCIQClHK5NuWVPGg54-xwl4lFPkXmY2IsqvyRV9mLlKOv1BEISKOdQDzlWw/photo/AF1QipNrju1jyDjkipsJ3gwoJOyzr0jfGojY6dVwegmc?key=c2hKdjhSdlNKaDZrNllmVjNpQTNqZE5wdW9oSVhB
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Post by perthwa on Oct 17, 2021 14:04:35 GMT
My son came over and we debugged the wiring and that allowed us to get it running. went form this to this Then we had Dash lights working again. Then we checked the electrical supply to the coil pack. Was fine on key on... 12 Volts... but dropped to zero on the start position. Well then we checked to key diagram... and sure enough... it was wired so that the accessories was considered to be position 2... hence key at start position actually cut current to that accessories circuit. Switched one wire and voila! Also made up a accelerator return spring adapter as it is reluctant to return quite back to idle. The replace the grub screw in the idle screw adjuster unit with a bolt as it was close to limit of thread. Better idle now apart form slight misfire..
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Post by perthwa on Oct 23, 2021 11:46:28 GMT
Moving forward: Finished brake light wiring to pedal switch and through to brake lights. Modified brake master cylinder caps with the RS components float mechanisms that I purchased and have wired them up to the handbrake and dash warning light. Fitted numberplate support mechanism rear. Fitted rear number plate light and wire into harness.
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Post by perthwa on Oct 29, 2021 12:00:49 GMT
LED parking lights installed on the front. Brake pedal arrived and that's next.
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Post by perthwa on Nov 5, 2021 6:04:29 GMT
Added some side marking lamps Then decided that I should try and make some side panels to make the car a bit more inviting for any guests. four out of 8 trimmed roughly that just need a bit of clean up, paint and fitting... That will be a few hours... I need to make some tabs to attach to the frame. Purchased 50 4mm Rivnuts to allow them to be removable. Next Item is the brakes again. I ordered some grade 8 - 5/16 UNF x 4.5 inch bolts to make into a couple of push rods for the master cylinders. Just need to round off the heads and fit... hopefully the length is good. I did measure them... Next in line is bleed brakes. check for leaks etc. Still have to attach the rear cover nicely... Not sure how this will be achieved. I do have 4 tabs and for screw holes that the previous builder used... not sure yet... would be nice to have something that opens... but time is an issue just now. Hopefully I can determine how the reverse light functions from the gearbox and get that plumbed in. and I would also like to add a couple of the down bolts that will better support the Wilwood brake pedal. The fire wall, even with my 3mm steel backing plate, is a bit flimsy. Busy weekend...
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Post by perthwa on Nov 6, 2021 12:13:37 GMT
Brake master cylinder Pushrods made and installed.
Stuck the bolts in the drill press and turned them over a file to round the end.
Fitted the baking plates and added the circlip to install. Seem to fit ok. Just need to bleed both sides of the front brakes and should be ok to start fine tuning the bias. I did a few fast drives on the driveway and some heavy braking. At least they stop the car but a bit spongey.
Fixed reversing light. This was wired incorrectly before I purchased it and after an hour of work with the multi-meter, I have found the problem.. Reverse light is good.
Put a descent heat cycle through the radiator and noticed that the cooling fan is now not working.. Well, it use to be on all of the time and now it doesn't come on at all. The engine temperature was only 75 degrees so maybe it was just not hot enough.
More to come.
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Post by perthwa on Nov 7, 2021 9:59:26 GMT
Update... Made a rear exhaust cover out of 3mm Al. Still need to clean the AL surface. There is old plastic coating and a bit of dirt. Plenty of air gap... Didn't get hot while we were driveway testing. Someone in the Sports Car Builder's Club here in WA suggested that my rear mudguards might not be legal. I have a cardboard drawing I made to see. I used it for my Sonic, and here is the Rocket guard on the template. As far as I can see, they should fit the bill. 30 degrees from vertical for front side. 50 degrees for rear side and less than 150 mm above horizontal... My son cleaned up the centre Console wiring by adding some conduit. Here is the rear light we got working yesterday. and here is the new pedal assembly installed. just need some real road braking data. I might go back and read the Wilwood brake bias info. Sill yet to add bolts from the top dash support down to the brake pedal assembly.
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Post by wishful4444 on Nov 7, 2021 15:43:24 GMT
Good day perthwa
I presume the exhaust cover is a requirement for Australian regulations?
Just a thought but on a longer drive it will restrict the airflow over the exhaust. Perhaps put some air/heat release holes in the cover?
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Post by perthwa on Nov 14, 2021 11:28:39 GMT
not sure if any guard at the rear is required, but i am not wanting to go there and give them any excuses for rejection. I know a side cover is required for exhaust. Update: Made one of my rear mudguard support brackets; basically a u-shaped piece of 5mm steel that has two 5mm bolts either side that connect to the support structures on the Drive shaft upright. This will allow me to bolt through to the Angle Iron section that I will use to attach the guard. I have yet to neaten it up and remove the scale... This was from a portable BBQ hotplate. The four bolts I have used are just for placement... I will get better ones. And from the front side with the guard sitting on the top section. Looking down with me just holding it in place. No angle iron included, nor support bolts. There is access for the locking nut on the upright adjuster... and this is sort of what it should look like when I bolt it in position.
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Post by perthwa on Dec 15, 2021 13:51:16 GMT
revisit the design of the rear fenders. Decided that the supplied rear guards will not be passing the DOT inspection. So a mate told me that someone else had used the spare tyre, metal and shiny cover that a number of FWD vehicles have protecting the spare wheel and made it into some rear guards. Well, I just happened to have one from kitcar #3 purchase. So I found an old support pole from athletics and some 7 mm rod from an old fence and now I have a wire framed support to hold the mudguard. Just sitting in place. Here it is before I changed the design of the support bracket behind the rear upright. This is just an in-principle shot. The wheel arch now covers the curved section where the shaft is bent so that you have to look at an angle to see the horisontal support. Now there is plenty of clearance from the top control arm. I will drill and tap the three places where the guard is being attached. More photos tomorrow when I do the driver's side.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 16, 2021 7:51:26 GMT
Two comments -
The harness bar looks like a flat strip, considering Australian regs I'm surprised it is accepted. The bends on the tubes adjacent to the engine cover looks like they have been flattened during bending, this will seriously weaken them.
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Post by perthwa on Dec 20, 2021 23:49:00 GMT
both points noted. The supplier is one of the DOT engineers so I am not sure what was actually supplied and what was modified or added when supplied. I added the photos to better show what you were pointing out. I did query in my own head the bends... Regards, BW
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Post by perthwa on Dec 21, 2021 5:29:23 GMT
Random Jobs: I added the extra down bolts to hold the pedal box to complement the flimsy ones through the fire wall. Now there are 7 out of the 8 support bolts in place, so I am happier. Then I started to tighten all of the bolts related to the suspension as a check. Made up a bracket to support the springs for clutch and brake pedals. The bracket has same pattern on the clutch side. Now cleaning up and routing the 'under dash' wiring. Ordered two sets of lockable flush mount bonnet structures. e-bay knock-offs as I could not justify 300$ AU to get aerocatch version. That will be used to hold the front bonnet and the rear engine cover in place. I can then probably remove the stretch rubber clamp things that are in the cabin area. I think that DOT will not like their location or the sharp edges. Now will relocate the key CHIP thing somewhere near the dash area (it is currently behind the driver's seat) and then work out how I can get the sensor to work conveniently. Apparently, this is called a PATS transceiver module. The PATS module communicates Generates an “exciter” field that powers the chip in the key, which then transmits encoded data back to the transceiver. The original builder used an aftermarket ignition switch and key... but the original transmitter is still attached. At the moment the old key is taped to the transceiver... Looking at making some of the hard surfaces in the cabin to be a bit more forgivable. And must finish the seats... More to come and a few snaps. Made a decision to countersink the rivnut bolt heads, a bit more than I had already done, on my muffler guard; much nicer. I did go for a drive around the front yard again today. Not as eventful as yesterday when I drove around with a top ball joint nut missing. Lucky not to do too much damage... OBSERVATION: The front end is very light... do these cars understeer a lot? Is there any tricks to the set up. I think my front tyre pressure is very high so I will drop that down... thoughts?
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