phaeton
Full
Thinking of Supercharging
Posts: 170
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Post by phaeton on May 27, 2021 17:22:34 GMT
Are you sure they are due to corrosion? Not at home to compare mine, but I'm surprised both have rotted to exactly the same amount in the same place on both sides of the car, are they drain holes?
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Post by geoff on May 29, 2021 8:23:07 GMT
Ok, So this is all going to slow down now, given the amount of corrosion on the lower wishbone, I wanted to check everything on the rear end to address any issues now rather than later. So the only way to do this is first to remove the rear subframe. The brake line connectors that connected the hard lines to the flexi lines were completely seized, no surprise there, and I am not using hard lines on the build, so happily chopped these off leaving the tabs on the subframe clean, on the drivers side there are two threads to hold the bracket welded onto the bracket, one of these sheared off, so will drill that out and replace with a nut a bolt. Exhaust rubbers removed, no issue. Separating the diff bar from the subframe is where I stopped, on each side you have a large nut through the centre of the mounts and two 12mm nuts on the side to hold the bracket. With lots of freedom juice, wire brushing, and no ugger dugger, I carefully eased the 12mm nuts, one on the passengers side was not in great shape and moved a bit and then I could no longer grip it, on the drivers side one was already butchered and nothing I could do....someone has been here before me! So I am taking this very slowly, one bolt at a time, and stripping it all back....bolt by bolt....so be patient!   |
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Post by geoff on May 29, 2021 8:41:46 GMT
Given what you had posted previously I was surprised by what you appeared to be considering. Unfortunately reports about the 'misdemeanors' IVA Examiners have seen would not put it beyond probability. It was not a consideration, I was not serious, I must be sure to make it clearer next time.... |
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Post by geoff on May 29, 2021 16:37:10 GMT
New arms arrived....  You can see the captive nut for the shock absorber has survived....  |
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Post by geoff on May 30, 2021 7:29:17 GMT
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Post by geoff on May 30, 2021 12:59:00 GMT
Quick question, because I have not researched this part yet....exhausts...if I go for the stainless back box from MEV do I have to replace all my exhaust, or just cut the end box off, and where do I do that?
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phaeton
Full
Thinking of Supercharging
Posts: 170
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Post by phaeton on May 30, 2021 14:14:06 GMT
I'm running a Mevster not an Exocet but the central frame is the same AFAIK mine is also 1.6 but don't see why it wouldn't be the same for a 1.8. Standard Mazda exhaust manifold into an aftermarket Cat (the standard expensive one had been removed & sold before I bought the car). All the while I was building the car I managed to make a piece of standard pipe work between the Cat & the MEV silencer, but when it was complete before IVA I took it & had a bespoke stainless section made (£120 I think it was), passed IVA no issues with noise. Although I was disappointed to find the MEV exhaust was a single outlet with a dummy on the other side.
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Post by geoff on May 31, 2021 7:18:38 GMT
A little further on this morning, the plan was to have the rear subframe out and the lower frame removed. I had two problem nuts holding diff arm to the frame, sprayed with freedom juice, heated them up, wire brushed the threads, and then used a nut extractor bit, and they came out with no issue. Here is a link to the extractor set I used: www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Remover-Pieces-Extractor-Socket/dp/B07RNZBT3F/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Impact+Bolt+%26+Nut+Remover+Set+13+Pieces%2C+Nut+Extractor+Socket%2C+Bolt+Remover+Tool+Set&qid=1622444395&sr=8-3For the four bolts holding the frame to the subframe, same process but used the ugger dugger since these are much bigger bolts and these spun out with no issues. So I am just about ready to get the rear end parts off to the Power Coaters, I have a couple of sheared off captive bolts to replace, so will get them drilled out, and see if I can get new captive bolts welded back into place. One of them is for the Diff arm bush mounting, I am planning to use the Energy Suspension poly bush kit, and it looks like I will not need the plates on the diff bar mounts, can someone confirm this please? If this is corredct then I do not need to replace that bolt, the other is one one of the threads on the driver side that holds the brake line connecter, hard line to flexi line. I am going flexi line througout, so just need to research the connectors that are provided to see if I will need these two bolts or whether I have to use something completly different. So some research to be done before I head off to the Powder Coaters. One other question, I have seen on many builds that the lower frame needs to be chopped to leave just a square frame with four mounting holes...is this the case for the latest Exocet build as well?    |
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Post by Stewart on Jun 1, 2021 14:16:08 GMT
These arms always seem to present a major battle that has to be fought eight times. I wonder why MEV doesn't offer a set of fabricated replacements similar to Lotus/Locost. Would save some weight as well as frustration. Due to the cost really. The Exocet is supposed to be a low cost kit car and offering an optional upgrade which costs around £800 isn't really what we're trying to achieve. There are already aftermarket wishbones available for the MX5 if you want to go down that route. |
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Post by geoff on Jun 1, 2021 15:18:34 GMT
These arms always seem to present a major battle that has to be fought eight times. I wonder why MEV doesn't offer a set of fabricated replacements similar to Lotus/Locost. Would save some weight as well as frustration. Due to the cost really. The Exocet is supposed to be a low cost kit car and offering an optional upgrade which costs around £800 isn't really what we're trying to achieve. There are already aftermarket wishbones available for the MX5 if you want to go down that route. Hey Stewart, can you also let me know about the 6 bolt frame that sits below the rear subframe, do I need to chop the arms so that it only has a four bolt frame? |
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Post by Stewart on Jun 1, 2021 15:40:15 GMT
That's right. you only need the 4 rear bolts but you'll need to make up a couple of lengths to attach the rear subframe to the two tabs on the chassis.
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Post by geoff on Jun 5, 2021 7:36:38 GMT
Hi all, some more progress today....first to get the exhaust out of the way, I heated up the two bolts on the connector on the rear side of the cat, and put the ugger digger on max power, and they came straight off, no arguments...fab...then to remove the sheared bolts on the rear subframe, one was one of the two that holds the brake line connector on the drivers side which was easily accessible with a small angle grinder...   The other one was one of the bolts that hold the plate that goes between the bushes on the subframe and the rear diff frame, pulled out my dremel for that one, and then the bolt broke on the head that's holds the wheel to the spindle, not a surprise, it has been iffy for a while and a new one ordered from the jungle website for delivery tomorrow. Next to tackle the lower frame, taking off the tails to leave a square frame...out came the angle grinder again, removed a couple of welds on the side with the arm coming off at an angle and chopped the other to match...looking good...  Next....and to be honest I started this midweek, because this one was always going to take some time, so grabbed any spare 30 minute slots I had to...........clean up the rear diff mount....and with a lot of wire wheel, 600g wet and dry it is looking nice, I also used a red scotch pad for the frame linking the front to the back and that is coming up nice too, although not completely done yet. 
The surprise for me today was to find green on the car, the tops of the drive shafts, underneath the grime both are green, you can see that on the image above if you open it. Looking at supposed genuine used ones on Ebay and they look like they are the same, so these must be stock...but will have to be painted black to match the theme. |
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Post by geoff on Jun 12, 2021 8:29:49 GMT
Hi all, so today I spent more time getting the rear diff mount cleaned up and attempted to remove the two large bushes, air hammer.....nope....hammer and drift....nope.....drill out the centre and then hammer out....nope....so still stuck in there, going to cut a slot in the outer metal sleeve with a hacksaw to release the tension, so will try that another time, I was getting frustrated and need to ensure that I am level headed when I do that to ensure that I do not cut into the diff mount. So moved onto repairing the mushrooming on the end of one of the driveshafts, managed to smooth it all out and noticed the thread did not look too good, and sure enough I could not get a nut onto it....doh...over £100 for a Die to recut the thread, or £20 for a new CV joint and boot kit (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140563385364)....ordered I then started to get the hubs ready for paint, dust guards have to go first, big water pump pliers to rip them off, angle grinder to get anything left, and then ground what was left to be flush with the hub, all very straight forward. Then I noticed two bushes that I missed on my bush removal weekend (!), so pulled out the homemade kit and whipped them off in no time...20mins for both sides. I will be media blasting the hub, so started thinking about how I will protect the bearings....the best solution is to get the bearings out, but I do not have a press and in keeping with trying to keep this within a budget, and doing as much of this myself, I will tape and bung, and do the blasting myself very carefully....yes a sandblasting cabinet is coming my way next weekend as it is one of those annual events where you celebrate being gifted the right to start a life, with death and taxes being the only sure things.....and maybe a MEV Exocet build complete!    |
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Post by geoff on Jun 13, 2021 7:21:31 GMT
Morning all, not so much time on my hands today so tackled an easy one, in preparation for the sandblasting cabinet coming next week.....ssshh it is supposed to be a surprise....so broke down the rear callipers, the 14mm bolts hiding the piston adjusters were in there solid, 6 point sockets a must, and to be honest I try to use 6 point on everything to avoid any rounding, those cheap socket sets will not be your friend! Anyway 14mm 6 point and a long breaker bar, it always makes me wince when a tough bolt makes a snapping noise on first nudge, is it free, or did it break....phew both free. The adjusting pistons made it a breeze, turning the 4mm Allen bolt adjuster to see the piston push out to a point where they can easily be removed. The pistons were not seized but were slightly pitted and corroded on the top so they will be replaced since it is only £15 to replace piston, o rings, bleed valves, and all the other rubbers etc, so no brainer. I have been looking at the front end, now that I am nearly there with the rear....not talking about those diff mount bushes today...and thinking it probably makes sense to strip the front down before sending the rear off to powder coaters, and get it all done together...but then again, when has doing anything that makes sense been fun....  Next weekend will be challenging to do any updates due to the family descending to provide suitable tributes...don't give up on me, I will be back! |
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Post by geoff on Jun 14, 2021 8:53:18 GMT
Just received the new CV joint...nice:  Just have to knock off that ABS sensor ring. Just thinking....Powder Coat versus traditional paint....thinking that as I have a blast cabinet on the way, will I be able to get a good enough surface to then prime and paint....and the thought process is that if I get any chips/scuffs, I just need to sand down and paint again...versus powder coat chips that will always look naff, and require powder coating again to remove....and it will also follow in the spirit of this build...trying to do as much as I can myself. There are plenty of paint solutions out there that can give a finish almost as good as powder coat I am sure...so will wait to see what results I can get get from the sandblast cabinet before I make my final decision, but you can see where I am going with this. |
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