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Post by edwinwl on Nov 19, 2011 19:22:59 GMT
This weekend I had not much time to work on my trike. But I started with my dashboard. With current design the dashboard is fixed to the nose cone. I did not like that when removing the cone for service, all dashboard wires have to be disconnected as well. I want a dashboard that is fixed to the car and not to the nose cone. Card board dashboard: Card board dashboard installed: Final version aluminum dashboard, first trial fitting. Bending the 2 mm plate with an old kitchen table and some other aluminum profiles was not easy. Final version aluminum dashboard, first trial fit. Inside view. Plenty of space to house switches, wires, junction boxes etc. To be continued...
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 26, 2011 23:28:09 GMT
This weekend only spend Saturday afternoon on the car. Continued my work on the dashboard. Made cut outs: Because the plate will be right in sight, I took all my time to measure and trim. Plate is 2mm, so I have plenty of material left for polishing.
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 3, 2011 21:10:32 GMT
More dashboard:
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 7, 2011 21:30:28 GMT
Dashboard inside fix:
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 9, 2011 18:40:14 GMT
Made a new gear lever. This one is much more slim.
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 11, 2011 12:16:10 GMT
Yesterday afternoon I statered to make the central tunnel fit:
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 18, 2011 13:02:09 GMT
Puzzling to get all in. - Widened the base of the tunnel up to 18 cm - Raised the parking brake to make more needed room - moved the gear lever a bit more to the left Plan is: Right side of the tunnel will be the "hot" side. Hot cooling water returning from the engine. Oil cooler and breather hoses will have passage from this side. Left side of the tunnel will be the "cooler" side. Cooled water goes back to the engine. At the gear lever and parking brake lever I am planning to make an aluminium conduct to protect the wiring from heat.
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Post by edwinwl on Dec 25, 2011 23:21:18 GMT
Central tunnel is in place, all pipes, wires, tubes, handles are connected and working. Pff. Started with the wiring.... Modified the loom for dashboard and lights: First phase of tidying up:
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Dec 26, 2011 23:21:00 GMT
Excellent, I will have to do some tidying up on my wires, but should be okay for its test all being well.
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Post by edwinwl on Jan 7, 2012 18:12:29 GMT
Worked all day on wiring. The original Ford light switch is now working with the bike wiring. All lights connections are working. Only for the starter I used one relay. For all other parts I use standard bike electronics that came with the donor.
Now waiting for the ordered lights and starter button.
Dash is showing no errors. Only my fuel sensor indicator is blinking.
I am not sure yet how to solve this. I refuse to drill a hole in the bottom of one of my fuel tanks to fit the sensor original way. Or I will modify the sensor so it can be fitted from the top of the fuel tank. Or I will disconnect the sensor and bridge the connectors to disable the warning light and place a separate sensor.
Suggestions?
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2012 18:44:10 GMT
I bridged the wires, which stopped the rev counter flicking up and down showing the warning, then initially I have covered the bulb up, but intend to remove it as I fitted a proper fuel gauge by the means of a dip pipe due to the shape of the tanks, works a treat mate. You can't beat a proper gauge.
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Post by edwinwl on Jan 8, 2012 15:12:07 GMT
Pictures! Believe me. Little visual progress, but quite some functional progress. Dashboard view: Inside dashboard view: On the left with the green connector is the fuel sensor. This week I will try to modify the sensor, so it can be mounted from the top of the tank. Likely the working principle is a capacitor. The capacity is depending on the isolation between cathode and anode (petrol or air). To be continued......
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Post by edwinwl on Jan 9, 2012 21:14:35 GMT
This evening modified the fuel sensor. Original fuel sensor: I calculated that the warning light should lit, when fuel level is below 20%. (about 4 liters left) Fuel tank is about 19 liters Fuel tank is about 38 cm deep So the sensor has to be about 30 cm of length. (19-4)/19x38cm = 30 cm ! So I cut the sensor in two. Soldering both ends to two solid 4mm2 copper wires. Soldered a new wire to the sensor and connector. This is how the modified sensor looks like: Fuel warning light has three states: 1. Flashing: sensor error. (Or no sensor attached) 2. On: sensor has contact with open air. 3. Off: sensor is submerged into fuel. Sensor in open air, warning light is on. (red arrows) Sensor submerged into fuel.... .... warning light is off. Also fitted the rectifier:
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Post by edwinwl on Jan 10, 2012 17:22:03 GMT
The beast parked in my garage:
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Post by edwinwl on Jan 14, 2012 19:16:04 GMT
Today the following:
- Headlights fitted, connected and functional. - Battery support with robust main switch. - Choke handle, mounted, connected and functional. - Starter button, mounted, connected and functional. - Warning lights button, mounted.
Pics will follow.
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