Here is my wiring tray at the moment, shortly after everything was working - display and engine turn over.
All was going so well, but i started reducing and combining some of the long earth wires, and I am back to having issues.
Totally my fault as I thought I was safe with messing with the earths and didnt bother testing engine\activity after each cut. I just careered on... and now no display again, when I turn the key I get a red (key\car) light up briefly and indicator lights work, but no odometer\digital display and no engine turn over.
Bugger. WHY DIDNT I TEST AFTER EACH CUT.
I have checked my new shortened earths so many times. I am sure they are good. What would make the Odometer display and engine turn over stop working?
Thanks Freaky and Garman, Think it turned out to be low battery. I had read about sort of similar issues on forums and thought it was a good place to start. Had it on a trickle charge all night and put it in. Turn key, immobiliser red light turns on and turns off withn a second and further turn of key, turns the engine over. So happy.
Only problem now is no display on the small digital display at the bottom. I definitely cut one wire from the back recently! Is there a simple power or earth for the digital read out here ?
Stuck one side on yesterday evening. The side does not fit on the ends very well. There is a gap of around 15-20mm each end, so basically cannot use PU adhesive as too big a gap.
I basically PU'd it on the bottom and top edge. Probably this is enough, but I am going to put some fixings through the ends, just to have something mechanicaly fixing it for peace of mind. Only 2 bolts, or something subtle that you cant see from the side.
Got some film in the same RAL2008 colour. I think it was Oracal 651 Gloss Vinyl, but please check.
Also painted the interior rough GRP finish, to stop it dusting etc.
Hand brake wiring issue sorted. Took a single thin wire from the hand brake switch, through a hole, pclip'd in tunnel and up into engine bay through wiring tray and into back of dash into one of the three connecters in the back of the binnacle.
It was a blue wire connection, quite easy to see on wiring diagram. There is a possibility I need to join the LOW Brake Fluid connector to it as I think the dash warning light is used by hand brake and low fluid warning. This will be easy to do as only 10 inches or so.
I am well aware the bonnet is not meant to lap over the 'dash board bar'. I guess, so it has enough room to hinge and lift up if required so it doesn't hit the dash binnacle to soon.
However, even with a lot of force the back of the bonnet only reached a little further than half way across the wiring tray.
Issue was the MEV radiator brackets.
Even with no radiator fitted, the end of the tabs of the brackets hit the inside of the nose and stopped it being pushed back....
This really grated me after such careful spraying and fitting. I guess the tolerances for the frame and the moulding for the nose are low. Another half inch wider nose would mitigate the issue. But quite simply, correctly fitted brackets end up fouling the nose.
I fitted radiator back a few cm's, but then standard massive MX5 fan did not fit behind radiator and lower frame bar.
I had already seen slim fans for sale, so another expense and £12 later all sorted.
Fitted hinges with metal work strengthening inside bonnet and seems really good.....but could have done without the wasted effort...