I had to increase the bend in the tube by a few degrees to get the metal filler pipe to fit.
I also cut off the bead on the bottom end of the filler neck pipe to allow the new and very stiff rubber filler pipe to fit over the metal pipe.
I initially drilled holes to bolt the filler neck down but didn't like the way they showed and the way the new cap sat proud of the body so I opted to fit a rubber collar around the protruding neck and grind down the new cap to have it flush with the filler neck when open.
To cover the holes I made initially I found that a brass doorknob back plate was a perfect fit.
RMV (DVLA) was a success, the car is now registered as a 2 door "coupe" despite my best efforts to explain to them that the term "spyder" would be more appropriate and that incidentally, it is an American term in origin. That might have pushed her buttons a bit and she was having none of it.
I now have 7 days to get it through it's regular equivalent of the MOT inspection and we are off!
There is a lot of experience in UK of having to get the engine very hot to get passed emissions. Expect lack of mileage during build doesn’t help. Luckily you can do long drives to clear it out, no such allowances in UK.
1999 60k MK2 1.8 5spd donor 2003 40k MK2.5 1.8 5spd (sold and missed badly) "Life is like a book and those that do not travel only read the front cover"
I forgot to post a quick tip when finishing off the windshield and window sections. Someone posted a note about "flaming" the edge or using some solvent to finish it off.
I started using a fine file and then a polishing wheel and that worked well but it was slow going.
I then tried using my 3.5 in. small trimming plane (cheap Stanley plane) with a well honed or new blade, and found that it removed beautifully thin slivers and leaves a very clean finish and is an easy way of planing out any "waves" along the top edge that seem to become more apparent once installed.
All aligned and ready to roll. I haven't driven enough to have noticed an appreciable difference but a couple of things to note.
The first is that my shock bodies are a little fat and when the car is up on stands, they rub on the upper front control arms. A little reading later I learned that the Exocet deals with this exact issue and has instructions to cut out that top section and they provide a "banana bracket" to bolt on in its place, thereby providing additional clearance in this exact spot.
The second is that the tie rod ends are now very close to the brake rotors. I was a little concerned so I did some more reading and learned that this is not uncommon (especially with BBKs). The consensus seems to be to grind off some material from the tie rod end, especially on non-OEM which can be a little chunkier.