How high are the rear light mounting points sitting? Worth considering now mate. Too low and its an IVA fail, do you have adjustable coilovers you can raise to meet the test requirements?
Hee Hee..Hammy, James is in Boston, Massachusetts, so won't be subject to our IVA. That said, I don't know what the lighting requirements are for the test he has to submit his build to (I believe they vary state to state) so it's certainly him worth taking on board your advice anyway. James, as regards present ride height, what is the size and profile of the donor tyres you have fitted at the moment?
Thanks guys, I adjusted the coilovers and am now at 4.5" which is only 1" below stock. The wheels on there are 14" with well worn 185/60 14 tires so the final ride height should be fine with bigger wheels and taller tires to fill those wheel wells properly.
While we don't have IVA this end we do have a DOT (Department of Transportation) which means the vehicle can only be modified 2"+/- from stock (no problem there) As for the rear lights, they have to be DOT approved, which means temporarily putting on some of those square trailer/jeep lights that do indicator, braking and reverse all in one.
Question: Is there a specified torque for the high tensile (10.9 grade) button head set screws and nyloc nuts?
The only noteworthy thing is to put the riverside bulkhead in before the frame bolt since it will interfere. While I applied a bead of seam sealer between the mating surfaces, I also added a bead on the front side as shown. I don't know if this SEM seam sealer is available in the UK but I highly recommend it.
Nothing all that interesting but the front sway bar is in with some adjustable end links. The OEM NB end link length (bolt to bolt) is 4.25" for those that end up buying adjustable end links and need a reference. I've learned that the aim should be to get the sway bar horizontal and 4.25 does the trick in this instance.
Quick note for anyone else doing a LHD to RHD conversion. First of all, you'll need a RHD subframe and steering rack to get the big bits to fit. (done)
You'll also need to do a couple of extra modifications. The brake booster feeds off the intake and with that being moved to the right hand side you won't need the big connecting hardline (the big ugly line hiding left).
The proportioning valve will also need to be moved either vertically or over to the other side since it will interfere with the frame.
Yup, my bracket doesn't have the 90º bend in it but that's fine and new hardlines is something I should do anyway. I've also realized that my throttle cable is now much too long. Anyone have a spare if not I will either have to source a RHD cable or make do with mine in some way.
I notice your VIN number has the powder-coating removed and is very clear. Mine is only about 50 legible with the powder-coating still on. Did you grind this off yourself or was is supplied like this?
Thought I might just use my Dremel to re-etch the original stamping and then clear coat it with some lacquer, bit reluctant to take an abrasive disc to it now.
I job I forgot before putting the body on.
I supply it like this. Like you, Scott, when I had my first chassis for the demonstrator powder-coated, it came back with the VIN virtually illegible and had to use a Dremel engraver to re-etch it. Although it made it readable, it wasn't very neat. So, not wanting to make the same mistake with customers chassis', I had a chat with the powder-coaters and now once they have applied the zinc primer, they then mask off the VIN with heat resistant tape - before applying the coloured topcoat. When the chassis comes back to me, I simply peel off the tape to reveal a well-defined VIN.