I just finished up my headlight covers and realised after the fact that I didn't take any photos which is a shame because I think I came up with a way of doing it that might help others.
So here's an after-the-fact photo that shows my method:
After some mockups I found that the width of the paint on the cover is the same width as my standard electrical tape so I did the following to get a perfectly consistent width.
Apply electrical tape to the outside (yellow tape)
Apply painters tape to the inside, following the electrical tape. I used plastic "sharp edge" tape rather than the paper painters tape because it stretches around curves nicely.
Spray paint the inside edge in multiple light coats to prevent runs
One last thing to be careful of is drilling holes to receive the cover in/on the headlight bucket. I am putting 4 screws (top, bottom and on either side) and three are fine and easy to drill but the outside screws (on either side) are a little tricky.
Since you want to drill horizontal to the cover, if you go too deep you'll pop-out into the bucket (I found out the hard way). So use a small screw on that edge!
Here's a photo of the offending screw hole I'm referring to:
I got very lucky with the paint, it's called "Forest Green" from my local hardware store. I took the disk I cut out for the headlights shopping with me and used that to find a match but I didn't expect to get it so close.
I've been given a temporary waiver on the emissions front. I still have a rejection sticker but have been told to "keep driving" which is exactly what I plan to do once the snow melts. To be clear, it's the evap and EGR readiness that are holding things up and apparently those are notoriously tricky and there's a convoluted set of steps that is supposed to get those cleared.
If anyone has experienced the same thing, please share!
That's the mystery, the only piece I removed was the catch can which on the NB is not a charcoal canister (it is empty and I can blow through it in both directions quite freely). The charcoal canister on NB cars is moved to the rear of the car near the tank and I have retained it along with the assorted hoses and solenoids.
I also removed the cruise control which has a hose going into the intake manifold but I capped that using the rear light rubber grommet method.
I don't have a check engine light and no other codes are present.
Main reason I left everything in place with plan to remove as and when post IVA was to avoid any surprises, glad i did because even leaving vac pipe off the servo initially resulted in cars refusal to turn over for more than a few seconds, lots of head scratching connection of only pipe missing (said vacuum pipe) and everything ran smooth.
Cars in the Workshop Replicar - 1998 Mk2 1.8 donor Honda Civic Coupe SR Discovery TD5
I tried to approach the build the same way and only removed what I was 100% sure would not result in a CEL or other issue. The car runs and drives perfectly with no issues at idle or at speed so I think all my vacuum lines are in the right place but it won't hurt to triple check...