moz
Junior
Posts: 49
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Post by moz on Feb 20, 2018 19:10:24 GMT
Hi ive got a realy spongy brake pedal have bled system twice i was thinking of clamping off each wheel in turn to see if i can isolate the problem but it is all stainless piping and if i crush it with a clamp it may stay crushed any thoughts pls
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 20, 2018 21:05:10 GMT
Twice....is that all?
Seriously get yourself a decent one man bleed kit.
Bleed the furthest caliper from the M/C first.
Ensure the bleed nipples are at the top.
Use the correct procedure.
Check there are no leaks.
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Post by airforceone on Feb 20, 2018 21:05:27 GMT
Andrew
Have you drained the old brake fluid out and put new stuff in. Remember it's been sitting for a long time with that DOT 4 stuff in there so it may need changed.
If you want to isolate one brake at a time you can remove the M10 connection on the caliper and fit a female blanking cap, the caps should be relatively cheap and would save clamping the hoses.
Also the master cylinders for the brakes are individual for front and back. The right hand one and middle are for the brakes, these can be adjusted to put more force on the pistons. I have a really heavy foot and a size 13 shoe so I may have adjusted them to apply slightly less force so i didn't brake them so it may be worth while setting them up for your foot pressure.
After fitting the bigger vented discs on the front I found the front brakes to be much better than the solid discs and tended to bring the car to a stop an awful lot quicker.
As Kiwi mentioned I bought one of those one man bleed kits, they are very good just attach the hose to a tyre and the pressure pushes the fluid out the bleed nipple. I must admit I spent ages originally bleeding the system, way more than twice. When you bleed the rear brakes try jacking the back of the car up so any air in the system should head towards the calipers. I may still have that bleed kit I'm digging out those track rod ends for you so if I come across it I'll chuck it in the box with the other bits.
If you jack the car up at the front and spin the wheels, press the brake and see if you can force the wheel round. When I was bleeding the system I used a pole to apply pressure to the brakes and tried spinning the wheels both front and back this will give an idea of the brake force being applied.
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moz
Junior
Posts: 49
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Post by moz on Feb 20, 2018 22:22:34 GMT
Hi Jason yeah ive got one of those pressure bleeders and itook rear calipers of and put bleed nipples to the top and pumped about a ltr through the pipes so all fresh fluid in there now got lots of air out of the back ones the fronts not so much.As i said bled them with pedal pressure ist not happy with that so got a bleeding kit and did it again thought i got all the air out test drove it not great but strangely much better pedal in reverse.was going to try clamping pipes but with stainless thought i might ruin them. will re bleed tomorrow will look into those blanking caps thanks andrew
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moz
Junior
Posts: 49
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Post by moz on Feb 20, 2018 22:30:36 GMT
sorry while you are on does the cooling fan work from the temp sensor or is it managed via the ecu if it is do you know what temp it is set to come on at pls
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Post by airforceone on Feb 20, 2018 23:15:14 GMT
Temp sensor is controlled from the ECU, I think it is set around the 90 degree mark. The water temp is displayed on the dash, if the car is stationary the temp picks up so just keep an eye on it and you will hear the fan kick in. The temp stays pretty constant when the car is moving and the fan very rarely kicks in due to the way I funneled the air through the rad at the front. It will only really come on if you get stuck in traffic or you have it running whilst stationary.
This temp can be set from the ecu software which you can download from the OMEX website for free.
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moz
Junior
Posts: 49
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Post by moz on Feb 20, 2018 23:35:50 GMT
great thanks
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moz
Junior
Posts: 49
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Post by moz on Feb 24, 2018 17:30:02 GMT
Hi has anyone fitted a rear view camera and screen to replace rear view mirror if such a thing exists.Idont want one just for reversing i want one to run all the time as these motor bike mirrors are a bit limited have seen plenty on ebay but cant realy tell if they are just for reversing thanks andrew
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Post by Stiggy on Feb 25, 2018 17:07:05 GMT
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 25, 2018 22:08:34 GMT
Although it is common practice to clamp off rubber hoses I really don't like doing it, particularly with older hoses. I've seen problems with brakes dragging and locking when flex hoses have collapsed internally. Remember there can be over 200 bar (3000 PSI) to apply the brake but very little pressure to release it. Brake line caps are relatively cheap.
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moz
Junior
Posts: 49
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Post by moz on Feb 25, 2018 22:34:04 GMT
Hi thanks for the replies as far as i can see there are no rubber hoses just stainless flexies from master cyl to caliper so clamping not an option also capping the pipes will isolate the calipers so i dont see the benifit of trying that.I have re bled again and did get some more air out of the rears and now have an improved pedal although ist press is spongy-ish and second firm. As its going for MOT next week i am wondering if a pump of the brake is allowed, i think a bit of bedding in of the pads may well improve the pedal but obviously cant do that as not yet road legal so will just have to see what happens. I was a car mechanic 36yrs ago and we used to check the master cylinders by clamping the flexy from the m/c should give a solid pedal if spongy or creeping them m/c faulty easy test cant do that now unfortunatly unless i suppose capping all pipes at caliper ends hmmm but that wouldnt rule out air trapped in pipes bit of a dilema this
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 26, 2018 4:43:07 GMT
I'm running hard lines from the m/c then short flexis to the calipers.
There is NO sponge in the pedal at all.
I reckon you need to bleed it more I am afraid.
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Post by casesensitive on Feb 28, 2018 21:55:07 GMT
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Post by casesensitive on Mar 1, 2018 10:13:54 GMT
I'm struggling to find the bleed nipple size; I could and should go to the garage the other side of the city to measure them, but Ireland has been crippled by Storm Emma, buried alive under 8cm of snow... It's ridiculous, Nordics and Canadians are surely taking the mick out of us.
From Hispec's website, the Ultralite 4 appears to have M7x1.0 threaded nips, and I'm guessing that the Ford rear calipers which have the same M10 brake fluid inlet have a similar nipple? Any got theirs out on a bench to measure them?
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Post by kiwicanfly on Mar 1, 2018 13:41:51 GMT
reckon I'll order 4 myself this week Remember that the Hi-Specs take two each so that's four plus your rear fords.
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