Post by buildityourself on Oct 11, 2019 20:10:15 GMT
After laying out the Focus loom with most parts in the right location for the engine, the ecu plug was located around the engine bulkhead behind the drivers seat. Initial thoughts were to just locate on the bulkhead, but after consideration that the ecu was mounted inside the Focus, we were not sure how sealed/protected it was from heat etc. Twisting the connector round neatly allows the ECU to be tucked away on the chassis outriggers. The Focus ECU has a plastic cage, so it seems like a good idea to reuse this as it holds it sturdy.
The cage was cut down with a hacksaw to remove the extra protrusions that held the GEM unit in the Focus.
The first idea was to mount the cage onto a plate as is like this.
However when checking against the body panel we realised that due to the tapper of the body there would not be enough height clearance for it to fit here due to the mounting posts. The posts were cut off the bottom of the cage and a collection of spacer/mounting plates cut out to aid mounting.
Some countersunk rivets used to mount the cage to a plate with spacers to allow the lock clips to function.
Using the holes left by the posts then bolts were used to mount this to the plate on the chassis. The standard large arc cut out in the base will mean that the ECU can be removed from the cage and pivoted past the body out through the engine bay should it need to be (hopefully!)
The finished result should hopefully keep away from heat and keep the engine bay clutter free.
Maybe think about post build access. mount it on the underside and access will be possible by removing the internal cabin panel. This is where I have mine.
Thanks, hoping we have thought about post build access as it should be able to be removed still. We will check once the side pod is fitted and am prepared to be proved wrong. Previously considered mounting underneath, but how do you remove the inner panel when its sandwiched between the chassis and body?
My internal panel is not full length, I cut it in two parts. I used m4 rivnuts and stainless m4 dome head bolts to fix the panel. To remove the panel needs the seat to be removed and then the panel can be unbolted and pulled out and down. Not had to do that yet. having to remove the seat is not ideal but a lot less hassle than removing the side pod.
In mine I have the ECU mounted vertical and lengthways in a bracket just behind the panel, I see that your the ECU is horizontal and lengthways.
My loom , from the ECU , runs backward to the engine and forwards to the instrument binnacle, steering column key transponder and to the fuel tank. This means in my setup I cannot pull the ECU and loom rear wards and then remove the ECU, I must first remove the ECU without pulling the loom more than about 10cm. Your loom extensions may be more accommodating.
Post by buildityourself on Nov 8, 2019 20:39:00 GMT
Loom Extension 1
As the engine has been moved from the front of the Focus to the rear of the Sonic7 the loom needs extending in 2 places. This is the first extension on the drivers side at the engine loom to body loom connection.
To tackle this we obtained the same connector blocks (on the bench) with as much wire as could be obtained from another Focus at a scrap yard without dismantling the whole interior. The male and female connectors were soldered and heatshrunk together to make a simple plug and play extension. This would mean that should there be any later loom issues the relevant part of the focus loom could be replaced in the future.
The main connector block was mounted to the chassis outrigger for the front connection and connected up to both the front and rear looms.
I then realised that the other end of the extension would be about a 1/4 of the way up the side pod from the rear, making any future connection issues difficult to access. To avoid this we cut off the connectors from the rear loom and the extension and soldered the extension directly to the rear loom. This was a lot of extra jointing work, but will be more reliable in the long run.
Extension in place ready for later wrapping and securing
Also moved the fuel pump cut out switch and wires from the rear loom to the front extension to break the direct link from the rear loom to another section of loom to the fuel tank. This was possible using spare pins in the connection blocks.
Loom Extension 2
The same initial approach for the second extension for the passenger side was taken, but as the rear loom connection is in the engine bay access will not be an issue so this one can be a true plug and play extension. The side effect was that this needed to be approx 2.5 meter extension. This meant that extra wires were needed as we could not get enough from the extra focus wiring. CBS sell most options for colour coded wire which was used to keep the wires matching as much as possible.
The finished extension ready for testing and wrapping.
Post by buildityourself on Dec 29, 2019 18:33:05 GMT
Steering bearing support panel mk2
After removing the temporarily fitted master cylinders, I decided that I was not happy with the clearance between the steering column and the brake pedal at full travel. The previous position was a compromise between clearance of the column and pedal vs clearance of the column and the chassis support bar. Whilst this is unlikely an issue when the brakes are working correctly it seemed far more sensible to stop and redo this now rather than encounter a possible issue at IVA time. I had now also realised that extra clearance on the chassis bar was possible by dropping the column. Due to certain size 12 feat I had been trying to keep the column as high as possible, but there was actually no issue here. The other reason to remove the panel was that a later post from kiwicanfly was the first time I knew that the bulkhead bearing clamps are supposed to be fitted on the same side of the bulkhead. We had fitted one side on each sandwiching the bulkhead. This meant that when tightened the bearing was not fully clamped so would rattle slightly.
The bearing support panel was previously riveted to the chassis, this time we used rivnuts as if it ever (I hope not) had to be removed in the future drilling out the rivets with everything else fitted would be a nightmare.
Alloy panel marked out
The bulkhead hole had to be be enlarged to allow for the change in column position. This was slightly annoying as the vinyl wrap covering the opening was lost in the process but was sorted with some black paint. The bearing support panel covers this hole so the larger hole will not cause an issue. It does mean that the bearing could be removed in the future though so a bonus here.
The finished replacement panel. Rivnut on the return lip for the brake pipe t piece mounting.
Changed the fold design of the new panel to allow it to be bigger to drop the bearing down but still use the same drilled holes in the main bulkhead.
New bulkhead fitted
Clearance better now as the column is almost half way between the brake and accelerator pedels although not a good angle to see.
Post by buildityourself on Dec 31, 2019 21:40:53 GMT
Clutch and brake pipes
Not quite sure why we hadn't done these earlier, but time now to do some more brake and clutch pipe making.
The clutch pipe was made first, and this is mounted under the chassis rail to keep most of it out of the direct airflow from the radiator.
I remembered why we hadn't done the brake pipes earlier, as without the body it was hard to know where to finish them. Checking on finished cars helped here. The nearside front brake pipe in progress. We had to redo this piece a couple of times as the flares using the old tool were not being consistent. A modern high quality tool was borrowed to produce much better flares. There is a lot of confusing info on brake flares out there, so will try to create separate post about these.
This would be secured with the same rivets as the clutch pipe.
The nearside front pipe joins via a t-piece mounted to the steering column bulkhead.
The feeds from the master cylinder were then formed to connect to the front and rear brake pipes.
Another random bit of progress was to source pipe lagging (35mm) and cut this down to 32mm and secure to the coolant pipes. The theory here is to stop heat being released inside the side pods as these feed into the engine bay.
Post by buildityourself on Jan 1, 2020 19:58:03 GMT
Most built kits ditch the charcoal canister and just vent the tank to atmosphere, but as the tank is in the front the last thing I want is to be breathing in fuel vapours when driving along so wanted to keep the standard sealed setup. This will no doubt also earn bonus points from Greta & friends proving kit car green credentials.
"Part of the car's emissions controls, this charcoal-filled canister's job is to absorb fuel vapor that would otherwise vent out to the atmosphere, causing pollution. Vapors trapped by the charcoal are released back into the engine through the purge valve and then burned."
The first problem is where to mount this. Ideally this would be between the tank and engine, as its extra weight this would be best in the front limiting options. A decision was made to mount this to the left of the tank so a bracket was needed as to get it fitting the original bracket could not be used.
I found the Focus radio brackets were perfect as a strong starting point for this and they were cut down to remove the sharp corners and provide clearance for the mounting bolts.
A kit of supporting parts were cut out from composite panel.
And assembled together with rivets.
The canister was test fitted and was a nice snug fit.
The bracket was secured to a base plate which was secured to the chassis using the tank mounting bolts and brake pipe clamp bolt.
Canister fitted and secured.
The vent pipes and fuel hoses were connected up to the hard line pipes in the bulkhead.
The original fuel filter bracket was cleaned up and powder coated along with a new l bracket, but I forgot to take a picture, so here is the original version.
This was mounted to the bulkhead and connected.
All hoses connected ready for tank final fitting.
The canister and tank all fitted which was nice to see a whole section of the build come together.