Thanks snowbird your exactly right, I crossed my finger and let her run eventual the thermostat opened an the rad fan came on. Still a lot of smoke from the exhaust but its getting less. Going to takle the wiring now, this will be slow progress because of work commitment an upcoming holiday.
Hi Bewgy, I just saw your post saying you're from Colchester, Essex! That's exactly where I am - building it in Alresford! I'm a few months behind you - just picked up the kit, but it's cool that there will be two so close together! Good luck with the build!
I put a post out a while back asking if there was anyone in Essex, now I find one round the corner . How far along are you? You're more than welcome to view the progress of mine in the flesh.
I'm relatively new to the forums, hence why I didn't see your post! We picked up the kit last week and are just about to rivet the floor on, so just started really (minus the stripping down)! Thank you for the offer, if we get stuck I think it will be much better to see one in real life and how you did it, rather than photos/describing. Where abouts in Colchester are you?
1.8 1999 NB -> G-type exocet IVA passed October 2019
I feel like I have the wiring sorted, or at least all in place before I make the wiring tray and shove it all in. I connected the original wiring loom, got the car started then unwrapped the loom. I connected up the fog and hazard switches and proceeded to cut off the loose connectors and strip out the wiring, checking that the car would still start every so often. At first it was daunting but as I worked through the wiring it became easier to figure our roughly what the bits and bobs did. I still have a lot of wiring which could be stripped, but I feel I have pressed my luck enough.
The only problem I encountered was the dash illumination dimmer switch. Somehow I lost this and cut the connector and the dash would not light when I turn the lights on. After looking on the interweb the recommended solution was connecting the grey and red wire (see pic) to earth. This wire was live when the lights were on, but I tried it anyway and it worked!
I have not connected the movement sensor for the air bag and I have left in all the airbag connector wiring, which also goto the seatbelt. Also the aftermarket alarm/immobilizer is still fitted. I tried to start he car without it and it would not start. So I have left it as is.
I have some questions for the forum:
Is it ok to leave the motion sensor off and how to I get rid off the warning light on the dash?
Do I need to connect the airbag leads to the seatbelts?
Do I have to remove the airbag gubbins from the steering wheel?
The SRS is a stand alone system, you can remove the control module and all wiring including seat belt tensioners. The warning light earths through the wiring, so shouldn't illuminate. As long as the drivers airbag is disconnected it is safe but I'm sure what the IVA implications are.
Current build - US AZ 'Old' Sonic 7 kit - 2003 Focus SVT donor. Other recent builds - Furore F1, Arizona Replicar, UK Exocet, UK Sonic 7
A quick update because I have not posted for a while. Have not spent anywhere near as much time as I would have liked on the car, summer holiday and new job have taken up my time. Not to mention two new phones and a loss of many pictures!
But I have been progressing, if at home I will spend an hour in the garage, it has taken a lot of time to get the wiring sorted. I plugged everything in, got the car started then unplugged the loom, unwrapped it all and removed as much of the excess wiring as possible. Then I made a cardboard wiring tray and figured out where the unwrapped loom will run, wrapped and secured it.
The wiring seemed to go from tidy to a mess to tidy again. Yesterday the aluminium plate arrive so I can make the permanent wiring tray removed the wiring tray and I look as mess again ha! The wiring has taken the longest time and I feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. The wiring is my most worrying task.
The firewall is fitted and I am now fitting the gearbox cover. The method that seems to have worked for me is bending and getting to fit as best I can then using rivnuts and long bolts bolting it down and it seems to make the final bends as it is bolted down. So far I have only done the kinked side and will finish the other side tomorrow.
Despite being slow the short time in the garage has worked quite well, stop you getting frustrated, rushing things and making mistake. I will post some pictures of the progress once the gearbox cover is fitted.
Pictures of the build so far, firewall fitted and wiring tray formed. I used 3mm ally for the wiring tray, which make it very solid and I can mounted switches etc on the tray. However it was very tough to bend, I really struggled. In the end I screwed the panel down to the work bench and pushed pulled and beat it into submission. Really annoying when you know that its an 2 minute job with bender. I could have taken it two the local tin basher, but where is the fun in that.
The front looks good but the rear bend the end radius was tighter than the middle which has bowed the metal, as you can see in the pictures. The fit is good and you will only see the bow when the bonnet is open so I am happy with it. I doubt the same thing would have happened with 2mm ally sheet which may have been the way to go.
The fit at between the gearbox cover is not the best, there is about a 2mm gap where you can see the tabs I made for the firewall, I will cut a strip of ally and tidy this up.
I am done with the wiring, not finished but done. The wiring tray is fitted and the wiring secured that runs to the engine and along the ppf to the fuel tank and rear lights. I have isolated the front lights and run the wires forward but not secured them, that still leaves the mass of wiring that you see in the picture, which for now I have carefully placed in the wiring tray :0) I took the easy option and ran the wiring on top of the frame and underneath the bonnet. It is not as neat going through the firewall, it will all be hidden under the bonnet and was much easier to run. I am going to move on from the wiring, it seems to have taken an age and still not finished so I need to take a break. I have got a very old Mk1 radiator and just ordered the bracket from MEV, so the next job will be fitting the rear tank cover and bonnet.
I am done with the wiring, not finished but done. The wiring tray is fitted and the wiring secured that runs to the engine and along the ppf to the fuel tank and rear lights. I have isolated the front lights and run the wires forward but not secured them, that still leaves the mass of wiring that you see in the picture, which for now I have carefully placed in the wiring tray :0) I took the easy option and ran the wiring on top of the frame and underneath the bonnet. It is not as neat as going through the firewall but it will all be hidden but the bonnet and was much easier to run. I am going to move on from the wiring, it seems to have taken an age and still not finished so I need to take a break. I have got a very old Mk1 radiator and just ordered the bracket from MEV, so the next job will be fitting the rear tank cover and bonnet.
The MEV radiator brackets arrived and I was keen to fit up my old Mk1 radiator, to my surprise when I fitted the bracket to the radiator it was short by about 30mm when fitted within the frame. After some research on the forum I saw this was a common problem. So I placed the bonnet to see where the radiator should sit. I looks as though the radiator needs to be centered so the bottom side do not foul the bonnet and as high as possible to allow the bonnet to slide forward so the hinges can be mounted on the chassis rail. Fortunately i found some rivnuts the right size and used them as spacers. It works for now and I will make some stronger spacers later. The radiator is an old clunker from ebay which I am using for fitting, new one is on order for £35.
Make sure that you have enough space at the top for the radiator hose & clamp. I had to mount mine with the bottom of the brackets as close to the bottom rail as possible, just to get the hose on & clamped. I used M6 rivnuts with M6 dome headed bolts to secure.
Net build cost so far £7500 1996 1.8 abs delete & power steering Latest purchase: Dominator 2 projector headlamps, lighting kit, fuel filler hose & mirrors.