|
Post by bornwild on Dec 13, 2017 0:50:39 GMT
Leons Powder Coating. (510) 437-9224 Huge shop, the owner is usually there. He should remember me, as it's probably the only exocet that's been through his shop and he loves cars. Thanks! I'm a little worried now. Does anyone know the state of Exomotive as a company? I've been delayed 5 weeks already and now they're 4-5 days late already with sending me the final invoice and not replying to emails. Might be premature. Any insight appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by phocup on Dec 13, 2017 8:11:49 GMT
I would recommend RC refinishing. They did pretty much all the powder on my build from frame to subframe to control arms to brakes to differential to windshield. Always a good price though could be a bit slow to finish if they're busy. They also do Cerakote.
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Dec 15, 2017 17:25:43 GMT
Paid the final balance and expecting the kit to come in next week. Pretty damn excited. I'll post some pics of what I have as of today, tonight.
Work done so far: - Rebuilt engine using original, refurbished, parts. o Head rebuilt o Bottom end rebuilt - Replaced all bushings with PU equivalents. - Cleaned all the oil/gunk off everything. - Replaced water pump, timing belt and all seals of course.
Just need to get the kit, install the custom brake/fuel lines and the harness and we're good to go. Also, need to work out a windshield+wiper solution for registering the car.
I wish there was an off-the shelf harness I could use for all the lights, side repeaters, horn and wipers with a switch panel. Anyone know of something like this?
The turbo kit will be installed middle of 2018 once I get the SB100. Can't wait.
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Jan 2, 2018 20:04:03 GMT
Finally got the kit on the 29th, just before NYE. It's already at the powder coaters.
Quick question; do I receive a certificate or anything like that separately in the mail? Also, there are no printed instructions; not that they're needed yet but checking just in case.
|
|
|
Post by mattd on Jan 3, 2018 3:56:20 GMT
Origin cert and other stuff came in separate mail for me several weeks before my chassis showed up. Build guide is online, just Google it.
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Jan 3, 2018 23:25:40 GMT
Thanks for the feedback. Just chatted to them; they said they'll ship it in the next few weeks. Picking up the powder coated body on Friday morning. I really should upload some pictures. I'll work on it tonight.
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Jan 19, 2018 18:32:58 GMT
Got a bit of an update. Fitted the chassis. I have one annoying issue though. I'm doing all AN fittings now for the fuel line and the oil lines. First time doing it and I bought a bunch of Russell fittings (oh dear do they get expensive quick...). When I fit the hose ends and tighten the blue swivel part, the whole thing (including the red bit which is supposed to be fixed) can freely rotate around the hose but doesn't pull off. Is this normal? I thought the red part should be stuck tight to the hose.
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Jan 22, 2018 5:06:11 GMT
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Feb 1, 2018 23:56:24 GMT
Has anybody simplified their harness 'properly'? I tried looking for a 'simplified' harness online in the hope someone would have done it. I swear I'd pay $200-300 for an exocet specific harness just to avoid doing the work.
|
|
|
Post by snowbird1 on Feb 2, 2018 14:54:21 GMT
I've always found that stripping all the unnessary stuff out of the harness takes a little time but is very satisfying. This is all the unneeded stuff from my Replicar harness: Are you using the Mazda dash and controls?
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Mar 27, 2018 2:19:36 GMT
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Apr 7, 2018 23:35:41 GMT
Finally fabricated my seat brackets.
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Apr 12, 2018 16:52:48 GMT
Ok so no start without me doing a few things so will need your help! Two things are happening: - No battery priming. The battery does not prime unless I short the F/P and GND pins in the diagnostic port. What could this mean?
- No 12v at starter solenoid single wire little slip on connector. I think this is the signal going from the ignition switch to the starter (via the interlock switch). Any clues? The interlock switch is hooked up so before I go replacing the ignition switch it'd be awesome to troubleshoot some more items.
Thanks for your gracious help!
Nermin
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Apr 17, 2018 0:27:48 GMT
Ok so no start without me doing a few things so will need your help! Two things are happening: - No battery priming. The battery does not prime unless I short the F/P and GND pins in the diagnostic port. What could this mean?
- No 12v at starter solenoid single wire little slip on connector. I think this is the signal going from the ignition switch to the starter (via the interlock switch). Any clues? The interlock switch is hooked up so before I go replacing the ignition switch it'd be awesome to troubleshoot some more items.
Thanks for your gracious help!
Nermin
Okay, so I figured out that the prime isn't supposed to 'prime' without the starter engaging. Now onto discovering why I get no voltage at the starter motor pin. I'll double check continuity from the ignition switch. Do you guys know how the starter grounds? I understand it's through the bell-housing however is it the strap on the drivers side right behind the engine?
|
|
|
Post by bornwild on Apr 18, 2018 3:51:23 GMT
I just now measured the resistance across the ignition switch when set to IGN and it is between 30 and 40 ohms whereas it should read 0 ohms. I will try hot starting tomorrow and report back.
|
|