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Post by roger32849 on Jan 22, 2017 22:53:33 GMT
I actually caught that about 2 minutes after I took that picture in December. This photo was JUST taken....:-)
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Post by h20boynz on Jan 23, 2017 1:06:32 GMT
holy smokes...I've never seen a radiator like that before. Did you bend it somehow or is there some other trickery involved here that I cannot grasp???
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 23, 2017 13:08:40 GMT
I thought the radiator was a little looking strange myself. It looks like it had an unfortunate encounter with a tree or power pole. It is actually an OEM stock radiator from a 2005 Yamaha YZF R1. No trickery, no magic just 100% pure Yamaha weird engineering.
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Post by davej98002 on Jan 23, 2017 19:05:14 GMT
I thought the radiator was a little looking strange myself. It looks like it had an unfortunate encounter with a tree or power pole. It is actually an OEM stock radiator from a 2005 Yamaha YZF R1. No trickery, no magic just 100% pure Yamaha weird engineering. Its one of those engineering wonders that makes no sense till you understand it was curved around the front tire for clearance. Are you going to do a bypass flapper to direct some heat into the cockpit?
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 23, 2017 20:42:06 GMT
Once I get all of the components in place and secured I will install a small split duct from the radiator to each side of the center console. The main radiator exhaust will be in and around the A arm attach points. I will go to the breakers yard to see if I can find a vent flapper. I will probably have to use some pretty creative design work to do this but, riding in this area requires a little help when it comes to spring and fall riding. Having auxiliary heat would come in handy.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by gwnwar on Jan 24, 2017 6:50:08 GMT
Roger could you use something like this hot rod heater on ebay only 9"x10"x5" ebay # 121857535643 make up a T fitting for rad in/out hose. And maybe for the cold season make up some removable side plastic panels for the front half of the cockpit..
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 24, 2017 11:32:38 GMT
The heater is a good idea. That unit is quite compact and could probably throw out a lot of heat on a cold day. My plans call for installing some smoke charcoal colored acrylic panels along the bottom edge of the chassis. I installed painted aluminum panels on my Eco-Exo and they REALLY" keep out the cold. What I have concerns about on the TR1KE is the waste heat from the radiator and dual fans. I have not seen anyone mention this in their builds. (The information might be there, I just have not seen it) I realize there will be heat pouring in, but I am not sure if the mix of ambient air moving through the trike will dilute the waste heat enough to be comfortable. I am in the thought process of installing diverinary panels to have all heat exit the trike either out the sides or bottom.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by davej98002 on Jan 25, 2017 0:49:12 GMT
Heat in the cockpit is nice when its cold out. But on a 85 Deg F day, uh NO. Engine heat from the radiator can kill you quick on a hot day. I do not think it will dilute enough. It must be 100% ducted out, ether under or to the side. Even blowing over the wind screen will roast you on a hot day.
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 25, 2017 4:18:22 GMT
I am in the process of trying to figure out where to vent the waste heat to. More likely out the sides. It isn't necessary to get anything installed just yet. Certainly not for the "BIG inspection. The passenger side will be easy, the driver side will be a little more difficult. I am waiting for a TR1KE owner to add some information on this topic.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by edvb on Jan 25, 2017 21:34:13 GMT
Roger you know I did the downdraft method on my trike and did it like an aircraft cooling system. It has worked extremely well and the radiator temp is spot on in the center and never moves no matter what the temp is outside. This prevents any air from the radiator or radiator opening from hitting my feet keeping me warm on the colder days and cool in the summer.
I did see some earlier Tr1ke posts on this subject and more on the hot side in the Summer time.
I am sure you will come up with the best solution for the problem. You always have heated pants and jacket if needed when it gets real cold:)
I like to keep it simple myself.
Edward
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 26, 2017 12:22:54 GMT
I would like to get this bit of engineering put behind me. It is something I know I will need to address. Without making major changes to what is already in place, something as simple as ducting the waste air through the bottom of the floor pan may be the easiest solution. What I am in the process of doing right now is working on completing the details behind the engine bulkhead. Getting the tanks fitted, installing the fender and securing the wiring, hooking up the reverse system, and routing the fuel lines. I have enough room in the front to route and vent the radiator heat. The question of just where to vent it is still something I need to consider. I like your statement of keeping it simple Eddie...... It will be simple, and probably prototyped in coroplast...just like my air scoop on the Eco-Exo-R.
I will let everyone know how I plan to proceed on venting the heat.... just as soon as I know myself...:-)
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 26, 2017 19:59:14 GMT
I did a little wiring today and have the reverse switch wired and connected to the reverse motor. The wiring is a little rough looking, but just needs to be trimmed and placed inside a loom.
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Post by Stiggy on Jan 27, 2017 10:13:27 GMT
Good work Sir. I would suggest you consider an anti roll bar, trikes do suffer from excess body roll and stiff springs to resist roll makes them less compliant. One guy who was one here tried an ARB but the bends in it were way too far from the mounts so it was not going to work. Not sure what strength you need but try an MX5 rear. With mods to the bends (cherry red) it could be just the ticket. There are on track videos online somewhere and pictures showing body roll on a tR1ke that creates excessive front camber gain and reduction in rear contact patch/traction. Once the mass shifts to one side the inevitable is not far away.
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Post by roger32849 on Jan 27, 2017 13:19:56 GMT
The TR1KE isn't going to be used as a track vehicle. Once I get it legally registered and on the road I plan to do some handling tests. I know I had some handling issues with the Eco-Exo-R when I installed progressive front shocks. I went back to the stock shocks which are quite stiff. I have no problems with the handling and have not revisited the experiment with a softer ride.
The TR1ke has some pretty beefy front shocks installed from the manufacturer. I also installed an aftermarket heavier coil over for the rear shock. I am aware the rear tire keeps perpendicular with the frame during a chassis roll situation causing the potential of uneven tread contact from tire to road surface. I have seen videos of motorcycles equipped with car tires installed (referred to as Darksiding). The tire is actually quite pliable and the entire tread keeps contact with the road surface except in deep low angle turns. I am counting on a few degrees of chassis roll, but not enough to lose traction because of tread contact, but with 180 Horses in the engine, it is enough power to break traction during straight and level jackrabbit accelleration senerios. (aka: doing hole shots) so.... it is worth considering.
When it comes to adding an Anti-roll bar you can bet it will be installed should I find myself in a situation where handling is compromised with normal road driving. I will finish my "normal build, run it through the inspection process, get it insured and on the road, then do some additional handling tests. The installation of an anti-roll bar shouldn't be major engineering, but will need to designed into the overall chassis for proper fitment.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by Stiggy on Jan 27, 2017 15:41:16 GMT
picture taken at road speeds without ARB.
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