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Post by mawdo81 on Dec 3, 2016 15:34:02 GMT
The further forward that joint is the quicker the steering action will be...
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Post by laube on Dec 3, 2016 21:16:14 GMT
Hi Mawdo,
Thanks for the additional input, I moved it apr 1/4" so hope this Wil not affect to much. We will give it a try and if not ok adjust to original setting again.
Iwan
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Post by laube on Dec 4, 2016 16:09:08 GMT
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Post by laube on Dec 4, 2016 16:14:44 GMT
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Post by edvb on Dec 4, 2016 19:43:03 GMT
Looking great Iwan!
How are you planning to mount the Bonnet? Roger did a great job on his, and ended up with a very sturdy install. You probably have the smaller instrument cluster so you can probably go the same route Scott did on his.
On my install I really worked on the ease of maintenance on it. Four presses on the quick release buttons and the Bonnet is off. One Allen head bolt and the whole instrument panel is off. Now the whole front end is open to do any maintenance on it.
Just some thoughts as you go forward:)
Edward
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Post by laube on Dec 4, 2016 20:04:25 GMT
Hi Edward,
Thanks, the only thing missing at the moment is time 😉
Not sure yet on the bonnet, have a couple ideas but first need to fit and try. At least I want the bonnet to be able to remove apart from the instrument cockpit and windscreen. Think that I will use the stainless bracket on the steering column and drill two holes in, attached to the bonnet there will be two pins to slide in to it.
On the inside ( close to the instrument panel ) I will use two quick clamps, when tightening I will pull the bonnet in place. All with the necessary rubber support to prevent vibrations.
Hope this explanation makes any sense, if not you just have to wait a few weeks 😂
Next up will be a solid seat mount and cleaning and painting all Burgman donor parts.
Keep you posted!
Iwan
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Post by roger32849 on Dec 7, 2016 21:14:06 GMT
Iwan:
We were all wondering what became of Anne and his Eco-Exo. Well... we know now. Welcome to the forum and to a very exclusive circle of Eco-mev owners. You own 1 of 12 ever built. The current owner of the project has not manufactured a kit since acquiring the company about 2 years ago. We all had hopes, but nothing has been produced.
By way of introduction, my name is Roger and I live in Worcester Massachusetts USA. I completed my build along with Erik and Edward. We all tossed ideas around and we each came up with a different look to our projects. By far, Edwards build has extensive departures from original design layout. This is especially noticeable in redesign of the bonnet and carbon fiber windscreen. He even installed the radiator up front and made provisions for a set of saddlebags.
The design of my build is close to the original layout. My donor was a 2008 Suzuki Burgman 400. It is different from the early models but very adaptable to the chassis. I added custom side panels, an air scoop (which you will need) and provisions for the large clock set perched on the bonnet. My seat is a Tillet clone and is semi-recumbent. It is upholstered to match the yellow and black paint scheme.
Erik has his Ducatti minimalist build and used many innovative ideas to create his finished product. He recently got his Eco-Exo back from the UK to obtain registration and paperwork. Erik also built a KILLER looking TR1ke. I am also in the progress of a TR1KE build here.
If you need any assistance or want to know how any of us completed our projects please don't be shy..... just ask. We are a pretty friendly group....
Best regards and again.. Welcome to the forum.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by laube on Dec 8, 2016 6:21:40 GMT
Hi Roger,
Thank you for your message, good to see that all members of this forum are still active. Have read trough the threads a number of times, loads of knowledge and willing to help me out that's great!
Must say that up to this stage off the build there were no brain breakers yet. Love to see that everybody implemented his on view on what fits to the kit in his build, no doubt I will do things differently again. Yesterday split the steering mechanism and mounted the colum and steering wheel back again, works great.
Next step is to secure solid base mounting points for all components without damaging the coating, luckily at ur office workshop there is a device to pull threaded cylinders. Principal is similar to the rivets mechanism. This will provide a great solid mount and no need to re-coat or weld to the frame.
Hope you enjoy the tread, will certainly search for your tr1ke this weekend.
Iwan
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Post by laube on Dec 8, 2016 6:24:12 GMT
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Post by erik on Dec 8, 2016 17:30:39 GMT
Good progress!
Rivnuts are used very often in kitcar projects but it does have some downsides. The Rivnut is made of low tensile aluminium or steel to have good deforming capeabilitys and locj itself in a drilled hole. However, the thread inside is of low tensile material as well which does limmit the thread load and they wear out easely if bolted to high torque. An other thing to note is you have to drill large diameter holes to fit the rivnuts in place which is weakening tubes quite a bit. Rivnuts pulled on any angle not perpendicular have a weak bond with the surface (which limits the angles of mounting options quite much.
For this reason I haven't used rivnuts in my tR1ke and Exo. I welded 20-25mm long nuts on the sides of the tubing at any angle preferred to keep the chasis tubes closed or drilled large holes to fit these in and welded around the seam. Thread lenght is maximum and heavy loads (fuel tank, driver seat etc) will hold.
If you do a browse in various tR1ke threads you should notice the fuel tank mounting tabs are underneat the tank, holes drilled on the underside of the chasis to insert the rivnuts and the tank tabs lifted to have the bolts (facing upwards!!) fixed. When the rivnuts wear out (vibrations,too hard tension wearing out the thread during mounting, speed bumps etc) it could be possible the tank will lose and scrape on the tarmac... I know I may offend many builders projects not to agree the use of rivnuts but for me it's a safety issue. Have a browse through my tR1ke thread to see the build it may be of use for your Exo as well. The tR1ke is rated 200% it's costs (for insurance purposes) and the Exo 300%.
kr! Erik
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Post by erik on Dec 8, 2016 17:38:33 GMT
One note to overthink as well: A powdercoated tube, hole drilled and insert fixed may show water along the rivnut base sucked under easely. When the water gets in between the coating and steel it will corrode the steel and ruin the coating. and creep under the coating even more. You should consider to drive her in clean weather only if you go this route.
To avoid an endless discussion wether to use zink coating+powder coat vs powder coat only. Scott's demo Exo-r shows some underneat coating rust on several areas and some chipped of coating.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 8, 2016 20:44:29 GMT
I used a lot of rivnuts in my Rocket build, for any that are inside chassis tubes I used blind rivnuts to minimize the chance of water ingress.
However I would NEVER use a rivnut to fix anything that could be considered a safety item.
Panels to chassis, handbrake gator cover plate, ecu and other electronic component brackets etc. were all fixed with rivnuts.
The main advantage is giving you a thread in a thin tube or plate or weak material thus allowing screws to be used instead of normal rivets and thus allow dissasembly. Or to enable the use of a bolt where you can't get in to use a nut, inside a tube for example.
Nearly every one I used was M4 so was not suited to anything heavy anyway.
I also did stress calcs on tubes with the larger holes required for rivnuts versus those for standard rivets and the difference was negligible.
I was told a good story about someone using rivnuts to hold a seat down, in a race he hit a wall front on, the rivnuts broke free and the seat base rammed against the back of his knees which apperently hurts...........a lot!
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Post by laube on Dec 8, 2016 22:13:58 GMT
Hi Guys,
I agree that from a technical point of view the welded nut construction is stronger and more durable, however since I really setup the project as being a "budget" build using the coated frame as is the rivet nuts are easy to use and for the purpose of holding some plastic plates quit acceptable.
My eco expo project will not be build in to minor detail because the aim is to use it only at nice weather conditions and don't expect to reach high mileage, fun is key.
Advantage of using the rivnuts is that the build is moving fast forward, once all components are in place I will disassemble the trike again and seal and further protect the critical areas.
Some photos to follow during the weekend.
Iwan
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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 8, 2016 23:28:43 GMT
No matter how nice the weather, how low the miliage, how much faster the build and how much it reduces the cost YOU MUST NOT USE RIVNUTS FOR SAFETY CRITICAL ITEMS.
If you do you will not get a certificate and there is no fun to had from a hospital bed!
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Post by laube on Dec 9, 2016 5:52:27 GMT
The rivnuts used will be there to hold the estetic components, all key parts like the fuel tank, coolant bottle, seat, steering mechanism & engine related parts will be welded or bolt together.
Is there anything mentioned specifically in the msva guidelines about rivnuts ?
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