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Post by tojeiro on Sept 26, 2016 11:54:35 GMT
Hey all, expecting to collect my kit in next few weeks.
Having decided to keep my other MX5 until at least next summer I know have issues with dry storage with my kit being built in the garage.
As it is a double garage my thoughts are to build a mezzanine floor on one side (above my MX5) to store the shell until I am ready to drop onto the chassis.
The MX5 will be on SORN so don't need daily access.
If anyone has some time over next couple of weeks could they give me the L x W x H of the shell only so that I can work out a plan.
Thanks
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Post by R2S on Sept 26, 2016 12:16:57 GMT
My first day back in workshop for months and needed to look something up and saw your query
You must remember by body is pre door/boot so approx. 35mm longer (according to Stuart) than those currently being manufactured.
My body dims are
Length 4000mm Width 1750mm Height 850mm (from lower edge of shell to top of hump).
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Post by Deleted on Sept 26, 2016 14:59:20 GMT
Make sure you store the body as it will be when you build the car. GRP has a long curing time, upto 2 years before fully cured. You are going to lose some of the flexibility that a fresh body has and if you flex its natural position it may want to keep its new position later. Stuart can give you further advice on storing the body before fitting. Just a heads up.
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Post by tojeiro on Sept 26, 2016 16:15:19 GMT
Thanks for that. I have seen curing issues before and for that reason was concerned on storing it in the correct and consistent position.
After some initial thought I may try and design a frame (with body supports) that I could hang off the ceiling on a pulley system, that way I can drop it down when needed and can put it back on the same mounts until ready to fit permanently.
Thought it may be useful for safe storage in the future also it I decide to do other work on the running gear over the each winter (almost inevitable)
I'll talk to Stuart regarding best support points for the shell. If all works out I will post some 3D dimensioned plans if others want to build something similar (floor or ceiling frame)
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Post by R2S on Sept 26, 2016 17:31:21 GMT
Mine sat on trestles supported at the top of each wheel arches been there three years this month! Worth repeating though that its not got any cut outs except the bonnet so I'm not expecting it to have flexed in the middle.
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Post by tojeiro on Sept 26, 2016 17:51:37 GMT
My shell will have the doors and boot which gives me more concern on both flex and twist so figured that I might need support at several points.
Plan is to build up the lift system and base using the LxWxH as a general basis and then I can always tweak or add extra supports once I have the shell.
Given work and travel not expecting a superfast build so it could be hanging about the garage for a while.
Considering the frequency that I knock things over I will be happier if it is out of harms way.
Cheers for the input.
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 27, 2016 6:17:58 GMT
Another option might be to hang the body - if I remember right it balances about 14" back from the front of the cockpit opening.
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Post by tojeiro on Dec 1, 2016 21:58:09 GMT
Now that my donor refub is mainly done and kit collection is imminent, I have restarted with shell storage preparation and hope to make so progress this weekend. 1st step was to purchase a electric hoist, 250kg rating so easily strong enough to lift the shell together with a supporting H type frame a bit like Snowbird's. Untitled by Scott Graham, on Flickr Going to mount this hoist in the eaves of the garage to maximise lifting clearance and raise shell all the way to the ceiling. Been to B&Q for some beefy joist hangers to support the cross beam the hoist will hang on. Once I collect my kit I plan to measure and replicate the chassis mounting points on a wooden or steel H frame so that body will be in exact same position whether on or off the car. Thinking of a square tube metal frame that I could design so that the outriggers slide inside each other allowing me to easily withdraw it out though the cockpit area, but then again once the kit arrives I will probably just nail something together so that I can spend more time building the car.
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Post by tojeiro on Dec 3, 2016 23:58:40 GMT
Wife was out for Christmas doo last night so got some garage time Mounted my hoist in the rafters of the garage to maximise lift height and also hide completely when not in use. Was going to use a steel section tube but not had time to get to the local stockist and since not planning on using anywhere near the 250kg capacity, the 2" beam should suffice, its a short 1m span with extra support above the hoist. Untitled by Scott Graham, on Flickr Untitled by Scott Graham, on Flickr The largest hole saw I had was fortunately about 2mm larger than the stop disc so its a perfect fit. Can disappear completely buy also handy like this to keep whatever warmth there is in the garage from disappearing up the open hole.
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Post by R2S on Dec 4, 2016 9:30:58 GMT
How is hoist fixed to wood, bolted thro?
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Post by tojeiro on Dec 4, 2016 15:52:02 GMT
No, there are two 50mm U-clamps that bolt onto the top of the hoist so nothing weakening the beam.
I tested it by standing fully on the hook (4" of the ground HSE police) and the beam never budged with my 85kgs, so reckon it will be fine for the shell.
Mainly short term anyway too get all lined up and wired in, planning to fabricate the shell support in steel tube so will pick up a suitable square steel tube at the same time to swap out the current wooden beam.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Dec 4, 2016 18:51:16 GMT
Once I collect my kit I plan to measure and replicate the chassis mounting points on a wooden or steel H frame so that body will be in exact same position whether on or off the car. I presume your are talking about the the mounting points on the chassis not the points on the shell itself?
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Post by tojeiro on Dec 5, 2016 22:27:01 GMT
Here is the concept I was considering, I did not have any time to spend building anything before colleting my kit this week so did not bother bugging Stuart with dimensions or info. Plan to discuss best method and support points when I speak to him on Friday. 1st design is long term storage support, expecting support would be needed at all shell/chassis contact points. Understand that these are 4 points at hood and two points behind seat/rear bulkhead, uncertain if support at sill area which is normally riveted to floor is required (otherwise would be hanging in mid-air) Long Term Support Next set-up would be a temp support frame used just when trial fixing the shell. Got friends and a couple of interested neighbours that could help lift on and off but would like to use my hoist system so that I can work when I want and not need to wait until people are available. Temp Fitting SupportThis one I planned to make out of sq steel tube so that I can retract and lift out once I have dropped on the chassis. Temp Fitting Support1
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Post by tojeiro on Dec 19, 2016 23:37:23 GMT
So here is final solution after getting the shell home and taking on board Stuart's advice. Beams are 8ft long 4" x 1 1/2", shell is quite light so there was no measurable deflection along the beams. Almost perfect balance thanks to Snowbirds guide on centre of mass, used my engine load balancer to trim it perfectly. You cant see for the foam but I profiled the front and rear arch timbers using my plastic tiling profile guide so that the load is spread fully around the arch. Once lowered I can remove in 4 pieces by just undoing a few screws from the horizontal brackets. I took measurements while temporarily supported on the chassis and then used ceiling mounted ratchet straps front and rear to match these once lifted. Originally was planning to use larger frame but it was clear that any longer beams would also start to bend so this was the simple and lighter solution. With current structure and support points there is actually no droop at rear but front did drawn up about 10mm to get back to original measurement. Added extra some spreader supports wrapped in more foam just to make sure no deformation takes place. So hopefully now out of harms way (except from my head) until I am ready to start fitting. Got 1.5m clearance to bottom of the sill and can stand fully upright underneath. Actually been able to flip the chassis over and fit the floors while working underneath without banging my head so far.
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