Many thanks Ed, for your response. Very helpful as I just left trike yesterday with fabricator for the last leg of mods. Whilst changing the new suspension which was really easy job, I found that there was virtually zero droop and no movement on full bump, I.E if the trike was to be suspended in air the suspension won't move at all. That is not right, so I am hoping the set-up isn't correct.
Re switches, I can't think of a way to make them waterproof. So probably live with it or any suggestions?
Hi, installed and ran about 40 miles on different settings. of 24 clicks, started at 0 (0 being center point, 12 clicks either way) running +9 (soft) and +3 (soft). Still a lot to dial out which hopefully will change in next few weeks. Rear seems soft as I am bouncing but I want a comfort ride as been used to semi auto bike suspension. Front is absorbing a lot of impact and don't feel riding on a plank. Cheers everyone for the help with measurements and info, can't thank enough. Will get some recording stuff soon.
Your springs and shocks are not set correct. You should have noticed one is mounted upsidedown... Springs should be set at minimum pre tension (nut completely at it's lowest setting. The spiring needs to be calculated to this lenght and pressure to have the max available throw and best characteristic what it's designed for. I used progressive wound springs which do get sturdy while cornering and have max confort in staight line. The shock only needs to dampen the bouncing of the spring.The technology is in the spring that's why mt tR1ke needs no torsion bar unlike the latest tR1kes (Torsion bar is a counter effective pipe counter forcing the spring while cornering and adds additional stiffness to the spring with no calculated values. The progressive wound spring is calculated for it's specific task ) mevowners.proboards.com/thread/2141/tr1ke-build-netherlands-erik-4?page=21 Have a look at my tR1ke spring setting calculated, mounted, tested and approved for road and track duty. You can see how I dialed in the front wheels as well. very old fashioned tooling but so effective. Went 120mph without any mods.
The A-arms are Cad designed and should be proven on the demo Exo thus there is no need to build new ones, dial them in and never to be changed again... So if you buy the boots you should be okay and have the joints clean and greased for a long time. Have the springs dailed in by a professional like Hyperpro. Don't risk your life for it is worth the money (about 100euro a spring including math, install testing and rework if needed).Go for progressive wound springs which are ideal for 3wd geometry.
Hi Eric, thank you for your inputs. Having checked the front shocks, I couldn't figure out which spring is mounted upside down. Please can you clarify. I will have to test the new set up and find what works and as you suggested will look for progressive setup. Need to find right people to do it.
Got brake bias installed and lowered the seat. Not happy as fabricator charged 7 hours for the two jobs, new seat mount and full braided lines rerouted to avoid chafing. Well...who likes parting with money. On brighter side, it was fun to dial the brake proportioning valve. Pretty straight, too much front caused front to steer towards left, so I have settled for a point where the rear just about start to fully lock. Its a wilwood unit but no markings to identify %age - front to rear.
Also my fabricator has not been able to correct bump steer. He did some tweaking to A arms and push rod not enough help as when I took trike to 80+ the bump streer was quiet considerable with trike going left and right. No pleasant. The guy is ex Mclaren fabricator for 30 years and currently supports McLaren and Redbull F1 teams. Owns Aston Martin, Daytona Coupe and many..so obviously he knows the works but maybe not best choice for my trike.
I need to find a suspension specialist to dial the front correct without trying to make fresh set of A arms etc.
Nice looking trike. You have done a decent job putting your personal touches to it. You have made it your own. The nose stripe adds a lot of color to the white and black paint scheme. All you need to do is install a tail trunk and go on a long cross country drive. Did you ever seal off the backside of your gauge cluster?
FYI...... Since I installed my tail trunk, I carry an assortment of things, including rain protection for me and the trike. While my gauges are water protected, the rest of the wiring might not fare as well in a downpour. I have a rain suit for me and some sheet plastic to cover the bonnet and seating area in the event the rain is really heavy. So far I haven't needed anything, but it is there if I need it.
When Scott did the manual he suggested the camber be set to a slight amount negative (top of tire in toward chassis) and the same for toe in..... I tried progressive shocks with disasterous results. The shocks provided in the kit were exactly what was required. I have minimal chassis roll, virtually zero bump steer and it tracks straight down the motorway.
Looking at your suspension, your A arms are not horizontal to the ground, they are raised at the chassis and angle downward toward the hub mount. I believe your trike belonged to Scott Turners brother. He was a bit on the husky side and I think he installed longer shocks. Stock length is 13 inches eye to eye. Your A arms should be almost level (unladen) and your shocks should be abut 12.5 with the weight of the trike on the wheels. The shocks are not expensive, but effective.
Edward is the suspension wizzard, however his A arms are custom fabricted and are not factory specs, so his parameters will be different. I had my trike out yesterday. I cruised at 75 MPH and was quite comfortable.... check your shock length.
Many thanks Roger, I have installed leather bags, which go behind the seat. Got two bags, so can take approx 40/50 ltrs luggage. The new shock length was measured to the standard units, I will keep dialing the adjuster re rebound/compression to get the best of what I have. I weigh 72 Kgs so the suspension need to be very sensitive to work with my weight. Nonetheless, I am taking the trike to fabricator for little front adjustments, as I also need to learn how to adjust it - then will keep testing with small increments. Guess that is the only way.
May take a trip to Landsend, approx 600 miles round trip for me. Next week hopefully. All my motorcycle gear is coming handy in rains, I have been on trike in downpour for 50 miles, the front cluster gauge is exposed but it was ok.
I am carrying a portable battery, small spanner, Allen key set and an electric tape in test runs and pretty much same for the long ride. Have ordered a monopod to mount my spare phone to shoot video. Plan to tie monopod with chassis to get better video shot over helmet view. Plan is to start 4/5am Sunday and return by evening. 12-14 hours of driving with minimal breaks. have downloaded a Sat Nav app with options to route via non-motorway route - two reasons - avoid 80/90 MPH temptations and countryside roads are scenic.
Thanks Roger. Upgraded to 3" FIA harness and now in discussion with fabricator for a roll hoop or a full cage to get me on track. I don't want to detract from the sleek/petite look of the trike. Need to be careful on the looks department.
The crowd reaction at Ace Cafe Reunion run was amazing, curious and appreciative. There were a few V8 trikes, a Triking (Moto Guzzi) and few CanAm Spyders from Europe.
I have approached several companies re battery assist to power front wheels, no success yet. Will keep trying. Also looking at reverse gear. Been advised of a system that caravans use, the set up is 35Kgs in total. I don't want to add more than 5Kgs for reverse. So the quest is on.
I would be very interested on what you come up with for a reverse. I have almost always been a Big Biķe rider and really enjoyed the reverse on a Goldwing. It was easy getting out of tight spots and inclined parking....thanks to Honda Motors. The Eco-Exo is light enough to hand push, but reverse would be nice ìn case of a misjudged turn and you need to make a quick maneuver. I know the TR1ke has an optional electric reverse and that would be great to find the space to install something similar... even a tire scrubber would be good.
Today is going to be nice. I am going for a long ride in my Eco. I really enjoy it. I bought a 40 channel handheld CB radio to transfer from my motorcycle to my Eco. I have an in helmet microphone and speakers with a remote push to talk button. It is great when riding with other guys with the same communications stuff. The CB mounts on my Eco's dash panel and is plugged into an accessory socket. No mess no wires to clutter things.
I am having technical problems with my tablet that I use for posting on the forum. So will cut this short.
Just curious about the addition of an electric motor (for assist) on the front wheel?? Is this a possible solution for reverse? There would be a considerable amount of space required for the electrics required to run it. I have lesrned to embrace the simplicity of the Eco-Exo. It goes fast (did 85 MPH in a short burst) it is unique and reliable. The design does not allow for many modifications but if a person is creative, little additions such as a stereo or CB radio might be added.
Hi Roger, have fun on the ride. Some videos will be nice. I am using Tom Tom bandit hooked to a monopod on trike, but too many vibrations. Re comms , I use music from iphone sent to helmet and Sat Nav at same time. Have a remote installed to operate video.
I am looking at this option - ev-propulsion.com/motorcycle-hub-motors.html . Before taking this to my fabricator for a discussion, I am looking for some debate/opinion if there is any chance of doing this to front wheels on my trike. If its a non starter in your opinion then please just let me know.
I am considering a custom hub and spoke wheels, may be 15 inch to accommodate the motor, but these are just fancy thoughts as of now. Slow burn but love to tinker a bit.