Hi, re exhaust hanger on AN400 old model, is it not part of subframe as it looks pretty huge for just being an exhaust support frame? I am thinking of something custom and was thinking if it were to be removed completely as an option?
The muffler hanger is a bit "over done". I am not sure why Suzuki thought they needed such a beefy hanger unless it was ballast. I know my muffler is heavier than most big bike exhausts. I'll bet it tips the scale at 30 pounds or more. Of course the Environmental additions in it make it heavier than most cruise liner anchors.
If you remove the plate, what are you going to replace it with?
Last Edit: May 30, 2016 20:05:04 GMT by roger32849
HI, I couldn't go for suspension measurement as battery is completely discharged. It's been raining a lot here and the trike is outside though covered in waterproof cover. Someone told me that an earth can be caused in rain which would discharge the battery. Had similar problem of battery drain when I got the trike 4 moths back and then the ignition switch gave up completely. AA callout wired it directly and never had battery drain issue. Installed a new ignition switch and been running fine for past 2 months.
I tried to jump start but no good. So put battery on Optimate conditioner, but it is still in charge mode after 12 hours. Lights are working and so is indicator but not enough power to crank the engine. Will try in morning after 24 hour charge on optimiser, if no good will connect wires directly to see if any good.
Been on optimate charger for 24 hours. I am able to start the trike but charger indicates a leak. I am assuming it is the ingition switch again.
I must be a faulty wiring causing repeated ignition switch failures or could it be quality of switch?
Been reading all build threads time and again, most work done by you guys is beyond my capability. Will be asking for help but I think there is charm in learning and loving a machine that keep failing but delivers 100% fun when its running right.
The wiring on mine is a half decent job with exposed loom and connectors everywhere, will seek a professional quote to set it right and assess costs.
You should be able to trace the leak with a multimeter, tackle each circuit in turn checking for current flow. Start at the battery and work your way out till you isolate the circuit that is the issue. The ignition switch shouldn't go as you've described so I fear there is a small short elsewhere...
1.8 with IB5 - Back end too rusty but great learning 2.0 with MTX75 - Donor of choice Last RTR Sonic 7 Chassis final piecing together Body Panels in Bloodhound SSC
Hi, finally got suspension measured. I had planned to do non adjustable but finally ordered adjustable for all 3. Whilst taking off the rear shock absorber, guys at Quantum showed me the brake line which is scarily close to the metal sheet and possibly rubbing it too. Moreover it runs from under the floor and this could be dangerous if something was to hit it. Not happy at all with build quality but some jobs done on the trike are unacceptable from safety perspective.
Will get it seen. Any thoughts on how to route it through?
From what I see in the build manual the brake line runs on top of the floor through the center tunnel and out the left side in the fire wall in the back. I see some have moved it to the left side and run it down the frame and out the back.
Thanks everyone. The saga of electrics, after 70 mile return for suspension measurement I realised one indicator (left rear) not working and the rest blinking very fast due to one bulb failure. Anyways reached home excited about Quantums but now the battery is completely flat and not recharging fully to start the trike. Same bulb blew before too.
Symptoms: Brake light with ignition on position is weak (not fully lit), as soon as brake pedal is pressed the light goes dimmer and weak. Nothing happens when starter button is pressed. Not enough current even for the mileage to appear on speedo.
seems earth connection issues as 2 indicators blew. Thanks will check burgmanusa
So to keep my love for trike alive ordered Tillett seat FIA spec (hoping I can reuse for its intended use) and Quantum suspension. Feel better after another £2K burn. For speed I now have Rossi sticker in front!!!
Also ordered brake proportioning valve and will discuss bump steer with fabricator.
I think with all the info available on the forum you should be able to rectify any problems you have.
Roger and I have detailed many of the problems you are having with a clear solution.
Basic dc electric circuits are easy to understand if you take a week to learn the fundamental's.
A cheap analog or digital multimeter is a must! For a slow drain on the battery you can use the DC amp setting and put the leads in series with the battery. see what the draw is and start disconnecting connectors until you have "0" draw. The last connector you took apart that gives you that "0" reading has something connected to it that is causing the battery draw.
Most of this is easy but requires some study from yourself to succeed.
Post by smokinguitarplayer on Jun 14, 2016 3:10:28 GMT
birubhai. did you use the Suzuki switch assembly's ..as Erik and I have ? If so , I'm surprised you are having water / shorting issues. re: your brake line ... I routed mine along the "left" side (the "driver's side" here in the US ) with my wiring loom ... I will try to find pics of that and post them here.