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Post by davej98002 on May 15, 2017 16:06:56 GMT
You must make sure this type of wiring will pass MOT or any other inspection. If it is not lawful do not do it.
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Post by birubhai on May 17, 2017 9:39:38 GMT
Thanks again Dave, need to find someone to help me on this. Will print the images as reference.
Cheers
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Post by davej98002 on May 17, 2017 17:36:27 GMT
You are very welcome. Everyone can copy them at will. And good luck.
I came up with that simple headlight relay wiring from all my 1960's Chrysler cars CRAP (SODDY) wiring, just about as bad as a few Lucas wired cars I have worked on. They ran a 16 gauge wire from the engine side thru a "Bulkhead Connector" on the firewall to the headlight switch, then back thru that bulkhead connector on a 18 gauge wire to the front headlights. The headlights would glow dimm and get brighter with higher RPM's. By tapping in to the battery's mains, placing a fuse inline, running 12 gauge wire up to the relays and then over to the headlights, the factory 18 gauge wires are now only carrying LOW amps to trigger the relays. I have done this to a few Fiat 124's Mg's, Rovers and Spitfires over the years. Total costs are about $35 USD.
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Post by birubhai on May 19, 2017 21:11:53 GMT
Hi, I have booked an auto electrician for 5th June. So hopefully, will try to sort out electrics for once. He was saying if I want to add any electric points re usb/cigarette socket etc, may buy one but don't want to unnecessarily load electrics.
What is the difference in plugging an Optimate USB socket to battery directly vs a fixed USB/ additional socket going into wiring harness (other than easy of use)? Apologies for naivety of question.
Bit surprised at electrician quote of 130 + VAT for 90 minutes.
Thanks
Babr
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Post by birubhai on Jun 6, 2017 9:31:52 GMT
Hi everyone. Electrics fettled , I hope so. New earth wires installed and a USB point added connected to front fuse board. I haven't taken trike out yet as it is back to heavy rains here. Also installed original windscreen but chopped, using well nuts to secure it.
I have dialed all shocks to hardest setting 12 just to understand difference in driving, is it any better in handling or just bumpy hard ride? Had to cut fuel tank cover as it won't come off due to roll hoop installed. Making small changes and will start riding out soon.
Also found coolant tank near empty, so hoping that cooling fan works all-right.
Best
Babr
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Post by edvb on Jun 6, 2017 13:11:03 GMT
Yes sometimes changing one thing causes problems down the line. When Roger and I did our wiring we added a few extra circuits using 12 gauge wire for both ground and hot's. I also redid the grounds for the main harness when building mine. So far I have had zero problems with anything on the trike so feel pretty good about that.
When I got my front and rear shocks they were dialed in just about perfect so I never had to change any settings. Having digital racing scales to weigh the trike before ordering the shocks helped quite a bit.
I hope everything is working properly now. I would check for any leaks and get that fixed. Keep an eye on the oil after fast rides and you should be all set.
I have not posted much as with no problems I just have been using the trike. I love it even more now and was the best thing I did building it.
Edward
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Post by birubhai on Jun 8, 2017 9:24:45 GMT
Hi Ed,
Good pointer on oil check, mine shows half on the dip stick. Will top up, 10W40 as this is what mentioned on service receipt?
I will be going on daily morning rides as the weather opens up, best way to keep smiling all day long.
Will post videos as been able to install a cam point on top of roll hoop.
Best for now
Babr
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Post by birubhai on Jun 12, 2017 20:42:11 GMT
Hi all, Few updates to trike, took videos but the camera kept tilting due to vibes. So looking for some fix. Did around 50 miles on weekend. Been good this far.
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Post by birubhai on Jun 12, 2017 22:04:07 GMT
Hi, can video link be posted directly here? As not working via insert video option?
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Post by birubhai on Jun 14, 2017 15:58:52 GMT
HI all,
What tire pressure are you running front and rear please. I am at 25 & 28 on cars tires.
Many thanks
Babr
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Post by edvb on Jun 14, 2017 16:59:46 GMT
I run 25 PSI fronts and 36-40 PSI rear.
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Post by edvb on Jun 14, 2017 17:19:40 GMT
Nice Video:)
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Post by birubhai on Jun 20, 2017 5:42:26 GMT
Thanks, ED. Topped up oil and reset tire pressure. Running 30 back as with hard shock setting ride is flat. I added an engine additive last summer that resulted into oil coming out of breather hose possibly due to over filling oil. So topped up just enough to keep levels in check. Hopefully....
Best
Babr
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Post by birubhai on Jun 20, 2017 6:49:06 GMT
Whitewall tire, side profile
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Post by davej98002 on Jun 20, 2017 17:07:57 GMT
Thanks, ED. Topped up oil and reset tire pressure. Running 30 back as with hard shock setting ride is flat. I added an engine additive last summer that resulted into oil coming out of breather hose possibly due to over filling oil. So topped up just enough to keep levels in check. Hopefully.... Best Babr Babr, one of the many oil topics over on BurgmanUSA has been on oil consumption. The Burgman 400 has been known to use a lot of oil when run hard at high RPM's. So a few owners have tried to overfill them when starting out for a day long ride, only to find oil being blown out the breather hose. Too many worry about keeping it at the top of the full line. As long as it is not below the low level it is fine. I'd say that at gas up time, check the oil level every time and top off to the full level. What oil are you using, name brand and grade? I recommend that if doing a lot of high speed riding to use a 15W40 Jaso-MA rated oil like Shell Rotella T5. A 10W40 may burn faster. Some have gone to 20W50 but in Winter time I'd not recommend that. The Burgman 400 does NOT have a wet clutch so just about any oil will work, unlike the engines used in the tR1ke's 1000cc R1 that does have a wet clutch.
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