Hmmm yes maybe could double up as reason to come over and say hi but the garage my brother helps out at has a flaring tool they have offered but no idea what spec or if can do cupronickel until Tuesday when I call round to have a look.
We drop you a line if I may need it, many many things to keep me busy till then.
The oe pipes were metal I removed them without damage and wanted to reuse but its not really an option in my opinion.
From fuel tank using about a foot or two of new rubber hose on the feed and return then flare the new metal pipes running the length of the car then flare at the injector rail end into the oe rubber pipes going into the rail.
So used about 15 feet cupronickel and 3 feet rubber hose.
Bigpaul, low pressure would be an engine on carbs, about 4 psi. The MX5 injected engine is 38-40 psi so high pressure. If you get a leak on the pressured side of the system it will spray across the room so you need good tight connections.
Hi Paul. My friend dropped off his flaring kit. It is the size of a car battery and looks like it was made in the fifties, definitely up to the job. I have also been through a few YouTubes on the perfect double flare so I am hoping to get everything done today if you need to borrow.
Definitely high pressure! That would be a great help, not quite there yet though, everything is pretty much back together, hopefully fitting floors this weekend, will give you a shout after if thats ok?
2 MEV Family!
2011 Road Registered Rocket, 1.8 Focus Zetec, upgrades being considered
Little update started a few jobs , fitted the rear body support took a bit longer than I thought but that was mostly drilling all the holes out.
Took steering column back off to look at tweaking it to get it lined up better going to follow westie tip.
Fitted rubber fuel lines on tank and fitted fuel filter need to finish my metal fuel lines though.
Trimmed up both lower bulkhead panels not going to fit them until finished fuel lines.
Also trimmed up drivers side footwell and passenger side which is 90% done , the passenger side was a pain if I'm honest. Still need to do final fit with the transmission tunnel in place , I've cut out rough gearstick hole in tunnel.
Hopefully this week will mock up the tunnel in place so can then do final trim on passenger footwell.
On hold for a few weeks, kids half term and then unfortunately getting the central heating system replaced new gas pipes, new combi boiler and 7 radiators so work starts in few weeks. I'll be back on it in a month just got to prioritise for a few weeks. Helping the heating engineers a bit may save some £ I hope.
Yes the top bars with the diagonal are fixed welded in. The bottom two bars which attach to the lower subframe needed drilling and bolting at both ends. Looks like a different style than on the previous build threads.
R2S - I would check with Stewart but I think the originals did have the bottom 2 bars (they didn't have the diagonal brace) as they are certainly show in Stewart's original build blog. I'd hate your rear bodywork to collapse if you haven't got them.