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Post by Shane on Jul 27, 2015 17:20:45 GMT
Hi Everyone!
I'm curious to now how other people have labeled things especially the wiring.
I'm trying to come up with the simplest solution so the rebuild wont take much thinking!
Naming every connector with what it connects to may be a little time consuming as i wont know what every connector is without researching each one.
So im thinking a simple number system, where by the loom side will have "1" and then the connector it connects to will have a "1" then 2, 3 , 4 and so on.
I my go even further and add a letter at the begging which indicates where it connects, for example all connectors in the Engine compartment will have an "E" before the number (E1, E2 E18 etc) and behind Dashboard will have a "D" etc.
Will this system work further down the build or is it to crude?
There are going to be soooo many connections i wont know so im just trying to keep it simple. For example i was flicking through the MX5 manual and came across the "Reverse Light Switch" (connected to the gearbox underneath the car) now in reality when i came to unplug it, i would not have known what it was!
Look forward to hearing other peoples ideas
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Post by zeitgeist on Jul 27, 2015 17:38:28 GMT
I haven't started my teardown yet but was thinking along similar lines as you. I plan on using different color tape for each area. Blue for trunk, green undercarriage, yellow engine bay, white interior etc... Then label where the connector was/is at and what it is or connected to if I am not 100% sure what it is. This way when the harness is fully out I can see how it went for routing and generally what was connected and where when placing it back in the Exocet. I plan on using masking tape and marker and maybe various color markers for special issues such as grounds,certain sensors etc. From reading build threads this seems like an area many people have issues with so I am looking at overkill should be good. This should help with the teardown, build and when clearing out unused wires later on.
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Post by Shane on Jul 27, 2015 17:45:10 GMT
Thanks zeitgeist its great to hear some one is thinking the same as me! I find some of the build threads are very overwhelming and kind of knocks my confidence as there are clearly a lot of mechanics/engineers on here which is great but doesn't help my confidence when im seeing what their having/choosing to do! I read somewhere that masking tape will come off over time so im going with these: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151386901855?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Post by mawdo81 on Jul 27, 2015 18:41:17 GMT
All the lovely fluids (fuel, oil, transmission fluid, p/s fluid, brake fluid, penetrating fluid etc) are great solvents I used a brother thermal label printer to great effect...even managed to sell the idea to The Boss on the basis you can get fabric labels as well for the children's school uniform!
There is a lot of value in working out what, even if roughly, you are disconnecting you will learn so much. Also when you come to reconnect it will be a lot easier looking for fr lft gbx than looking for connector e13
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jul 27, 2015 19:34:10 GMT
You could use a simple number system as described if you took a photo of each connector in place with the label number showing.
That way when faced with connecting to a particular socket you find the photo of that socket and then attach the appropriately numbered wire.
Easy with a digital camera.
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Post by jgilbert on Jul 27, 2015 20:50:46 GMT
Hi, having been there, my two penny worth. A extra 10 minutes spent labelling.... no and extra hour spend labelling EVERY connector before you remove the loom is worth 10+ hours trying to sort out the connectors/loom later. Yes use a number system connector1 = connector1, spare = not connected on your car. I even used different coloured tape (engine bay, interior, boot) which in hindsight mean I was apply to lay my loom out approximately were it was mean to go. Remember, a few months down the line you wont remember where the connectors came from. I managed to end up with this But would have been lost if I hadn't labeled every connector.
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Post by dietcoke on Jul 28, 2015 0:06:53 GMT
I went with a standalone harness and am wiring the little bits from scratch (lights, signals)
Saves a lot of headache.
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Post by Shane on Jul 28, 2015 18:41:52 GMT
Jgilbert - thanks for the reply, it looks awesome! While were on the subject of the loom, im looking ahead at the earth points. The build guide reads: "EARTH POINTS. Very important. One at battery to chassis, one to alloy beam near diff, one strap from engine to chassis above exhaust manifold. One multiple earth at pedals, and one above the exhaust on front bulkhead (near engine earth strap) and one at the petrol tank for rear lights/pump." This is very crude, are the earth points already on the kit chassis? Can anyone point me in the direction of a more comprehensive guide/thread that describes the locations of each earth more clearly? Thanks all!
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Post by gwnwar on Jul 29, 2015 2:38:52 GMT
There are like 9-10 ground points. Don't know the number for a '98 non in USA..Check the wire dig for '97 and '99 there is a section on grounds and location.. on MX5 batt to frame and to rear of PPF.. between tail lamps for rear lights.. engine to frame under ext. manifold.. each side of dash with 2 on rt. side.. one behind seat on rear shelf left side.. rear of fuel rail for coil and CAS..front of throttle body. on '99 by each head lamp unit..If it is black it is ground..radio had one..
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jul 29, 2015 3:19:35 GMT
As I see it the exact location of the earth points do not matter, all that is required is that each electrical component has an earth that returns it to the battery to make a complete electrical circuit.
This can be done through the chassis or by taking a wire directly back to the battery.
By earthing through the chassis you cut down the amount of wire that is required.
The disadvantage is that you have to make a good electrical connection at the earth points on the chassis which means removing paint at the earth point.
I initially wired my Rocket using return earth wires rather than use the chassis although I will change that on final assembly.
In theory you could connect each electrical component to an ever increasing size earth wire and run this around the car a few times for no reason, then attach this directly to the battery, or a chassis point elsewhere and everything would still work exactly the same.
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Post by Shane on Jul 29, 2015 7:40:27 GMT
So to confirm Kiwicanfly - If I label every earth I remove from the strip down (which will be a single black wire attached to the donor chassis) all i need to do on the reconnect is to re connect these labeled "earths" anywhere on the kit chassis? If so that's not to bad! Please confirm this
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jul 29, 2015 8:25:40 GMT
You got it.
If a wire (usually black) is attached to the chassis it will be earth. These wires can be attached anywhere on your new chassis.
Ensure the connection is electrically good though and make sure your connection from the battery to the chassis is sufficiently large enough to handle the return current. Remember this connection has to handle the return of ALL the current sent down the live lives.
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Post by mawdo81 on Jul 29, 2015 10:34:32 GMT
From keeping up with the MX5 based builds on here I understand that the MX5 is particularly fussy about the quality of the grounds!
Also ensure that the PPF is grounded to the chassis. The mounting bolts may not cut it given paint/powder etc.
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Post by Shane on Jul 29, 2015 16:19:09 GMT
Thanks so much everyone! I can see how useful this forum is going to be!
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Post by jgilbert on Jul 29, 2015 20:02:16 GMT
Shane, A point on Earths. The MX5 loom/equipment does seem to be sensitive to earths, It's not the position but the quality of the earth. A powder coated chassis offers a poor earth point unless a good contact is made with the parent metal (powder coating offering a good insulation). You can run additional earthing straps from the engine to the chassis and chassis to PPF if you feel inclined. Remember to test the quality of the earth using a multimeter to check resistance.
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