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Post by kiwicanfly on Aug 22, 2015 21:29:00 GMT
More pictures please
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 18, 2015 11:49:26 GMT
So I've made the rear suspension up and the gear box drive shaft exits are about 2 inches forward of the centre line hub to hub. Is this within range for the CV joints or will this cause issues? This is with 24mm spacers on the rear and 12 mm on the front of the gearbox mount. This gives more clearance on the sump side as well If I removed the dog bone link I think I could get closer to centers, but then that would definitely require a custom dog bone. . The other option is to shift the engine back an inch or 2 overall. Options for this would be: - Move mounts - messy, expensive and will result in no powder there, would have to spray :-(
- Make an adapter for the block to chassis mount, probably thick angle, bolted through the existing chassis mount hole and with a hole for engine mount. Need to give this some thought to work out a way of preventing yaw but could also bolt left right through/around the chassis mount
- Make an adapter block for between the engine block and the engine mount, shifting the engine rearwards by the distance between the 2 bolts, or twice that. That would also lower that side of the engine by the height of the adapter, but could also be spaced back up again.
Either way if I do need to move this back then I will make an adaptor for the gear box side and a custom dog link.
What are your thoughts please?
Do I need to worry about 2" misalignment? If I do should I go for option 1,2 or 3? Alternative suggestions welcomed! Please show your reasoning ;-)
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Post by nate78 on Sept 18, 2015 12:23:46 GMT
Is it possible to make a plate that will go between the chassis and engine mount with new holes drilled an inch further back so the engine will be moved back, that way you won't have to repaint and won't have to use spacers to lift the engine up, you probably could take it back the 2 inches that it's misaligned by but an inch is better than 2, Hope that makes sense,
You may have to fabricate a new dog mount too
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Post by Stiggy on Sept 18, 2015 14:54:38 GMT
Could be that the mounts were not welded on accurately at RTR as they did not have any jigs at all for these chassis.
The torsion mount brackets had a dogleg to lift the bolt hole up 20 mm from memory.
Having the drive shafts slightly out of line is not a problem.
Belt end bracket looks higher than I recall, getting the mass low is key if possible. Perhaps slot the bracket hole at the belt end but you need to aim to have the engine level with a spirit level on the head.
Take off the springs and put the shocks back. Then check under full bump and droop to ensure the tri bearings on the shafts are not going to break loose under heavy load.
Important to check that the ends of the tri bearing sockets are exactly equidistant from the chassis rails/bone bolt holes.
The torsion mounts seem to take a set in the car they were taken from and then any slight change in tension direction when re installed and they have been known to crack off.
You could modify the end of the sump slightly but I never found it necessary on the ones I made. Hope this helps.
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Post by carlostheoptimistic on Sept 18, 2015 16:28:08 GMT
Like most engineering, the solution will end up being a compromise. Like Stuart was saying above, the engine needs to be level with the chassis, square with the chassis, the correct distance from each side i.e. the correct distance from each upright/hub and also the gearbox drive shaft exits need to be inline with the hubs. If all of those things can't be achieved together then you have to compromise on something and if the joints on the drive shafts are designed to work with some misalignment then maybe that's what you compromise on i.e. the gearbox drive shaft exits are not exactly inline with the hubs. But also as Stuart said you need to make sure that the ends of the tri bearings don't fall out of the sockets through the full suspension travel and with any movement of the engine under high load.
It's worth spending some time trying different things to get the best position you can without having to refabricate the whole mounting arrangement but you'll probably have to make or modify something in the end and it will probably be a case of what you are happy making/modifying, I ended up making new engine mounts (which are very stiff) which is not for everyone and not what everyone wants. A couple of points to think about are, make sure your suspension is in the correct place when you are looking at the alignment with the gearbox drive shaft exits, I had mine so the bottom wishbones were level (this was for a Rocket, not sure about the Sonic) and also because the two engine mounts (belt side and gearbox side) are not inline i.e. if you put a straight edge across the front of the block they are different distances back, this means that when the engine swings on them i.e. when you are mucking about with the dog bone mount, the engine twists ever so slightly.
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 18, 2015 16:33:00 GMT
Ok, I don't have shocks yet, so looks like that is my next move.
Sounds like misalignment of the shafts is ok as long as they stay together over the range of suspension travel and the misalignment is in the the vertical for-aft plane, ie they are square and central to the chassis?
I'll remove the dog bone link and go from there, once the shocks arrive.
One driver for getting the engine in place was as a datum for the electrics and plumbing. As I'm going to need some slack anyway if I make it 2" to allow for repositioning then any one see any issues with that?
Thanks all
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 19, 2015 8:30:23 GMT
Shocks are 13" bolt centre to bolt centre when fully open, holes are 12mmx30 Springs are 8"x 1.9" 300 lbs rear 200 front or similar to individual pref. Or higher but not lower rates i.e 350 and 225. I've read that Gaz have a 1 inch bump stop that reduces the fully open length by 1 inch so do I need to be looking for 14 inch ones?
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Post by Stiggy on Sept 19, 2015 16:43:28 GMT
the bump stop reduces the fully closed length which I seem to remember was 10"
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Post by p5curly on Oct 3, 2015 17:30:37 GMT
How's the build going
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Post by mawdo81 on Oct 3, 2015 18:30:13 GMT
Slowly, have ordered shocks so that I can sort out the engine placement etc. Whilst I'm waiting for those I have cut the front footwell panels to size and hope to be fitting them in the next week.
Work has been really tough these last few weeks and whilst I love getting in the garage to take my mind off it, I'm also quite drained and don't want to make mistakes etc...not complaining just statement of fact.
Did have another look at the loom the other night as well. Beginning to fear that next summer might be ambitious all told but will keep ploughing away!
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Post by p5curly on Oct 3, 2015 18:53:21 GMT
Keep it up you will love it in the end and get to enjoy it like we do . I am taking Jamie to tamworth tommorow for a spin out
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Post by mawdo81 on Oct 3, 2015 20:01:13 GMT
I'll keep an eye out as we're off to see my sister in Bournville!
Yeah looking forward to getting it on the road but want to enjoy the build as well. ..
Sent from my GT-I8190N using proboards
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Post by kerob1labs on Oct 7, 2015 14:13:25 GMT
What front brakes setup are you using? I'm using RD uprights and I managed to have vented discs and calipers from HighSpec.
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Post by airforceone on Oct 7, 2015 16:00:24 GMT
Have you fitted the hispec discs and caliper.
I have Hispec calipers with 286mm Peugeot 406 vented discs as I couldn't find any other discs that would fit.
What part number are the disc and calipers you have fitted.
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Post by mawdo81 on Oct 7, 2015 18:01:23 GMT
I have rtr steel uprights wth the focus stubs. I was planning on hispec or wilwood etc but no decision yet.
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