Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 16, 2014 9:04:20 GMT
Hi All
Just doing some research on things I would like to do or try when I start building and I was wondering if anyone had looked into the options for the doors. Things like hinge types, fixing points etc. It might just be too much work to get the doors working but would like to know if anyone else has given this some thought.
Thanks
|
|
|
Post by snowbird1 on Oct 16, 2014 14:32:19 GMT
Anything is possible but it would be a lot of work and essentially a redesign of the kit, once you make the door apertures the body is two pieces, that could be interesting.
Although the MEV one piece body can be a challenge to store and handle, it greatly simplifies assembly.
It might be more useful to make the trunk (boot) lid functional but again a lot of work to make a quality job of it. I'm great believer in the KISS principle!
The originals did have working doors but I suspect they where required for the sports car class, I have not seen them used in any video of the car being driven. I notice the original cars also had windscreen wipers, I'm sure they didn't do anything either but were required by the regs.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Oct 16, 2014 17:48:20 GMT
I thought about doing the doors but then looked at how much glass would be left once doors cut out and thought how much less there would be once holes for side exhaust had been cut.
If going down the door route then I think you'd almost need to split the body to stop it stress cracking anyway.
Plus you'd need a door frames (internal and external) on to which to place your hinges.
Final point to consider even if you cut out the doors the spaceframe covers the bottom half of the aperture so all in all not much benefit particularly when car is so low its no problem to step in.
|
|
|
Post by jimmypatch on Oct 17, 2014 8:52:01 GMT
Door hinges could be mounted to Big-head bolts. If you have not seen these before they are awesome and not too expensive. www.bighead.co.uk/I am not putting doors in because I think leaping into your car dukes of Hazard styie' is cool as.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2014 18:09:53 GMT
Some good points raised, I think not having a body to look at makes it easy to miss the obvious. I think I will investigate further when I have the kit but this may be a bigger job than I initially thought.
Next one, how are people covering the interior? Found some photos of a DBR1 tribute where they used what looks like diamond stitched alcantara on the transmission tunnel. It looked great and as the MX5 gearbox is a good size there is alot of aluminium to cover.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Oct 17, 2014 21:06:42 GMT
I'm using the same colour thats on my seats with diamond stitching on whole of transmission tunnel (considering covering the rear bulkhead too but this might be a bit too much). I am also looking to move away from the preformed flat tunnels sides with a curved finish (bit ahead of the game though at this stage bearing in mind where I am with the build).
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Oct 17, 2014 22:07:50 GMT
Don't forget the wood floor mat inserts that were used..
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Oct 18, 2014 6:22:33 GMT
complete with non slip sand tops (already have these planned in and marine ply purchased).
|
|
|
Post by snowbird1 on Oct 18, 2014 15:03:41 GMT
Waiting for the local Lowes to get some new stock of oak faced ply, one 2' X 4' sheet will do it. Not sure about the non-slip finish, I find that I slide my heels along the floor as I drop into the seat.
Planning the diamond stich cover for the tunnel also, at least one of the originals has that.
|
|
|
Post by jimmypatch on Oct 23, 2014 12:37:10 GMT
I spoke to interiorsseating when I picked up my seats last week, they will happily fabricate a transmission tunnel cover. The seats are gorgeous by the way.
|
|
|
Post by jimmypatch on Oct 23, 2014 12:41:35 GMT
On the subject of doors, drop down doors like the BMW Z1 would be cool
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Oct 23, 2014 17:37:16 GMT
did you get the seats in red?
|
|
|
Post by jimmypatch on Oct 24, 2014 22:09:49 GMT
The seats are in brown
|
|
|
Post by Stiggy on Nov 21, 2014 12:46:50 GMT
DBR1 race cars had the doors bolted shut and the drivers simply stood on the seat to get in, much safer then risk having doors fly open I guess. If however you are limited on leg lift height then it is a fairly simple process after securing the body to the chassis then cutting out the panel. The door retains it's shape, the body remains solid but I would strongly recommend that builders using an angle grinder/jig saw on the GRP do so with extreme caution. It would also be prudent to reinforce the door openings with the aid of a Halfords GRP kit together with strips of timber. Once covered in GRP they will form a stiff brace. I suggest stiffeners all around the doors and openings. You can also use the GRP to bond the MX5 lock in to place. The catch would be released from inside. Clever chaps are also encouraged to use the MX5 boot lid hinges instead of the ones shown below, perfect to get the right shut, but you need 2 pairs. The easiest way to mount the doors is to use the surface mount Mini hinges, still available in polished alloy, look fine, are from the right period, and can be painted body colour. Some touch up of the body may be required and an overlap flange around the door opening covered with a strip of foam rubber will close the gap/keep out water. You need to be brave though to carry out what looks like a drastic job, just climb over! If like me you are a bit stiff then treat it as good exercise, stretching every time you get in. Forget the gym!
|
|
|
Post by Stiggy on Nov 21, 2014 15:49:24 GMT
Forgot to mention it is important to keep the hinge pins in line. I noticed that a very expensive DBR1 copy had a weird sag look to the door when opened. This is due to the angel of the leading edge of the door. If fitted as shown above we don't get the droop! That is why the bottom hinge in the picture is positioned to overlap the door gap less than the top one. The angles of the faces on the sets of hinges matches exactly to the curve of the doors. They are sold in sets, top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right.
|
|