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Post by jwagner on Jul 30, 2014 2:39:55 GMT
For some reason I've come up blank in searching the net on how to route and secure my brake and fuel lines. I'm planning on running 3/16" cunifer for the rear brakes and 5/16" double wall steel for the fuel feed and return. But I'm wondering how to fasten 3 lines? FM has a picture of their brake line run along the inside of the square frame rail tube: www.flyinmiata.com/exocet/FMX/index.php?UID=16What to do with the two fuel lines? Build a bracket long enough for all three and screw it into the rail? Advice would be appreciated - I'm sure someone has been here before. thanks, Jim |
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Post by nitram on Jul 30, 2014 13:41:26 GMT
See NITRAM'S BUILD, page 1, 24 Oct 2012.
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jul 30, 2014 13:58:50 GMT
This one? *SNIP* On to the fitting of the fuel and brake pipes. I tried re-bending the donor steel pipes without success so I have decided to go with all new copper. I could not source any of the neat little plastic clips used by some builders; I think Adam took the last ones on the planet. The problem with P clips is that they are a bit bulky and three-pipe’s-worth will not fit on to the 40mm frame. I decided to manufacture some little brackets (bit of a fancy word for some rectangles of metal) from the ubiquitous left-over flooring.  The assembly line.  The finished article.  I believe this method would also be successful for builders using the thicker flexi fuel hoses. *SNIP* |
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Post by jwagner on Aug 23, 2014 22:24:32 GMT
Thanks guys. I've bought the P clips and some steel for the brackets and 5/16" doublewall steel line for the fuel lines. So we're pretty much ready to go but I'm wondering what the best way to connect the rubber hoses from the fuel rail to the hard lines is. The fuel rail to hose connection has a slight flare (I've seen it called a beaded stem) to hold the hose on. What's the best way to do this to my hard lines?
thanks,
Jim
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 24, 2014 2:21:56 GMT
Put a small double flair on end of tube. Remember the center most tube on the fuel tank cover is the supple to the front of the fuel rail.
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Post by jwagner on Oct 2, 2014 14:07:17 GMT
I hate to ask a dumb question but...
How many fuel lines should be run for a NA?
I assumed there was just a fuel and return, but if I'm reading things right, there's also a tank vent line? If so, and given that my twolines are run and the car is back right side up, is there a way to avoid the third line?
thanks,
Jim
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Post by scooby1929 on Oct 2, 2014 16:22:25 GMT
You only need 2 feed and return the other was for the charcoal cannister which is not needed and you just blank it off at the fuel tank
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Post by jwagner on Oct 2, 2014 20:43:21 GMT
Really good to hear that, thanks.
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Post by jwagner on Nov 23, 2014 6:14:37 GMT
The lines are run, we followed Nitram's example pretty much exactly, and now we're plumbing the connections. Borrowed a cheap flare tool from Advance Auto and it mangles the cunifer pretty badly. (worse than the pic shows)  It's not just ugly, but won't work on the fuel lines where they transition to rubber hose and I need a small bubble flare to make sure the hose stays on the hard line. Any suggestions on a flare tool that works well and won't break the bank? It would be even better if it works one-handed under the car so I can get the rear brakes done.  thanks, Jim |
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 23, 2014 6:32:25 GMT
Hope that was a test piece as I don't see a fitting on line behind flare.. You can use a double flare to hold fuel hoses on tubes..Try not flaring as much tube.. Check Harbor Fright for tool.. A couple of wraps of black tape might save tubes. mrjingles705 bracket is a good one to copy nice and neat..
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Post by jwagner on Nov 23, 2014 16:25:50 GMT
George, I'll give the flare tool another shot today with tape. I think the cunifer is soft and maybe has an OD a little bigger than steel line so I may just need a better tool. The lines are run, I think they came out pretty well, although they do cover the harness bolt hole.  |
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Post by jwagner on Dec 8, 2014 3:32:25 GMT
Tried using tape on the cunifer and the flare tool ridges cut right through it. I think I'll have to ante up for a good tool. Looks like the Eastwood is on sale, but need to do the research first.
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Post by jwagner on Mar 23, 2015 3:41:53 GMT
Has anyone else used the Cunifer brake line that Exomotive supplied? What did you use to flare it?
We're starting up where we left off last year and I'm still fighting with flaring the Cunifer/NiCopp lines. I bought a CalVan flare tool set from Amazon because the internet consensus seemed to be that it was a good tool. On both the 3/16" brake line and the 5/16" NiCopp fuel line, the line just slides back in the clamp when I try to flare it. It does work on steel line. The crappy tools mangle the line badly enough that the nut won't fit over the ridges it creates. (pic above)
Any suggestions on a flare tool that won't break the bank and will work on the car since I have the lines run?
thx,
Jim
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Post by miket on Mar 23, 2015 9:37:22 GMT
Jim, I'm in the UK so don't have experience of Exomotive's Cunifer, but I did document all the tools / problems / solutions I hit as a rookie in here if any of it helps: mevowners.proboards.com/thread/6228/flaring-advice-neededThe Serenco Powerhand tool mentioned and linked to in my thread leaves a smooth finish on brake lines, but I don't know about US availability. I guess you want a smart finish and just filing down the ridges wouldn't be sufficient for you. |
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Post by jwagner on Mar 23, 2015 16:58:31 GMT
That was a great thread, thanks. I'm not that concerned about the finish on the brake lines. It will be awkward to file the line down on the rear tee, but I think it's possible. I do need a smooth finish on the fuel line since that will have rubber fuel line hose clamped to it, so I might look for a way to get a barbed fitting on it and just forget flaring it.
This shouldn't be as hard as I'm making it.
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