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Post by edvb on Sept 6, 2015 19:44:51 GMT
Yes, steering wheel size is important. Everyone is different but my setup fits me perfectly with a quick release hub mounted.
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Post by qdos on Sept 11, 2015 12:40:13 GMT
Sorry I've not been on-line on the forum in ages. it's great to see progress being made on another Eco-Exo I'm looking forward to seeing many more instalments of your build.
With regards to size of steering wheel I'll pretty much say the same as Ed has said too.... Don't go for a tiny steering wheel they may look wicked but they do make steering more twitchy and less precise. The demo that Scott had built I rode for a short while with his original wheel but came to steadfast conclusion that it had to go. Pretty much at the first glaringly obvious moment that a new wheel presented itself to me when I was stood in front of the Rally Design stand at the National Kit Car Show at Stoneleigh earlier this year I grabbed a new replacement one and also a removable boss so that I can do some experimenting with different sizes and also get a few in stock for people when they test drive the trike to try out and see what suits them. The removable boss does indeed bring the wheel closer in to the cockpit but being as I'm probably a foot taller than Scott I have the seat much further back than he would drive it.
I've not had a great deal of opportunity to drive the trike of late so I have some more experimentation to do but getting a bigger diameter wheel to that which was originally fitted has made things much nicer to drive. So I'd recommend getting a lend of a few wheels to try out for your own personal preference before spending lots on a wheel. Each of us is built differently in our own human chassis so we'll all be different and we'll all build things slightly different too. Personally I think the removable boss is a good thing to go for as it's also a bit of added security and in my case means I can very quickly change things for a different driver.
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 12, 2015 20:37:21 GMT
OK .. a couple of things. Can you send me your "suggested" steering wheel diameter ...the larger one that you fitted ...I could really use that info.
Also , once I have my "dry build" finished I may tear it down and send the frame / etc. off for powder coating ... I will probably need another set of bushings for the front end ...the plastic/rubber things ...can I buy another set ?
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Post by edvb on Sept 13, 2015 0:51:12 GMT
Fred I have this wheel that is new and only used a few hours that I can sell to you cheap. It is the same diameter that I am using now. IMG_2302 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
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Post by erik on Sept 13, 2015 7:39:14 GMT
......
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Post by erik on Sept 13, 2015 7:51:04 GMT
........
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 15, 2015 13:28:03 GMT
ed .. pm me details on your wheel .. .size and how much etc. thanks FB
This week I will begin working on the steering column fitting etc. and more body panel fitting (front)
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Post by qdos on Sept 17, 2015 12:25:32 GMT
Sorry I've been away again from the workshop but I did measure up the old wheel that was on the orange demonstrator. It's a 250mm diameter wheel and I'd certainly not recommend it at all. I really don't see why anyone would use such a small wheel other than on a Go-kart and I'd really recommend the largest size that you can comfortably sit behind without being an obstacle when you get in and out of your seat. I can't remember what size I've got on the demonstrator right at the moment but next time I'm over at the storage unit where I keep it with the various other vehicles I'll measure it up. Erike's trike is also over there and I'd say that his wheel was probably the best sized so maybe Erik might remember what size that one is......
Ed's certainly looks to be ideal too.
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Post by edvb on Sept 17, 2015 13:05:20 GMT
Both of the wheels I had were 345MM or 13.5" at the widest point. The reason I went with the open top was I lowered my instrument panel as far as I could possibly go so it cut the bottom of the panel off when I was driving.
Everybody's height and instrument panel mounting will be different so my other wheel would probably work fine for them.
I found this diameter to be just about right without being too large for the trike.
Edward
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 17, 2015 19:45:55 GMT
ut an hour ago Quote Message Options SOME QUESTIONS FOR Roger, Ed, Eric , Kelvin and whoever
Can you point me to what you used for 1. front turn signals 2. rear turn signals, brake light , license plate light etc.
front body panel ... how did you mount this ?
front body panel ..there is a "depression" cast into it ... shaped sort of like the cowl from the scooter ... this depressed area causes the front body panel to sit "high" off of the frame ..I'm assuming I cut that area out as needed etc. .... can you confirm this ??
that being said, are the "supplied" headlights any good ?... suggestions on upgrades / replacements .
Also , how did you deal with the careburator intake setup ... ?
I've been rereading all of the threads and can't seem to find this stuff.
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Post by smokinguitarplayer on Sept 18, 2015 2:52:00 GMT
Can someone tell me if I need to cut this "depressed" area out ?
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Post by erik on Sept 18, 2015 5:15:50 GMT
ut an hour ago Quote Message Options SOME QUESTIONS FOR Roger, Ed, Eric , Kelvin and whoever Can you point me to what you used for 1. front turn signals 2. rear turn signals, brake light , license plate light etc. front body panel ... how did you mount this ? front body panel ..there is a "depression" cast into it ... shaped sort of like the cowl from the scooter ... this depressed area causes the front body panel to sit "high" off of the frame ..I'm assuming I cut that area out as needed etc. .... can you confirm this ?? that being said, are the "supplied" headlights any good ?... suggestions on upgrades / replacements . Also , how did you deal with the careburator intake setup ... ? I've been rereading all of the threads and can't seem to find this stuff. You can place anything you like as long as it's street legal, laws may differ from you over here. just chose what matches right to you. The threads are a dump place of pictures and a wealth of info posted to enlighten future builders.
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Post by roger32849 on Sept 18, 2015 8:50:56 GMT
Fred
You will probably end up,buying a couple of steering wheels. I personally had the an NRG wheel that was 345mm but was too tall and blocked my view of the instrument panel. It also was a little close to my legs on the bottom. I eventually bought the Faux-Sparco open top wheel. I sent you the ebay link. I believe it is 310mm. For me it is perfect. My steering is stable, not twitchy, and I can see the instrument panel as well as drive without the bottom of the wheel getting in the way.
Edward and I went in opposite directions when it came to lighting. I bought Drag brand Chrome headlight buckets. They were a little larger than I liked but we're street legal. The end result they were plenty bright enough but gave the appearance of the early 60's bug eyed Austin Sprite. I went back to the OEM black dominator buckets. They have the US spec H-4 bulbs and the glass has a regular magnification lens. They are "E" stamped for European spec so find out what Pennsylvania requirements are. Mine are bright enough for me, but some folks in places like Wisconsin like to attach a laser to the front of their project so they can cut through the night, and melt small dogs and young children with their laser like performance. I would endorse the Adjure brand buckets with HID bulbs. They are expensive but buy the 4.5 inch units and they will look proportionally correct.
I used the Honda Ruckus tail light and turn signals. They are not LED but the incandescent bulbs cast a wider light angle than the modern LED's. It is important to be seen when you are so low. Edward and I struggled a bit in this phase of the build. We had a great deal of personal conversation on the topic. We eventually found what worked for each of us. I went with standard 1157 tail/brake light bulbs and inset my Honda Ruckus light fixture into the GRP fender and had the fixture repainted. I made mounts for the Ruckus signals and put them on the front sharing the headlamp mount. I found a suitable location for the rear.
As far as seating goes, I bought a Tillett Clone go-Kart racing seat. It was $55.00 plus shipping. I sanded the outside and painted it black. The seating area is carpeted and I angled it back to sit semi-recumbent. I also had a color matched seat pad and backrest made. Edward and I also had looooong discussions on seat height we really burned some midnight oil on this one. I would suggest you get your tunnel made and wiring bundle run am make them as low profile as you can, them experiment using a plywood platform. Make sure you have your steering wheel in place and your pedals positioned. This entire geometry is a science unto itself.
I hope this information is helpful Fred. Good luck and happy building.
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by roger32849 on Sept 18, 2015 9:36:30 GMT
Fred:
You are correct on the depression on the hood. I believe it was placed in there for the standard Eco-Exo that used the handlebars. Just make the required cuts so it fits flush. Your instrument cluster will cover it and that will the end of it.
The throttle body is another story. I had to cut about 5 inches from the lower forward section of my fuel tank. I did this right at the centerline. I had a patch panel tig welded. There is a picture in my posting. This notch allows the engine free movement without hitting the tank. I bought some tail pipe repair lengths and Edward gave me a nice K&N conical air filter. I came off of the Throttle body enough to clear the engine then used the rubber 90° air box connector to hold the pipe in place and pointed the filter end downward behind the seat and firewall. (My firewall extends forward abut 3 inches, so I have room to route the intake piping & filter in this manner). It is a two piece intake. I also welded a vacuum pipe connection for crankcase venilation as well as a mounting for the intake air temp sensor. You will also need to weld a brace tab to help hold it into place. The entire piece including welding braces took an out 30 minutes. The fuel tank mod was done at a local blacksmith shop. I do not TIG.
Hopen this is what you are looking for
Roger Worcester, Massachusetts
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Post by qdos on Sept 18, 2015 12:21:11 GMT
Yep the 'depression' is a hangover from the original Eco-Exo which uses the handlebars from the donor bike. You don't need the grp trough so you can cut it where you need to make it clear the frame. I'll have to add this to the list of things to take some photos of when I next go over to the trikes in storage.
Lights are as Erik has said above open to your own personal preferences, generally you can find Motorcycle lights to suit your taste. Headlights are also up to you but the ones supplied are OK. it seems counter intuitive but the darker the environment you are located in the less powerful you want the lights. I'm very rural where I live and can easily see the Milky Way on many nights, if I used a high power lamp I'd blind myself with the back scatter and not see as much as with a low power set up. Conversely in a city environment with lots of streetlights and other vehicles all dazzling you it's a kind of 'Can't beat them join them' game of warfare as to who has the brightest lights wins.
E marks are required on lights fitted to road vehicles in Europe I'm not too sure of the situation in the USA as I think many states have different legislation.
Carburettor.... well again I'll go and take some photos of how it's done on the demonstrator and I'll also take one of Erik's as he's done his differently and more simple.
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