I think I have also managed to find someone who will send me a new pinion cover nut & seal, however I am waiting for a call back from them.
I took the pinion into our engineers at work. Unfortunately their lathe was removed a few months back but they found a new circlip that was slightly thinner & fits ok, apparently this has been known as an issue before. I must have got a slightly defective part, either that or the circlip on my donor pinion was slightly thicker than normal.
Do I need to use thread lock when I put it all back together? If so which is the best type to use. I don’t think I will thread lock the slipper nut.
Just waiting on a call back on the pinion cover/nut & seal now. I have everything crossed
By ringing around steering rack reconditioners I have found someone who supplied me with just the pinion nut. They are amazing in that they haven't charged me a penny. I couldn't believe it when it arrived today by next day courier (for free!). I was even more staggered to find it was a factory sealed brand new ford part stamped with ford etc. Ford apparently can no longer supply the part themselves. Lol. Just waiting for slipper from rtr now. Hopefully I can draw a line under this at the weekend now.
Good to see you are getting on track soon. i don't have a short rack in my Tr1ke because I reconed the original one would be good enough for road use. I didn't realise a trike has a larger radius as a 4 wheeled car and a short rack is a better choice. Not complaining or changing anything here
At last the quick rack is done. Thanks again for your help Nick.
I made this tool this morning for the pinion nut, I made it from an old plasma tv wall bracket as the tubing was the perfect size. I welded it my front sprocket nut, it worked a treat. I have also made a tool for the slipper nut which is a whitworth nut welded to a bolt. This acts like an Allen key.
I have thread locked the tie rod arms to the rack, but I haven't thread locked the pinion nut. The manual suggests locking with a center punch. I think this is known as peening, is any one familiar with this technique. I have never peen'd anything before.
One thing I have noticed is that my slipper nut is very loose now, compared to the old one. Using my tool I can turn it by hand.
Any advise appreciated as always.
Off to look up the price of a new front sprocket nut.
I tought it might be helpful to share details of my ebay sales. All have been sold "Buy It Now" apart from the tail light and indicators, which were my first sales as auctions, & I thought went too cheap. I charged P&P for all of the items apart from a few of the larger ones that were slower to sell. E.g the front wheel. I have been using Hermes for postage as I can drop the items in to any CO-OP shop at my convenience, they are cheap too and have been reliable so far.
When I stripped the bike I kept all of the screws and rubbers. I advertised these with the parts to make them stand out from other sellers. This was advise taken from another forum member and I think it helps.
I have the front suspension, entire frame, clipons, seat, lower/belly fairings, 2 x infill fairings, gear change & hand controls to sell still. I am hoping to make £1500 profit
YAMAHA R1 PARTS SOLD
Part Ebay Sale Price Profit (not including P&P)(after P&P, Ebay & Paypal charges)
Front Mudguard (minor damage)£25.00 £21.35 Front indicators £2.70 £1.90 Tail light £8.62 £6.93 Front fairing (mint) £95.00 £74.38 Rear fairing £85.00 £69.54 Headlight (damaged lugs) £30.00 £25.12 Fuel Tank (minor damage) £100.00 £86.92 Passenger Peg OS £19.00 £15.48 Passenger Peg NS £17.00 £9.40 Rear Indicators £4.00 £2.52 Bubble screen £12.00 £11.61 Lower V fairing £18.00 £14.46 Front Nose Fairing Bracket £28.00 £28.00 Rear Fairing Under Tray / Cover £45.00 £38.92 Pillion Seat £16.00 £12.51 Left hand top fairing £16.00 £13.77 Right hand top fairing £15.00 £12.90 Front Calipers £80.00 £65.11 Left hand Side Fairing £32.00 £28.80 Right hand Side Fairing £40.00 £37.64 Front Wheel, discs, tyre £165.00 £129.52 Front Spindle £15.00 £11.85
You can sell the frame too if its tip top with a V5, you won't need it, if you build the tr1ke to new spec with new parts or look like new, then you will be issued with a new plate with logbook for the vehicle. If however the frame was buggered like mine, I got £15 scrap for it, because it didn't weigh too much :-( maybe fill it with lead :-)
The way it works as far as I'm aware is that if new or almost new parts are used. Parts that look new etc. Then you get a new plate. The only reconditioned part allowed is the engine and gearbox. Keep all receipts for parts purchased just in case the tester needs to verify the claim parts are new etc
If however you decide to use second hand parts with a receipt etc then you qualify for an age related plate so if the bike is on a 2000 year plate like X or V reg for instance then you would get a similar plate.
If you go down the route of making parts, sourcing shit parts, etc just cobbling it together as you see so many kits and wonder how on earth they are road legal then this will give you a Q plate.
A Q plate means you are road legal but will never be able to have another plate on. No private page etc.
I drilled all of the holes in the floor pan with 3mm holes.
I then clamped it into position on the chassis and drilled a 3mm hole through the chassis using the floor pan as a positioning template. After this I have drilled through both with a 5mm drill and I am then cleco'ing as I go to maintain good position.
I am using cobalt jobber bits 135 Deg split head bought off ebay for a few pounds each. So far so good! I am trying to get the worst jobs done first.
I need to make a good job of this as my floors will need to take a lot of weight.... Lol I am planning on using Sikaflex and avdel monobolt rivets every inch on the final fix, I have also bought a tool that will let me de-burr the blind holes. This will be way down the road though after the mock up build.
More questions I am afraid. I tried fitting the brake bias bar today.
I have two questions.
1) Does it matter which way round the bar is fitted? At the moment the shortest end of the bar is pointing towards the clutch pedal.
2) I pressed the gimbal type bush into the middle of the pedal but it comes loose if try and push the bar out by hand. Is this correct or ok or should it of been harder to insert? My pedal is all ready painted too.