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Post by russ69 on Jun 13, 2014 6:21:26 GMT
Hope this works I had all the running gear from an xj6 soda blasted and the painted with a product called por 15 came out in my mind better than powder coating high gloss if you are going to treat parts to a bit of pint look it up got mine form frosts But word of worning if you get it on lid seal of tin it's I tin opener job , but a small tin will go a supprisingly long way any thoughts on side exhaust ! Yet
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Post by R2S on Jun 13, 2014 8:20:45 GMT
Bought paint ages ago, hammered finish light green (no its not the rubbish Hammerite now produce but from a specialist paint company)
Been looking at side exhaust fitted to a D-Type replica the bodywork has been taken away and you can see the whole system from the back of the front wheel arch, not sure i want to do this to mine but does make aid heat loss and make mtce easier. Considering taking car (when its rolling chassis) to exhaust specialist to have therm do it (just depends on finances).
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Post by leahy on Jun 13, 2014 8:40:04 GMT
Do you happen to have any pictures you could post
I don't know but are there Any issues with side exit and iva? Sure you have already thought about it
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Post by R2S on Jun 14, 2014 14:11:11 GMT
Got round to washing off the items that have been soaking in Deox C, varied results but only used at minimum, 1:19, strength. The discs and ca;piers started to oxidise almost straight away as you can see from the photo. Discs have had a liberal coating of grease, all over including braking face, and have been packed away until reassembly. I haven't greased the ca;piers as i will be wire brushing these anyway before applying some form of surface coating. and here is the resultant gunk, I've put a rear lower arm in the solution to see if it has any rust removal left in it. The patches on the upper arms are where paint was still on before dipping (I didn't prep them in any way!).
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Post by russ69 on Aug 1, 2014 12:08:53 GMT
No posts for a bit hope to see an update soon
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Post by R2S on Aug 2, 2014 12:59:29 GMT
Badly damaged achilles tendon trying to play competitive basketball against folk in their 20's (I'm in my 50s) and family holidays resulted in a two month lay off, hoping to get back into the swing next week (although school holidays means the dad taxi is pretty busy most days).
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Post by R2S on Aug 2, 2014 13:15:19 GMT
Russ Just taken a couple of pictures of the rear lower arm, post treatment and a coat of the hammered finished paint.
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Post by russ69 on Aug 2, 2014 19:35:21 GMT
Hope the leg gets better soon know what you mean about dad's taxi have they yet Herd of bank of dad ! Trying to put some picks up of silverstone classic 2 db3 s and 1 db1 s a very good day out o to be loaded
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Post by R2S on Aug 31, 2014 14:43:20 GMT
Had some time yesterday so put a couple of hours in at the workshop, usual experience some good some bad.
The Good After some friendly persuasion (heat, ball joint splitter, hammer and chisel) managed to get both track rod ends off (hubs) so able to remove the power steering rack prior to de powering next time i get to workshop. Both front brake callipers and discs removed, discs are way beyond saving and will probably send callipers to Big Red for reconditioning. Had to remove the flywheel (1800) before I could mount engine on stand simple ten minute job now sorted. The Bad Before applying any heat to the track rod ends I thought I should remove the ABS sensors from the hub carriers; 'mistake', bolt on both units sheared off, no problem i thought I'll remove sensors extract bolts and fit new ones. Sensors were stuck in carrier so liberal amounts of WD40 and a sharp chisel to pry them off ` this didn't work they simply broke off leaving the 'sensor contact' stuck in hub carrier. brilliant (something seems to be telling be to drop the ABS!).
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 1, 2014 7:04:27 GMT
Sensors were stuck in carrier so liberal amounts of WD40 and a sharp chisel to pry them off ` this didn't work they simply broke off leaving the 'sensor contact' stuck in hub carrier. brilliant (something seems to be telling be to drop the ABS!). Not sure if WD40 is the best thing, it is really just a dewaterer with light lubricating qualities. There are penetrating oils that work better, I've used brake fluid when nothing else is available.
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Post by R2S on Oct 16, 2014 21:29:06 GMT
Ok its confession time, spent the first day on the car in months. After trying all ways to get the hammered paint 'into' the sub frames I have called it a day, packed them, and all the suspension, off to the local powder coaters to get them cleaned and painted in the same colour as the chassis (RAL 7038) Will post a photo on their return.
Once pieces are back I will look to fit the SuperPro bush kit that arrived yesterday followed by a set of Gaz Gold Pros (was going to use the Mazda top mounts but waiting for feed back on whether this is a good or bad thing, all views welcome).
My non abs Servo arrived today (Thanks Welshy1) so plan a quick clean up a little paint before fitting to the chassis.
Ran out of time to do anything much with power steering rack (started to remove pipework but its all seized in place and time was running out) this WILL be next job.
All in all a good day, no sheared bolts, damaged fingers or breakages.
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Post by jimmypatch on Oct 17, 2014 8:46:04 GMT
Have fun with the wishbone bushes, I've spent three days trying to get one bush out!!! I've now bought a reciprocating saw to cut the crush tubes then I had to fully remove the wishbone and use my big vice to pop out the bush.
I did buy a gear puller but the strength of the bush actually stripped the thread off of the gear puller. even a blow lamp didnt help (may of made things worse)
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Post by R2S on Oct 17, 2014 10:48:00 GMT
I came across something posted by another MEV builder/owner in 2011 who used these (in US) flickrhivemind.net/Tags/v8roadsters/RecentThey used press to remove old ~ the link may also be useful also to show what you are working against. Wonder if a little adaptation of my hydraulic stone/log splitter will do the trick?
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Post by marmot0 on Oct 17, 2014 17:09:36 GMT
Hi I got all mine out with some tube , sockets and a vice. A bit of heat but not too much helps them out. Thanks
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Post by R2S on Oct 18, 2014 6:34:56 GMT
marmot0, just read this again i think we are talking about different fittings. I am referring to the ball joint that is a metal to metal fit in the outside end of the front upper wishbone. Common practice post powder coating appears to be new rubber and re packing with grease but this is only if metal ball is still serviceable. The ball joint from US is renewable, after first installation, by simplyy screwing out from above but first fitting still requires new to be pressed in. There doesn't appear to be a supplier of ball joints, original or otherwise, in the UK for MX5 although on some threads (PH, MX5Nutz etc) folk appear to have used other alternatives which have the same taper and ball joint length.
Will see how mine come back from powder coating before making a decision.
Despite getting first couple of bushes out using a threaded bar and socket this took simply ages and had potential to damage the edge of the housing. In the end I simply used a blow torch and a quickly rigged up stand so that i could leave torch burning out bush whilst doing something else. Once central tube of bush got hot enough ity simply slid out under gravity, left torch running another couple of minutes and inner (thin walled) tube simply fell out. Removed torch and rubber continued to burn itself out, what was left inside housing i simply removed with wire brush on drill. I think the secret here is to get as much heat as possible into the inner thick tube as my first few attempts didn't work with me worrying about heating the wishbone too much.
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