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Post by R2S on May 16, 2018 22:08:24 GMT
Ok whilst discussing purchases for next phase anyone running Avon ZV7's, looking at 195 65 15 for the wires I bought with the kit.
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Post by R2S on Nov 16, 2018 16:36:51 GMT
As with most things this year I never got round to ordering the four point harnesses, up side is they have come down in price by £35 each.
Was going for red until they sent me photo and red belts are 'bright' red, tonights decision; do I go yellow to match nose and callipers, or green to match body?
Or red and live with fact they are different shade to my seats?
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 16, 2018 18:12:41 GMT
Why not black - I assume you'll have accents of black in the cockpit such as the dash and inside of doors etc.? Or, regarding the yellow, I think Westie66 has yellow harnesses in his - which is the same colour green as your car and with the yellow lipstick if you want to check out that option (though his interior is black)
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Post by R2S on Nov 16, 2018 19:23:26 GMT
A quick chat with my daughter (she is excellent at co-ordinating stuff) and she said black too so I think thats the route to go and black ordered.
btw doors?
as soon as poss after IVA my cars colour will change to a metallic 50's Aston racing green.
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Post by R2S on Nov 17, 2018 19:00:29 GMT
Can I ask what thickness mild steel plate people used to fabricate their chassis to body brackets?
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Post by tojeiro on Nov 17, 2018 21:05:27 GMT
I used 3mm mild steel or stainless plate for body mounting brackets.
For the upper rear ones I bought heavy duty 90deg brackets from B&Q that had a slot so they can be adjusted.
Think 2mm might be a bit light but suppose it depends on the style of bracket.
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 17, 2018 21:16:23 GMT
I make them out of 3mm thick 50x50 angle iron.
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Post by R2S on Nov 27, 2018 13:56:46 GMT
TRS 3" Harnesses in black have arrived, they are very long! interestingly they have cert for use (assume competition) until 2023, hope they last a bit longer than that.
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Post by R2S on Nov 30, 2018 8:38:42 GMT
Having spent so long away from hands on work I've had plenty of time to consider various ways of doing certain jobs and one thing that sprang to mind was induction.
Based on advice from Snowbird1 I had planned to stick with the original air filter box and piping system (S1 saying the manufacturers spent a fortune on developing so why throw away) but this places the box right above the exhaust manifold. This seems a rather negative approach when I have LOADS of space in the nose of the Replicar around the side (near side) of the radiator, beyond the chassis frame.
Have any other builders placed their filter in this region?
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Post by ancsportscars on Nov 30, 2018 9:33:54 GMT
The original induction pipe that runs along the front of the engine has a resonator chamber on its underside. You will probably find it prevents the pipe sitting low enough in the limited space between the rad and engine to prevent it fouling on the underside of the bonnet. It may be possible to remove this resonator box and seal the pipe but I figured that if I'm having to modify the OE pipework, I may as well fit an aftermarket induction kit. I don't know if a MK1 Mx-5 (which, I believe, is what Snowbird used as a donor) has this resonator?
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 30, 2018 14:22:57 GMT
There isn't room for the complete air box - this is what I ended up with: I planned to run a cool air hose up from the LH vent on the nose but never got around to it
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Post by R2S on Nov 30, 2018 14:39:03 GMT
Its a different box on mk2 and as such I cant just cut top off as Id hoped but having seen the induction kits on the market it struck me that I could mount the filter facing forward on the mounts I made for the rad and it would be sitting away from the exhaust directly in the air stream coming through the nose.
Next thing to consider is if I funnel cold air to filter I would expect to have to use a bigger flow filter.
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Post by R2S on Aug 12, 2019 9:16:57 GMT
I'm back After nearly a year 'off' (away from the kit) work is about to recommence, I am now proud owner of shrinker/stretcher and bead roller swager, some ali sheet with a couple of weeks off work coming up. Tyres fitted to the wheels so no excuse when works recommence not to drop it off the axle stands. Still pontificating about seat runners, donor or bespoke (lower by about 35mm), but will make the decision over next couple of weeks. Posted some pictures of headlamp cover fixing options on the ANC/MEV replicar site on F (not yet back up to speed with posting pictures here). Have posted on FB but will ask here, and in tech section, anyone know how many teeth i need on gearbox speedo feed if I have increased tyre circumference by 10%?
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Post by R2S on Sept 10, 2019 22:14:23 GMT
Two days in the workshop
Day 1 - Trying to remember where I'd left off, tidied up the 'temporary' fit of the EVAP canister, now its a permanent fit in its new locations with all pipes sorted. Also fixed the standard air filter housing in its new location, exhaust side of engine bay is now looking very empty (lots of room for a turbo should one be required at a later date). Replaced the original fuel pipe clips with new ones. Cleaned up exhaust manifold, downpipe and cat section. Installed manifold and painted down pipe for install tomorrow. Cat section install on hold pending receipt of M12 nuts (these have been on back order from MX5 Parts since May, will try and source elsewhere).
Day 2 - Spent most of the day making an ali sheet bender, its long enough to bend the full width rear bulkhead so as long as I'm careful with cutting this should look pretty good as one piece particularly if I can get some stiffening beads set into it. Also tidied up the wiring at the rear of the car splitting out battery supply wires which will be going to rear of passenger seat (new location for battery).
Looking to refill all liquids and get car running again before doing much more work with body install.......also need someone to help me lift body so won't be doing this tomorrow.
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Post by R2S on Sept 30, 2019 18:31:37 GMT
Nuts arrived for exhaust and trial fitted to ensure I could still get handbrake cables and battery cables through the opening at the back of the trans tunnel. Turns out on Mk2 exhaust the box after the cat is different to the Mk1, Mk2 is oval and Mk 1 is round so my box is catching on trans tunnel, bit of heat and a persuader should sort.
Standard airbox fitted (quite pleased with location) now working on rear bulkhead.
(Photos to follow as photo bucket isn't uploading at moment)
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