|
Post by R2S on Jan 31, 2014 13:33:58 GMT
was recently talking to another parent outside my children's school and discovered he used to manufacture kit cars! the upshot is he has offered to introduce me to the chaps who do the IVA testing at my nearest centre to get some pre build tips on the do's and don'ts so i can check out whether some of my proposals are worth doing before I IVA.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Feb 24, 2014 12:03:03 GMT
Feb 24, 2014 1:11:28 GMT snowbird1 said: I'm still thinking of using the stock Miata filler neck, cap and vent hidden behind the headrest on the 'aero hump', I've made a bracket that bolts onto the RH upper seat belt mount. Still have to figure how to route the fill pipe about 140 deg to connect to the tank.
Could tank be rotated 180 degrees? this would put filler under 'hump'.
On the subject of the spare and trips abroad i was thinking (dangerous i know) what about carrying just the tyre? This could be squeezed through the frame, to sit above the tank, and solves two problems, spare and what to do with punctured wheel.
|
|
|
Post by biggunz on Feb 24, 2014 12:11:34 GMT
I know people have rotated there tanks on Exocets and assume there would be no problem, just have to modify the brackets I believe
Shaun
|
|
|
Post by np4wicked on Feb 26, 2014 21:16:43 GMT
Could that be construed as having the filler within the cockpit and possible IVA failure. Don' know, just asking!
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Feb 27, 2014 10:02:25 GMT
both my own proposal and that of snowbird 1 is to have the filler in the rear deck either under the hump or under the false boot cover, both of which sit behind the rear cxckpit bulkhead so shouldn't be an issue.
|
|
|
Post by np4wicked on Feb 27, 2014 17:16:04 GMT
When snowbird said, 'cap and vent hidden behind the headrest on the 'aero hump, I took it to be within the cockpit. That's probably ok in US but don't think so in UK.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Feb 27, 2014 21:08:32 GMT
I'm looking to meet with the IVA inspectors well before i put car forward and will ask the question re filler in hump for anyone else thinking of similar placement.
Also happy to ask any other questions folk may want to send me, anyone with a question send it to my messages and I'll post responses to questions under a different thread after I have met with inspectors.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Feb 28, 2014 18:09:49 GMT
Almost got the body off, just the rear subframe bolts to remove, oh and pedals, and then ready to lift body off (front end body and subframe already separated), had a break at lunch and went to look at some 1930/40 MG's (2 MG Ms and a later MG C {I think}) and american pickups that a local guy has restored, stayed there for longer than expected hence a few jobs to complete rather than having body off today.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Mar 3, 2014 16:44:28 GMT
Just seen the pictures of the revised rear end of the red body shell (on piston heads) which is 100% better than the one i have..................bugger!
Any chance of a body swap Stuart? I haven't touched mine yet.
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Mar 9, 2014 12:30:59 GMT
First major milestone achieved some six months later than expected.
Body and running gear have now parted.
Working on my own, biggest problem was putting tower scaffold together; would have made a great 'you've been framed' video as base kept rolling away when i tried to lift in upper pieces, I need a labourer!
Used two chains one for lifting, from front right drivers seat bolt to rear left hand passenger and another as safety from drivers rear left hand to passengers right front. As per experience of others car does seem to balance about this point once you have removed the last two exhaust hangers. Failure to do this resulted in back 'sitting down' until i realised that exhaust was mounted from body and not subframe at this point. Once rubbers cut off it was a piece of cake to raise body and roll subframe out.
Let work begin.
|
|
|
Post by biggunz on Mar 9, 2014 17:19:28 GMT
Good effort! It's a nice milestone to achieve!
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Mar 9, 2014 18:39:25 GMT
Thanks Shaun, just reading your thread and starting to worry as my donor was also fitted with an after market alarm. One of the reasons i took so long in stripping down was to try and make sure i kept a clear log of where it was connected.
|
|
|
Post by biggunz on Mar 9, 2014 21:09:43 GMT
Thanks Shaun, just reading your thread and starting to worry as my donor was also fitted with an after market alarm. One of the reasons i took so long in stripping down was to try and make sure i kept a clear log of where it was connected. I wasn't too worried as I knew it had worked before, but obviously sitting in a box for a long time doesn't do it any good! Out of interest what alarm is yours? If it's the same you may be my saviour!
|
|
|
Post by R2S on Mar 17, 2014 23:46:30 GMT
No new work to report but have today placed order for my seats (a bit ahead of myself i know but thought i should get in early).
Bearing in mind the cabin exposure and lack of heating I am looking to install heated panels in the seats, those from Rimmer Bros, £99 for two seats, look favourite as ones from seat manufacturers are £200 a seat! Anyone else used these kits?
The firm building the seats have created a jig for IVA seats specifically for the Replicar (Stuart got in there first), they are wider than their Cobra (of which they sell quite a number) seats and shaped to fit the cxckpit, of the Replicar, assume these will be on view in the Red body when it appears at shows. (I note Stuart has added a photo of the seats to the Replicar build blog, squab looks narrower in photo than it is, the seats are 2" wider than the Cobra ones they are based on)
They do quite a lot of kit work and had an interior for a Hawk HF3000 Stratos on the bench when i arrived.
|
|
|
Post by gwnwar on Mar 18, 2014 5:37:44 GMT
Check out this heater on USA eBay item # 121076433762 under hot rod car heaters.. item # might work if you just put it in search..It is really a small unit.. A little pricy but should make it toasty in car..better then seat heaters with warm cloths between you and seats..
|
|