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Post by gwnwar on Apr 26, 2017 5:25:34 GMT
The one by the dip stick ran from engine plate between trans and engine to body. So any part of engine to the frame will work.. To the PPF make sure the cable is grounded to PPF clean the bolt hole and around hole same for neg battery to frame.. Use an OHM meter to test/check need 0.00 reading. on all ground places. Another ground you should check is the flat ground connector with 5 or 6 wires to it.. Take it apart and clean each wire in side it.
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Post by R2S on May 15, 2017 17:30:51 GMT
Waiting for parts so thought Id crack on with a couple of small jobs, remembered to ensure bleed valve in thermostat placed at top, easy to get this wrong and end up with air locks. Measured out and created square hole for accelerator cable And decided on location for charcoal canister albeit permanent fixing will be somewhat better! Anti roll bars now fitted, and all fuel pipes in place, although I ran out of fixing clips! Temporary steering rack bolts all now replaced and stiffeners from pedals to chassis sorted. All in all a good day and getting closer to the dreaded electrics!
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Post by R2S on Jun 9, 2017 13:48:29 GMT
Clutch master cylinder repair kit finally arrived from MX5Parts and had an hour this morning to fit, pleased to say my lack of clutch pedal is no more, new seals have done the trick. Had the pleasure of the slow bleed but this time used low pressure air supply to force fluid through system and soon had all air removed.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 10, 2017 14:50:13 GMT
Do you know that the charcoal canister can be deleted. I have done it on Westy and the Replicar. Makes the plumbing a little easier.
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Post by R2S on Jun 10, 2017 21:06:41 GMT
Do you know that the charcoal canister can be deleted. I have done it on Westy and the Replicar. Makes the plumbing a little easier. Yep: another one of those shall I shan't I moments on the canister but after some discussion with snowbird1 many moons ago I decided Id keep it. Bracket now complete (just needs tidying) and pipework from tank vent to canister is next job (all clips are in place) then its time to start thinking about wiring up for a trial start. Trying hard to make sure non of pipework interferes with location of fusebox with most likely place for it being passenger side of clutch master engine side of bulkhead. I also have new trans tunnel cut out but have yet to build my bender (found some angle which looks ideal in the old shed this morning) so its still a flat piece of sheet. I have a number of work packages on the replicar on the go just need to start finishing them but would like to trial fit body in next couple of weeks.
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Post by R2S on Jun 14, 2017 10:30:12 GMT
westie66 sent you a PM.
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Post by R2S on Jul 8, 2017 22:08:18 GMT
Excellent timing this restriction on how far back we can edit, tried to fix (replace) PB photos but cant due to time limit!
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Post by R2S on Jul 21, 2017 7:11:24 GMT
Thanks to admin for unlocking edit facility, all photo bucket photos I'd uploaded previously now replaced (cant do anything about those uploaded by others though).
No time on the car exam taxiing, holidays, lots of grass to cut etc but hope to get back into workshop in August.
Should mention despite a late arrival at Curborough on the 15th (BT Engineer turned up at home just as I was about to leave at 08:00) enjoyed the afternoon and drive home in the black pig (fog! on way down!).
Threats of an award next year for longest build of a MEV so really must get a move on.
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Post by R2S on Aug 29, 2017 17:13:44 GMT
Well after weeks (actually months) I managed to get some work done despite a broken finger (under strict instruction from hospital no manual work for 6 weeks, three weeks in and cant help myself). Thought I'd pick a simple job and despite some guidance at Curborough on how simple it was to remove air bag charge I made it more complicated. I didn't realise the plastic cover simply pushed off as it looked screwed (from underside) on. So I drilled (low speed dont want any spark) out the rivets holding the rubber cover on to the frame. This is a waste of time so in desperation I prised off the white cover and there they were the four nuts holding the charge in place. If doing this again I wouldnt drill out the rivets or remove the bag Id simply prise off the white cover, undo four nuts, remove charge and reinstall nuts. As it is I now have to re-rivet rubber cover to frame (they are large bore rivets!). When you take centre boss off this is what back looks like albeit you will have airbag and charge in place Prise off plastic cover when you lift it off you will expose four small nuts. With nuts removed you can lift off charge As noted I removed bag too so here it is showing fixings and the nuts.
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Post by R2S on Sept 9, 2017 21:06:46 GMT
Had a few hours on the car today and have reached the point I was dreading, installing electrics to attempt a start. Decided to check all the labelling and replace any that were loose and in danger of falling off. Whilst in the process of doing this I also removed a number of electrical items I'd boxed and heres where the problems started. So long since I stripped the donor I came across this set of relays which I have no idea where they came from or what they do, can anyone help? Have also decided on position of engine fuse box This really is quite daunting Couple of labels have come off these blocks (sorry about picture quality) anyone know what they are?
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Post by ancsportscars on Sept 10, 2017 11:13:20 GMT
Gary, I reckon the bank of relays were originally located next to the fuse box which you are presently mounting. So look for three connectors in that area of your loom that match. (on my donor there are two white and 1 black connector)
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2017 16:34:08 GMT
If you can lay the loom onto the car it will start to make sense, the engine loom will drop the connections close to the plugs so it will come together. Get the left and right side laid out, the engine has it's own loom so is pretty easy, all the rear lights are after a large connector block. Think I started with the binnacle connectors for the dash and worked from there. I do remember that all the thick blue wires are from the heater controls.
Good luck
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Post by R2S on Sept 10, 2017 17:04:03 GMT
Its the aftermarket alarm/immobiliser thats worrying me, usual prevarication; do I take it out or leave it in? I know nothing about electrics but can read a wiring diagram so other than the time implication removal might be the way to go............or I could try to start it with it on?
I did lay the various looms out, one for rear lights etc just left on bench, one that plugs into engine controls (crank sensor, exhaust, injection etc) fitted as is the battery to fuse box, alternator and starter.
When re-labelling it struck me how much is no longer required on my build, setting aside things like wipers, heater, door mirrors etc I also have no abs, and no power steering.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 10, 2017 17:53:55 GMT
I got the engine running before I tackled removing the unwanted circuits, a lesson a learnt on a previous build when i turned the key for the first time and just got smoke from the loom.
For the aftermarket bits it depends on how they are connected, I removed an alarm and immobilizer but it was obvious how to reconnect original wiring.
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 10, 2017 18:54:12 GMT
Get it running first.. Then trim the harness.. You should have 10 ground spots IIRC.. Find and attach them first. You have a few multi wire connectors click them open and clean each wire inside unit.. Check each made ground with an OHM meter looking for 0.00 reading.. If you don't have a multi meter and test light get them. They will make life easier and end the guess work.. Hook up battery neg cable only when testing.. Main neg. points battery to frame, rear of PPF, engine to frame under ext. manifold to frame, some year cars intake side to frame.. UK had 2 different body styles in '98 and wiring.. Get a wire print out.. Go slow.. Walk away if you have to.. Ask questions..
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