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Post by R2S on Apr 15, 2017 10:23:57 GMT
Templates made for revised tunnel just need to find someone local who can put some nice creases/bends in the sheet. And in the spirit of two steps forward and one back. Wasnt happy with the routing of the clutch line (Id retained original metal at slave and flexi above with short new stretch of copper), made routing of new fuel lines difficult (it completely filled the space to side of bell housing above slave cylinder) so decided to tidy it up by removing the original metal 'loop' and repositioning bracket at bell housing. Was really pleased with result so on to five minute job of filling fluid and bleeding system and I simply couldn't get all the air out, tried force bleeding (filling fluid user pressure) tried trad foot pump, tried leaving for a couple of hours no success. Probably go back tonight for an hour and see if I can resolve. Strange thing is when I depress clutch pedal I get travel at slave but then even with pedal still depressed slave shaft slides back to disengage, if it is air in system I wouldn't expect slave shaft to engage clutch at all, or only slightly!
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Post by R2S on Apr 15, 2017 17:22:56 GMT
No joy with clutch tried using old slave cylinder same problem so looks like I may have dud master.
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Post by p5curly on Apr 15, 2017 18:56:48 GMT
Is there adjustment on the pedals a I know there is on the brake pedal
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 15, 2017 22:10:20 GMT
If you have bleed the whole system, have 10mm free play at top of clutch pedal, no leaks under the rubber boot on clutch slave cly/rod, rubber hose dosen't have a bubble in it, and slave rod moves back to aft position when holding pedal to floor I would be changing the master.. You may want to get a flex clutch slave hose for between hard line or master and slave cly..
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Post by R2S on Apr 19, 2017 18:48:21 GMT
If you have bleed the whole system, have 10mm free play at top of clutch pedal, no leaks under the rubber boot on clutch slave cly/rod, rubber hose dosen't have a bubble in it, and slave rod moves back to aft position when holding pedal to floor I would be changing the master.. You may want to get a flex clutch slave hose for between hard line or master and slave cly.. Hi Original flex pipe retained, will check everything again this Friday and if no joy will get a refurb kit for master cylinder (would have bought new cylinder from MX5parts but they have no stock!).
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 20, 2017 6:09:25 GMT
If you rebuild master bench bleed it. I like to start bleeding first at the master and then work my way down to the slave at each joint..
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Post by p5curly on Apr 20, 2017 9:09:27 GMT
Are you coming to stoneliegh
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Post by R2S on Apr 20, 2017 18:24:36 GMT
Are you coming to stoneliegh Not sure at moment as I have to be in Manchester over the weekend but not sure which days! Will drop you a text later in week.
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Post by R2S on Apr 20, 2017 18:29:47 GMT
Some good progress today, fuel lines all but sorted, decided to do away with the short length donor rubber pipes and connect in one piece for feed and one piece for return but this left me short of pipe so additional length ordered for tomorrow.
Had a final go with existing clutch master after grinding piece out of pedal (couldn't get full travel as pedal was contacting chassis) still no joy so repair kit ordered from MX5 parts but these are on back order.
Started brackets for fuel and brake lines which will be secured using rivets that hold floor in place (therefore no additional drilling required), will post photos tomorrow once complete.
All in all a positive half day.
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Post by p5curly on Apr 20, 2017 18:46:29 GMT
I will be there Monday it would be good to catch up and chat about your build
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Post by stevednorris on Apr 21, 2017 7:24:35 GMT
I had the same problem with bleeding my clutch. I ended out trying an old motorbike trick, held the clutch pedal fully down for about 24 hours to allow any air bubbles to escape naturally, worked for me, might be worth a go.
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Post by R2S on Apr 21, 2017 10:15:19 GMT
I had the same problem with bleeding my clutch. I ended out trying an old motorbike trick, held the clutch pedal fully down for about 24 hours to allow any air bubbles to escape naturally, worked for me, might be worth a go. Yep having looked through everyone else builds tried all suggestions but I'm now pretty sure I have master cylinder problem (pedal wasnt very good before I did pipe rerouting but I put this down to limited pedal travel). Will just have to wait for kit from MX5parts, plenty other things to be getting on with in the interim
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Post by R2S on Apr 23, 2017 21:40:56 GMT
The earth bonding straps, ppf and engine next to dip stick, were both perished on my donor, where have others connected these to on their subframes/chassis?
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Post by R2S on Apr 25, 2017 18:27:09 GMT
The earth bonding straps, ppf and engine next to dip stick, were both perished on my donor, where have others connected these to on their subframes/chassis? After a little light reading Ive discovered that in the donor the earth strap to the ppf comes from the boot (battery negative to boot body then ppf) so not a problem on my build as battery is behind passenger seat (fairly short run) still havent found where strap next to dip stick goes.
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Post by p5curly on Apr 25, 2017 18:30:04 GMT
Strap next to dipstick just goes onto the Replicar frame
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