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Post by drbrian on Feb 2, 2014 5:07:46 GMT
6 hours to get one side of the suspension on, the upper rear a-arms were welded wrong and I had to really work to get it all together, which I did. The adjustiable suspention threaded tubes (long ones) were not tapped right so I had to cut them in half to get them to close over the supension rod ends. What a pain, I think I will order new ones later from Pete. It moves up and down very easily no creaking, I must have put at least 50 hours into just the suspension. They need to shift toward pre-made bushings kit the money saving going with these cheap bushing is not worth the time needed to get the suspension to move smoothly.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 2, 2014 5:30:37 GMT
I found that if I fitted the lower rearmost suspension joint (arm to chassis) last it all went together a lot easier on my Rocket.
If I tried to put the arms on first then the upright there was no chance due to misalignment at the top of the upright.
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Post by drbrian on Feb 4, 2014 0:34:11 GMT
Here are the tie rod ends or steering linkage extensions for my sonic 7 steering rack.
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Post by drbrian on Feb 4, 2014 0:36:42 GMT
Can some one help me by telling me the lock nuts that I need for the upper and lower ball joints on the sonic 7. I think top is a #12 by 1.5 but the bottom is smaller and I don't know the number. Also I need to know the lock nut for the steering linkage ball joint.
Help please Brian
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Post by kiwicanfly on Feb 4, 2014 3:59:54 GMT
Here are the tie rod ends or steering linkage extensions for my sonic 7 steering rack. Hi Brian, How do they work and who supplied them?
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Post by robbiggs on Feb 9, 2014 23:18:21 GMT
I am in Houston Texas (Sugar Land) Hi Do you have any images of the front hub set up for this type of upright? For some time now I have been trying to figure this out as most of the images show a basic Ford Cortina set up. Recently I have been refurbishing a full hub set up from a MK1 Ford Focus and this all seems to fit until you put it all together on the upright to find that the callipers interfere and touch the upright. My guess is that there must be a spacer required. Any ideas will be greatly received. Regards Robert I am working on the front suspension now, see the pictures. I had to drill the top shock holes bigger as they were missized. Bend the tabs out slightly. The tricky part was the bushing but I got them to move very smoothly by drilling out the plastic with a 3/4" drill bit and greasing them. I also polished the metal crush tubes by attaching them to my drill and go over them with 1200 wet sand paper. The result is the suspension is very smooth and tight.
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Post by drbrian on Feb 10, 2014 2:09:54 GMT
Hello Robert, Put in very thin small washers untill the clearance puts the rotor in the middle of your brake caliper. Then go buy a sheet piece of metal on McMaster Car the standoff thickness, cut it to shape and drill holes where the bolts go through. This will make it firm, and be much stronger than using washer shims. Thanks Brian I am in Houston Texas (Sugar Land) Hi Do you have any images of the front hub set up for this type of upright? For some time now I have been trying to figure this out as most of the images show a basic Ford Cortina set up. Recently I have been refurbishing a full hub set up from a MK1 Ford Focus and this all seems to fit until you put it all together on the upright to find that the callipers interfere and touch the upright. My guess is that there must be a spacer required. Any ideas will be greatly received. Regards Robert I am working on the front suspension now, see the pictures. I had to drill the top shock holes bigger as they were missized. Bend the tabs out slightly. The tricky part was the bushing but I got them to move very smoothly by drilling out the plastic with a 3/4" drill bit and greasing them. I also polished the metal crush tubes by attaching them to my drill and go over them with 1200 wet sand paper. The result is the suspension is very smooth and tight.
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Post by robbiggs on Feb 10, 2014 23:03:53 GMT
Hi Brian I turned the hub 90 degrees and hey presto it all fits into place. I take your point about spacing between the upright and the hub. It had crossed my mind to use a series of washers. Finishing off the painting of the hubs etc over the next few days. I will try and upload some images. Regards Robert
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Post by robbiggs on Feb 10, 2014 23:22:47 GMT
Hi Brian I turned the hub 90 degrees and hey presto it all fits into place. I take your point about spacing between the upright and the hub. It had crossed my mind to use a series of washers. Finishing off the painting of the hubs etc over the next few days. I will try and upload some images. Regards Robert Not sure where I am going wrong with the link codes from photo bucket!
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Post by robbiggs on Feb 10, 2014 23:23:46 GMT
Hi Brian I turned the hub 90 degrees and hey presto it all fits into place. I take your point about spacing between the upright and the hub. It had crossed my mind to use a series of washers. Finishing off the painting of the hubs etc over the next few days. I will try and upload some images. Regards Robert Not sure where I am going wrong with the link codes from photo bucket! It worked. Ignore the first coat finish of the hubs and brake bracket.
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Post by drbrian on Feb 11, 2014 4:20:20 GMT
Yep that looks correct.
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Post by drbrian on Feb 11, 2014 4:23:45 GMT
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Post by drbrian on Feb 11, 2014 4:33:18 GMT
I am trying to figure out a very slick way of working the serpentine belt Note the engagement angle determines how much grip that belt has on that pulley, the reason they go almost fully around the crank pulley it to maximize grip on the belt. However, Our cars have very little load on the alternator, no AC, no power steering, so the load is minimal and a lower engagement angle on the crank pulley is acceptable. Original Configuration Recommended configuration Slick Configuration if you make a custom pulley for the water pump. I am looking for another pulley that I could use from a ford, I may have found one on a water pump on a 2005 ford mustang, I am crossing my fingers.
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Post by drbrian on Feb 11, 2014 4:34:08 GMT
I am sending my pulley option to David in Texas, maybe he can post if it works or not. Thanks Brian
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Post by robbiggs on Feb 11, 2014 22:06:50 GMT
Hi Brian Thats a great link to your neighbours car. Cheers Robert
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