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Post by marshabusa on May 14, 2014 13:19:25 GMT
I'm trying hard to remember back now, as I am at work and cannot go check but mine is very similar. I believe though that the green line you have coming from the top of the header tank should T into your Yellow line.
The green line from the radiator on mine goes into a little expansion bottle that looks like a NOS bottle I got off of ebay.
In this configuration it works just fine out on the road. Getting stuck in traffic though it heats up very quickly. This apparently is quite normal even on the bike but a bike rarely gets stuck stationary anywhere.
During the winter I'll be looking at replacing the bike rad with a larger capacity alloy one with a large fan attached. Most likely doing away with the rad cap and running with just the header tank one. I'll probably end up getting one made special with the correct number of inlets/outlets in the right places for my plumbing.
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Post by moog on May 15, 2014 9:41:29 GMT
Thanks Marshabusa, if I went with your suggestion of Ting the green line from the header tank into the yellow link, what would I do with the overflow from the radiator? Vent it to atmosphere or use the expansion tank from the bike?
I like your ideas for improving the airflow, have you ran yours on a track at all yet? If so, how were your temperatures?
thanks /Moog
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Post by marshabusa on May 15, 2014 10:11:23 GMT
Morning Moog, Because the level of the radiator in the nose cone is below the highest coolant point in the engine and header tank, the overflow from the radiator needs to go to an expansion tank. Otherwise if/when the rad cap lifts you'd lose coolant out onto the road, eventually causing you to overheat. Ideally you put a higher pressure rated cap on the rad and have a cap on the header tank at the same pressure rating as the old rad cap so your header tank cap is the first to lift. I haven't managed to do that though and so I'm running with an expansion bottle, the bike one is ugly and an awkward shape and so I got one of these off of ebay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Streetfighter-ausgleichsbehalter-kuhlwasser-behalter-Kuhlflussigkeitsbehalter-/131183320492?pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item1e8b229dacI haven't tracked my car yet but it does get driven pretty hard. I usually go out to play with a 2L sonic and a V6 2.9 cosworth Dax rush. The temperature stays solidly in the middle of the busa clocks gauge when in motion. Only time I've been panicking is stuck stationary in town traffic. I may just install a large fan in front or behind the existing bike rad on a switch I can turn on/off at will. Dean
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Post by moog on May 15, 2014 10:37:36 GMT
Got you, sounds like a plan, thanks for the help. The fan idea seems sound, I did read a while ago about an aftermarket ally fan replacement for the rad fan which was meant to improve things, but I think long term like you say a bigger rad sounds sensible.
cheers
/Moog
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2014 14:46:59 GMT
hi mark, if you planning on buying expansion bottle, though id make a suggestion Have just fitted nose cone so I could measure and optimise space. Not alloy, but have just ordered rad for which is new, will fit and will offer more efficient cooling. on top of that a new larger fan . Have also had to buy some pipe reduces from 32 to 25. You could sell your busa rad and fan and you would recoup some of this anyway - and no expansion bottle to buy. New rad, new fan and better cooling - IMO think this is a worthwhile investment.
regarding you diagram, if you are fitting a header tank with pressure release you would no longer need pressure release on the radiator itself.
If keeping busa rad think I would fit NON pressure release cap to rad and block off small pipe on rad neck. Next small pipe on rad, I would t to small connection on thermostat housing and into top of header.
then think same as your diagram:
Neck of header, pipe run to bottom of car, atmosphere Pump to bottom rad - t into bottom of header thermo house to top rad.
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Post by moog on May 16, 2014 12:18:23 GMT
Thanks Matt, I do indeed have a header tank already, plus the 'busa rad mounted, so I'll stick to that route for year 1 and getting it on the road. Tinkering can happen when I've got that magic piece of paper So following your advice gives a diagram like this: /Moog
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2014 16:01:35 GMT
yep, that's what id do.
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