The loom has been a challenge for us. Positioning, logic and the sheer size of it makes it quite cumbersome. The ECU is mounted centrally. The ABS controller is back-to-back with the ABS block. We are pretty much finished with the wiring and have only needed to make extensions for the lights and the handbrake warning light. We have used the instrument dimmer control, hazard switch and the rear foglamp switch from the donor. I don't think the rear fog will be allowed for IVA which is worrying as these switches have now been installed neatly into the dash. IVA states that the fog should only come on when dipped or main beam is on and that if the ignition is cut then the fog won't come back on until switched again with the headlights on. Our car didn't do that. Carbuilder Solutions have an (expensive) electronic module that you can insert into the loom. I've ordered one.
The lights installed, minus the reversing light and foglamp. We really don't want a line of four round lamps and so I have ordered IVA-compliant rev and fog lamps that (hopefully) will be slung beneath the car for the test. IVA states that the fog should not be within 100mm of the brake light and should be a min of 250mm off the floor. It will be tight. I'm beginning to hate the test requirements but i'm sure it will be worth it. I am considering paying for a professional pre-IVA inspection as it's our first time. We'll see how confident we feel - failure is expensive. Build cost so far in total (including all replacement donor parts, powder coating, wheels, some new tools, consumables, the donor car itself etc. etc.) has just gone over the £10k mark. Working on the headlight mountings now, the filler cap (again). Then we can fire her up. Just found out that the 'plug and play' IVA OK filler cap I have just bought wont pass 'cos it has to be permanently tethered to the car. Brass wire is called for, I suppose. I'll let you know how we get on. Keep on trucking fellas!
The iVA manual states 'The fuel filler cap must either be tethered to the vehicle or be of a lockable type where the key can only be removed when the cap is locked or an automatically opening and closing, non-removable fuel filler cap' as the one you bought is the lockable type you should be ok. So long as Stuart's rear end design puts the trio of lights you have fitted at the min of 350mm above the ground you'll have 100mm below them to fit fog & reverse. With the minimum separation distance of 100mm from stop lamps they will be pretty close to the reg plate as well watch for it obscuring them. Like the no.plate lamps! Retro.
The (FOG/REV) min 250mm is from the ground to the bottom of the illuminated area. Looking at the picture of the body mount points above they need to be more solid. They are bolted with 6mm bolts and compress the sides of the channel. I would suggest 8mm bolts and a spacer so you can tighten them properly.
Front winker in place with a bead of silicone. We drilled a small hole at the back on the bottom of the headlight recess as a drain hole for water ingress. The headlight is attached using springs/rivnuts and locking nuts on the rear to allow for adjustment.
I found the Dremmel to be a good tool for the headlight cowls. Once cut out roughly the material is quite flexible. Mark a spot on top centre of the cowl and on the body where it marries, then keep pressing the cowl into place and marking areas to trim. Give yourself over to it for an hour or so and it will eventually drop nicely into the recess. Sand the edges and then drill for fixings.
I used M3 rivnuts epoxied into the bodywork. Be careful of the angles you drill. Work out where you need your fixing to end up as the recess 'overhangs' sharply at points towards the top.
Side panels in place. We decided to fit it in two parts - the upright, and then, with the use of 90 degree angle along the top, the horizontal section using screws so that they can be removed for access.
Horizontal section fitted to side panel showing the grommet, wiring and fitting for the side repeater. We chose a high position after seeing original DBRs using high side lights to illuminate the car numbers for night racing. The square foam is there for IVA.
Not ideal but not minging. The IVA filler cap is installed and operational. Get a full meter length of the most flexible fuel hose you can buy. It might be expensive but you need wiggle room underneath to get it in position. I wasted money on a budget half-meter and had to re-order after giving up.
Looking good really great photos (very useful for my build) like the idea about the horizontal side panels for inspection, note your comment re the light cover fixing at top, was going to go after market dials but I am now thinking use of original dash, in first instance (IVA), is way to go. I am not an electrics person but recall when I had Lotus a poor earth caused a similar 'fast flashing'.
Cars in the Workshop Replicar - 1998 Mk2 1.8 donor Honda Civic Coupe SR Discovery TD5
the warning light in the dash for the fogs is fine - as long as its still visible!
not sure about the winkers - I know mine were slightly problematic, or fast if I didn't have all the lights( head and tail, lights) wired into the back of the cluster on the dash, and to the light unit
Was Exocet no 56 , Red 5s white flash , now just a jag xkr
We decided that the handbrake cable and fittings were unattractive and potentially dangerous as exposed parts. Some time with some thick alloy checkerplate fabricating a cover made a positive addition to the interior. All edges ground off with a nice radius and polished up. Getting in and out is not that easy and being able to clamber around on the tunnel makes for an easier life.