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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 10, 2014 14:45:53 GMT
10/06/2014 - More new bits & oil leaksMixed bag today - on thlinke plus side, I got some new bits: and one old bit (can anyone guess what it is?): On the downside - I'm torn on my oil leak situation. I know the CAS needed doing, so I've got everything to do that at the same time as doign the timing (and water pump); but I'm not 100% convinced that's the problem, having stripped it. it looks like I could have two other issues - see these threads: muck on the back of one intake valve = stem seal?Oil leak assistance please I want to do this right first time, so I'm inclined to do preventative management by default; but on the other hand, if I go much further down this route I'm not far short of doing a rebuild and might as well commit. Thoughts/answers on a postcard?
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 10, 2014 18:10:20 GMT
Looks like between the CAS O ring and the cam cover gasket should fix the oil leaks on the back of engine..Remember to put some sealant at the corners of the cam towers front and rear to help seal the gasket..Intake and exhaust gaskets will seal the sides.. If you are going to freshen the head now is time to do. If you have the cash now..Or finish your build and do work if/when it really starts blowing smoke. Check with machine shops for cost to surface, pressure check and do valve job.. As for a total rebuild I would hold off you said engine was running fine..
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Post by p5curly on Jun 10, 2014 18:37:58 GMT
What goodies you got mate
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 11, 2014 12:24:13 GMT
Looks like between the CAS O ring and the cam cover gasket should fix the oil leaks on the back of engine..Remember to put some sealant at the corners of the cam towers front and rear to help seal the gasket..Intake and exhaust gaskets will seal the sides.. If you are going to freshen the head now is time to do. If you have the cash now..Or finish your build and do work if/when it really starts blowing smoke. Check with machine shops for cost to surface, pressure check and do valve job.. As for a total rebuild I would hold off you said engine was running fine.. Good advice as always The plan has always been to get it up and running first and then look at supercharging.... so I'll hold off. What goodies you got mate Gear for a full service (the usual) plus timing belt, CAS 'o' ring, intake/exhaust gaskets.... The big black box however is a bit special - it's a manual rack. I've already begun the process of depowering the PAS rack that I had in the car but since then I've a big of digging into it. If you want to go for a full depower it seems you really need to do some welding due to how the PAS system actually works. More info Here: forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=335874So for now I'm going to run with a fully manual rack - and if I'm underwhelmed, I still have the option to return to my depowered PAS and get it welded. If not, I'll sell it on. Win-win.
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 15, 2014 1:31:51 GMT
14/06/2014 - Fun with the CougarNot a Mevster update this one - but an example of how I get dragged into things that keep me off the kit project. Take today - as some of you may be aware, the Ford V6 fitted in the Cougar (as well as the Mondeo) has a known weakness in the location of the IMRC.... on the front, right about the exhaust headers. Transistor in the IMRC uses the lower edge of the casing as a heatsink, but this is being baked by the exhaust... end result, one fried IMRC and no lovely dollop of extra go above 3.5K RPM. There are fixes for the fault; replacing the IMRC as a whole, desoldering the Transistor and fitting a new one etc but they don't solve the cause. So some people have taken to relocating it elsewhere. Generally speaking, within the limits of the existing loom, the best you can do is the trailing edge of the battery tray hanging by one edge only. I thought I could do a little better I've spent the afternoon cutting and extending the loom (in hindsight, probably not the best idea to do on your daily driver without a backup plan!) and creating a cradle to hold the IMRC in place under the tray using all 3 mounting points. it normally sits on the free unoccupied posts (under a plastic cover): SNIP! In it's new home ,under the battery tray - and with the loom extended by a strip, solder, shrink wrap, and then bundle wrap (inc silicon tape at the two joints)
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 15, 2014 22:17:31 GMT
15/06/2014 - Tool Wobbly
I've previously lent out my 1/2" torque wrench and since then (about a year ago) it's just sat in the tool box. Get it out, notice it's been left wound on pretty high, so I testted it with old vice > measure > weight routine. End result, significantly out of kilter (had to double check my maths as the drift was almost 10% at the lower end.... settles down a bit as you pile more weight on).
Long story short, can't seem to get it back into calibration; not consistently anyway. So I'm looking at a replacement as calibration/servicing is going to cost almost as much as new one, from what I hear.
Wouldn't be so bad but I was going to do the service this weekend..... sod's law, between this and the Cougar.
Anyway - thinking of going Digital for two reasons:
1) Oooh... new shiny. 2) Won't need to re-calibrate in the tools likely lifetime.
The only downside I can see is the loss of that lovely reassuring click; instead you get a beep like a parking sensor! oh well, the price of progress I guess?
I'm thinking of a 1/2" digital torque adapter for the larger stuff (allows me to use it with my ratchet, breaker whatever), and a 1/4" inch digital torque wrench for the rest. Thoughts? Anyone used these?
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 15, 2014 22:17:47 GMT
(Also - never lend tools... it always ends badly!)
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 16, 2014 21:12:02 GMT
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 17, 2014 14:47:45 GMT
17/06/2014 - Superfast delivery on the 1/4"....
1 day shipping, when I was expecting 2-3 days. AWESOME suprise.
Had a little play.... I had misgivings about the lack of feedback (there is something really reassuring about the 'clack'!) but actually, it's just different. Hard to explain, so I set it up to measure peak torque with a desired final value of 6nm and used a socket and vice to demonstrate:
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 24, 2014 13:48:13 GMT
24/06/2014 - Ist Ze Paerwerk In Orderung?
I've been off of the oily bits for a few days (went on a weekend break down to Dorset) and have been working here there and everywhere. But I've been doing a few car bits that needed doing:
1) I've priced up replacements for all bolts I'm likely to need replacements for.... I'll save what I can, what I can't will be replace from Mx5parts (if available) and mazda (if I've got no bloody choice). 2) I've also had a chat to Mazda and paid my £35 to their homologation department so I can prove the history of my import; as my V5 (incorrectly) identifies the car as a Mazda MX-5, not a Eunos Roadster. I know, same bloody thing right? but it makes a different on the emmisions.... technically as an Eunos it would be subject to a less stringent test AND also, even though originally fitted with a CAT, could be legally de-CAT'd providing it meets the emmisions requirements. 3) Once I've got that letter back I can tackle the DVLA and get V5 updated.
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 29, 2014 21:53:41 GMT
29/06/2014 - Helicoil in Sump and a copper ring... normal?I drained the sump and put the original bolt back hand-tight only a while ago... I have to admit I wasn't paying a huge amount of attention to it then as it looked fairly standard. Anyway - revisited today as I noticed some oil under the engine after fettling yesterday (re-sealing some of the holes with heatshield tape, following the idea others have used). Assumed the bolt had somehow worked it's way loose and just needed a small nip-up. Then I took a closer look. The bolt and washer seem standard enough: But the thread itself less so - looks to have been helicoiled (I've no personal experience with the things, but I can see the holes at the side used to drive this in... I think this is more correctly called a self-tapping insert because it appears to be solid?) Anyway... my question - you can see there is a copper sealing face just inside the plughole face.... it's mostly flush, but some areas are recessed and some slightly proud. 1) Is this standard? Or added as part of the insert? (first MX-5 so no frame of reference; have checked hyanes and workshop manuals, google etc and can't find a mention one way or the other). 2) In either case, any ideas how critical it is to the seal? (I'm thinking of very carefully reducing the proud area to flush if it does, sod all idea what to be with the recessed part). 3) You can see a notch at approx 4 o'clock.... it's not all that deep (the picture makes it look worse than it is) but my gut feel is the ali washer won't seal properly. In all honesty, I didn't notice a leak from this area before dismantling... it's odd because it is very precise (very defined edge) and doesn't exceed the washer 'ring' in either direction. It looks almost deliberate. Again, any ideas? As best as I could tell, the helicoil is in at the right angle (despite 1 showing some uneveness on the copper). So I'm inclined not to sweat it a huge deal.... possibly put a smear of RTV sealant on-top/behind the washer?
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jun 30, 2014 8:48:26 GMT
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jul 1, 2014 10:11:31 GMT
Update from VOSAThank you for your e-mail enquiry dated 27th June 2014, concerning MOT emissions.
Section 7.3 of the inspection manual for private passenger and light commercial vehicles covers the emissions tests for petrol vehicles (you can view the full MOT inspection manual online at www.transportoffice.gov.uk/crt/doitonline/bl/mottestingmanualsandguides/mottestingmanualsandguides.htm).
For a vehicle first used in 1993, a CAT emissions test would only be done if there was an exact match for the vehicle in the emissions database. As your vehicle is an imported vehicle, there would not be an exact match and therefore the vehicle should have a non-CAT emissions test (ie CO<=3.5%, HC<=1200ppm).
As the vehicle does not need a CAT emissions test, the tester will not be checking for the presence of a CAT where fitted as standard.
I hope this information has assisted you with your enquiry, but if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to contact us again.
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jul 13, 2014 23:22:47 GMT
13/07/2014 - a few updatesFrustratingly, still haven't done the engine service;both this weekend and the last one over taken by birthdays. But I have made a few small bits of progress: 1) Fully stripped and inspected the intake manifold; confirmed the oiling was exclusively from the breathers, which is reassuring in some ways... but now I'm trying to figure out why so much oil had gone through the breathers. Hmm. 2) Stripped down the manual rack that I bought.... the previous owner used locktite on the tie rod ends. ALOT. Had to come back several times using heat/shock/fluid to get them off without damaging the rack. 3) Local garage managed to get the driveshafts seperated from the hubs... however they ever so slightly mushroomed the end (sods law). As it was 1mm (or there abouts) I very, very carefully ground it back. As far as I can tell splines are fine, and the bearings seem to move freely without any ominous noises. So fingers crossed, no serious harm done. 4) Painted lots of little bits (driveshafts, props etc) 5) Did a bit of mock-up for tank fit, seat fit, dash repair etc... basically getting my eye in before I start drilling/cutting in ways I might regret later Can't wait to get the engine done and (more importantly) get the subframes etc off for powdercoating. From that point on it'll be building up, rather than tearing down.
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Post by mrjingles705 on Jul 13, 2014 23:24:42 GMT
Oh... and I almost forgot!
Got my letter back from Mazda, confirming my car is indeed a Eunos Roadster. Send that, the V5, photos and covering letter to DVLA to try ans see if I can't get this updated. Just avoids any fun and games at the emissions stage (not that I'm expecting any... but buying myself a bit of headroom on the test can only be a good thing right? and gives me the option to de-CAT at will too).
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