|
Post by hightower on Aug 14, 2013 9:05:40 GMT
Cheers bob I've got anew rad but don't no what it's from and what size fan do you buy the biggest to fit your rad?
|
|
|
Post by BobN on Aug 14, 2013 9:11:49 GMT
Yep buy the biggest to fit the Rad you have. Try to fit so that it pulls air rather than push and consider venting options i.e. where do you want the hot air directed to - in the c0ckpit or hole in the floor or even sides like Jack & Jacks dad build.
I am considering making a hole in the bulkhead and using a open/close type air scoop or vent to direct the air to the side of the vehicle. I will close this in winter so that I get warm air in the c0ckpit
|
|
|
Post by hightower on Aug 14, 2013 9:30:55 GMT
Yea I'm going to panel the floor in front and vent it to allow some hot air to escape seen a few builds that have done that
|
|
|
Post by ssmith764 on Aug 14, 2013 12:02:43 GMT
|
|
|
Post by airforceone on Aug 14, 2013 12:40:47 GMT
Have a look at the golf/polo rad. Roughly the same size but twice as thick and only costs £30 from ebay. Has different mounting lugs so is a bit more fiddly to fit.
Im sure I have a 14 inch fan on mine will have a look tonite.
|
|
|
Post by hightower on Aug 14, 2013 12:46:51 GMT
Always told bigger is better haha thanks guys.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Aug 15, 2013 9:06:47 GMT
Renault meganne/Clio 1600cc one.. £30 odd.
|
|
|
Post by hightower on Aug 15, 2013 16:39:42 GMT
Cheers Steve ill get looking mate.
|
|
|
Post by ssmith764 on Aug 19, 2013 19:57:12 GMT
|
|
|
Post by BobN on Aug 20, 2013 6:39:44 GMT
Regarding drilling through your extension. I did drill though mine and found it was ok in terms of retaining the bar strength. You also want to ensure the extension rod does not slip out whilst driving.
The other thing was my extension was not fitting completely snug and I had a bit of play at the steering wheel, by tightening the M8 bolt it kinda clamped the to rods tight therefore eliminating any play that was at the steering wheel.
Bob
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Aug 20, 2013 7:51:03 GMT
Regarding drilling through your extension. I did drill though mine and found it was ok in terms of retaining the bar strength Sorry Bob I'm not trying to be an a***ole but exactly how did you establish this fact? - show me the maths or test results. What you have stated is impossible.
|
|
|
Post by BobN on Aug 20, 2013 9:35:04 GMT
You are right no maths involved so my statement is not accurate. I basically took a hammer to it to see if it would deform before I bolted it down and it did not so I assumed it was strong enough for the task required of it, thats why I think the bar strength was retained.
I guess the other factor to take into account is the composition of the extension bar you are using. Mine was from the steering rack as I did the quick rack conversion.
Would love to see some proper tests though.
|
|
|
Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 20, 2013 11:26:54 GMT
i drilled mine through twice, i did no testing on it, but in my personal opinion, the forces passing through it at high speed cornering would not be sufficient to shear it, if it did it would still be inside the female part about an inch (ohh matron). I recon it would need a colision to twist it off, and to be honest, with the exo, there is gonna be a lot more metal to fix too. Or im completely wrong and the phrase backwards on fire through the gates, comes to mind.. lol either way.. its staying as is... i did test it by shouting and swearing at it, it didnt buckle under the pressure though.. good northern steel
|
|
|
Post by kiwicanfly on Aug 20, 2013 19:16:30 GMT
Ok I was being pedantic here, there is a big difference between retaining the "original strength" which is impossible if you have changed the cross sectional area by drilling a hole and retaining "sufficient strength". Point being to simply suggest it is ok to drill a hole through a critical component without knowing material grade, section size and hole size is dangerous. Sorry to bang on about NZ but there is a simple rule used here that applies - is it as strong as the original? Ford will have spent lots of dollars ensuring the shaft is a simple to make, as thin as possible and from the cheapest material - to do the job. Because achieving this will mean it a cheap as it can be. Whilst the Rocket is much lighter, keeping to original standard ensures safety. If possible mill the flats rather than grind them freehand, make them a precise fit in the sockets and the shaft won't need a cross hole. For a little extra security dimple the shaft and put a grub screw in. And finally remember it's only your life we are dealing with here
|
|
|
Post by Paul (madeye) on Aug 20, 2013 20:09:57 GMT
mine is not worth much, and i aint getting past 50 years old anyway.. i may re look at it later on.. MAY
|
|