As always after some advice, due to house buying and a spot of man flu I haven't done much on the kit for a while but want to put the radiator on this weekend, does anyone have a design for some brackets to mount the radiator and the best location to put the radiator?
Any photos would be great to allow me to see how the radiator goes on and the location of the pipes. I plan to put an expansion tank on the back.
Have a look at page 3 on my build thread. It shows the rad, the pipe route and the expansion bottle at the back. I used the original R1 bottom bracket for the radiator and made a couple of steel ones at the top and there's loads of similar methods in the threads, if it helps. I just put the rad dead centre and because I wanted to maintain a similar tilt it had on the bike, this dictated the length and position of the top brackets.
Well finally the house seems to be sorted, my recent man flu has gone and a trip to the restoration show at the NEC last weekend has got be back to the build, so radiator and pipes going on over the next couple of weeks. But I do need a bit of advice so my questions are:
Question 1) Should I use pot rivets or rivnuts to secure the "P" clips for the coolant pipes which go down under the tunnel.
Question 2) Do the "P" clips have to be at a set distance apart for the test?
Bin the pipes and use hoses all the way. This will minimize connections and possible leakages. I T-wrapped the hoses next to each other and turned out the total width is still a tight fit in the tunnel. No use for rivetting or P clips (lack of width!!). Do note the gear lever could be best build outside the tunnel. and hoses+loom inside the tunnel.
Take your time understanding the cooling circuit. If you route the hoses right you could be able to fill the system in one session and add about 50cc after the engine runs warm.
Hi Bob, if I had to rebuild the gear lever I'd place gommets on the floor under the seat and bolt a strip on the gommets where the gear lever is mounted on next to the tunnel.You need proper leverage to shift. The gommets will act as a hinge. It's very similar to the idle lever I added on top of my tunnel.
Unfortunately, the tunnel is very restricted in space. I managed to cramp in the loom, hoses, gear lever and R1 starter key (keem em warm and dry ) but the gear lever is the most PITA inside the tunnel. This is a moving part inside the tunnel where there's near no height on top of the hoses. I used drawer slides to achieve low height movement in the tunnel.
The radiator is quite often tilted forwards to create room for hoses but this will restrict airflow and overheat the engine. I rotated the rad NOT tilting to create space for the hoses. Bin the stock mash as well. this has only 50% see through area. Stainless steel braided mesh has about 70% which helps a lot.
Have a browse in my thread. You may find several usefull details worth looking into.