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Post by jake on Dec 10, 2017 19:36:09 GMT
I would say there’s only supposed to be one O ring on there.
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Post by casesensitive on Dec 11, 2017 15:32:24 GMT
Motor factors didn't have it, Ford part number seems to be 1665179, I was going to order 5, the injectors take the same o-ring, but they were €6.50 each, plus VAT, so I ordered one instead :/
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Post by casesensitive on Dec 19, 2017 12:11:13 GMT
€7.45 ffs
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Post by casesensitive on Dec 20, 2017 13:51:17 GMT
New bits picked up by snipping an ebay auction I'd no business being in. Don't really need these, but I couldn't resist. Looks like they'll fit my existing trumpets, backplate/filter, and fuel rail, which is a relief. Came with an unused Jenvey throttle potentiometer, and I'll have to modify my throttle cable adjuster. Then DanST was called to make a manifold to suit Which it nearly does.. Got a bit of a QC issue maybe. God knows how I'll connect the 8.67mm holes in the Jenveys to the 6.35mm holes in the manifold. I've mailed Dan, it's probably some Imperial fitment (why???). Got him to put 4 vacuum take offs so that I can balance it (they're twins, so there should be only 1 small adjustment, and then these cute little bungs to replace the brass vacuum take offs when it's in operation. Very neat.
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Post by casesensitive on Dec 20, 2017 13:52:25 GMT
Anyone want GSXR ITBs and and ported ST170 inlet stub manifold from Santy??
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Post by mawdo81 on Dec 20, 2017 14:06:08 GMT
Hmm, would they fit a standard 2.0 ;-)
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Post by casesensitive on Dec 20, 2017 16:16:03 GMT
Yep, stub manifold will fit, though the ports will be off by a touch (ST170 ones are slightly larger). Consensus internet opinion says yes! passionford.com/forum/ford-focus-rs/160501-will-a-st170-inlet-manifold-fit-2-0l-zetec.htmlwww.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=99564It's all very homemade, as you'll see from my build, but it does go vroom very nicely. Trying to figure out what's included, definitely these anyway: - GSXR1000 42mm ITBs with injector holes bunged up with JB weld (removable)
I went down the route of bending the interlink tabs rather than welding tabs to them, may need to tweak for your own fitting. - GSXR Throttle Position sensor and wiring connector
- ST170 stub manifold, ported to match bodies
- DanST fitting kit (silicone joiners, 8 clips, threaded bar, and some spacer bar that I didn't bother cutting up to use)
- Legit DanST pipercross backplate, that I found unsuitable due to inter-body spacing!
- Pretty reasonable copy of this made from 1.5mm aluminium that works much better.
- Both have an M12 drillhole where my Air Temp Sensor goes
- And a primitive 3mmx12mm bar contraption of my own devising to hold it all in place, including little pads to hold the bungs into the injector holes, in case of misfire, picture below.
- All the spare Gixer bits and bobs, if ya want them, sitting in a box in my garage
I do have short (30mm maybe?) red trumpets that came with the Jenveys that I might part with. Excludes: the 90mm trumpets, filter, fuel rail (I use the standard 2.0 one anyway!), fuel pressure reg (also from 2.0), wiring, injectors, screws and the 3 clips that hold the filter onto the backplate. I haven't balanced them properly; my neighbour at the garage is extremely noise-sensitive, so I can't run the car for long enough to fiddle with the adjusters to get it perfect. DanST backplate shown here Click for monster zoom Ported inlet
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Post by bazandgav on Jan 4, 2018 19:35:10 GMT
Am just looking at starting a throttle body project for my ST170 build- is this one still available? Could save me some time!
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 9, 2018 21:45:10 GMT
Am just looking at starting a throttle body project for my ST170 build- is this one still available? Could save me some time! Sold to that man!
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 11, 2018 10:06:01 GMT
Picked up 5 of 51mm x2mm o-rings off fleabay for £3, fit my Jenveys like a glove, makes the €7.50 I paid for a single Ford 11mm o-ring all the more galling. Despite Dan's insistence, I found the '10mm' holes drilled in the flange plate for the manifold much more like 9mm, too big for 8mm and way too small for 10mm. I bought some 10mm polyurethane spacers, but there was just no way they were going in. I improvised some black tape around 8mm SS bolts the required thickness, which fit nicely. Same issue with the Jenveys to the manifold, holes in the Jenveys were 9.3mmm, more black tape there. Loosely fit I flogged the DanST trumpets that fit my 48mm ID GSXR ITBs well, but left a 'step' in going to the 45mm Jenveys, so I'm ordering up smaller ones from Dan now. Plan is to anodise them a funky colour, initially wanted fiery red, but with a blue frame, purple-y rocker cover and mid-red Jenveys, there's a lot going on, may try and match one of the existing colours I have instead. I also spent nearly a full day improving the finish with wet-and-dry on my old ones, so I've asked Dan if he's able to produce a gloss finish on the trumpets before sending them out. If not, I'll break the kitty with Jenvey partsIt was getting very dark, so I don't have a shot of the fuel rail attached, but it is. Looks a little shoddy next to the shiny new bits, I feel another splurge coming down the tracks..
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 11, 2018 10:25:21 GMT
This other bit wasn't well thought out. I wanted to make a gasket to get the seal just so, so I made the head surface as smooth as I could with 400 grit wet on a nice flat sanding block Then I made a template of the back of the manifold, so far so good then I used a sheet of copper I bought 0.5mm thick (which is too thick) and 300mm x 300mm (not *quite* big enough diagonally to accommodate the whole manifold surface). Then, the enemy of all well-done jobs, I rushed it. Rather than drill a hole big enough for my nibbler to fit in each intake port, my holesaw was making an awful mess, so I nibbled from the first port through the other 3. Leaving a nice big leaky gap between them. Doh. Now, the butterflies are all open at the same time, so there will always be a passage to air for each cylinder, so long as the intake valves are at least a bit open, so will it make a difference? Much more importantly, will the copper promote galvanic corrosion? Certainly google says it will, but you'll get confirmation bias when you type in the thing you're worried about. Really, I should go back and buy the thinnest copper high-temp paper gasket sheet I can find, wider, and do it properly.
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Post by jake on Jan 11, 2018 12:22:39 GMT
Why not use a thick gasket paper? Be a lot easier and you can tap it out with hammer or mark it out and cut it with a craft knife and hole punches.
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 11, 2018 17:36:33 GMT
Why not use a thick gasket paper? Be a lot easier and you can tap it out with hammer or mark it out and cut it with a craft knife and hole punches. Ha! just read this now. That's exactly what I did as it happens. Got me one of these, not a thing I was aware of, I went looking for cork-rubber gasket, but it was all far too thick (1.5mm min). £16 is quite a lot, hopefully I can find some uses for the leftovers.
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Post by familyguy on Jan 11, 2018 20:09:44 GMT
will the copper promote galvanic corrosion? Aluminium is very reactive and like stainless steel achieves its good corrosion resistance by creating a passive oxide layer on the surface. The passive layer does however make it susceptible to certain types of corrosion such as crevice and pitting which are particularly insidious. The reduced oxygen between bolted components (especially on a hot engine)would provide the perfect environment for this, especially in contact with a less reactive metal i.e copper which would set up a corrosion cell and accelerate the process. This effect would be minimal with say a copper washer but I would avoid using a big sheet as a gasket. Waffled on a bit there :-)
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 12, 2018 9:46:11 GMT
will the copper promote galvanic corrosion? Aluminium is very reactive and like stainless steel achieves its good corrosion resistance by creating a passive oxide layer on the surface. The passive layer does however make it susceptible to certain types of corrosion such as crevice and pitting which are particularly insidious. The reduced oxygen between bolted components (especially on a hot engine)would provide the perfect environment for this, especially in contact with a less reactive metal i.e copper which would set up a corrosion cell and accelerate the process. This effect would be minimal with say a copper washer but I would avoid using a big sheet as a gasket. Waffled on a bit there :-) Not at all, very informative, big fan of advice backed up with solid facts.
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