Post by Stiggy on May 22, 2013 19:09:42 GMT
The quote below is from the IVA manual regarding statutory plates.
7. The Stamped in VIN must be marked on the chassis, frame or other
similar structure which is not easily removable, on the right hand side
of the vehicle when viewed from the rear. (see note 6, 8 & 9)
THIS RULING HAS NOW CHANGED AND VIN PLATES WILL NEED WELD SEAMS TO ALL SIDES
In addition to a chassis VIN plate you must also have a plate with the manufacturers name on it plus the VIN number. Details below taken form the manual.
3. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be made of a durable material.
4. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be indelibly marked with the
manufacturer’s name
5. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be securely attached to a part of the
vehicle that will not be replaced through normal use.
HEADLIGHTS;
Occasionally the Dominator headlights are called into question. I must point out that flat beam patterns are allowed. If you mount them so that the dipped beam is not level with the road then they may fail. These are cheap lights and sometimes you may find the bulbs need replacing to ensure you have a flat beam that is defined.
WEIGHTS;
This question on the application form refers to design weights, not vehicle weights. I suggest 550 kgs front and 450 kgs rear, total 1000 kgs train weight not applicable.
POWER;
I put 130 bhp @ 6500 rpm for the 1.8 and 110 bhp @ 6500 for the 1.6.
SPEED;
The maximum speed is probably 110 mph. This statement needs to correspond with the speed rating on your tyres.
DRIVE TO THE TEST;
You are permitted to drive to the test with insurance based on the VIN number. This will give you time to bed the brakes in and ensure it is up to temp for the emission test. You must be confident that your car is safe to drive prior to being inspected. If it is not safe you will not be permitted to drive home.
MOT;
You are not required to have an MOT for three years regardless if you have an age related plate or declare it new. A new car must have proof of all new parts with one exception perhaps a recon engine.
TIPS;
Book a morning appointment to allow you time to modify any fail points.
Take tools, rubber trim, rubber hose, P clips, cable ties, self tap screws, PU adhesive, etc etc.
Check brake flex hoses do not contact anything on full lock both ways and do not pull tight at any point. Secure handbrake cables and check when the handbrake is pulled hard that it does not reach the end of it's travel.
Any minor exhaust leak may cause an emissions test fail.
Check hazards work with key out.
Check fog light only works with dip/main beam on. If you wire the rear fog to come on with the side lights then you will need a self cancelling switch or a warning buzzer.
Check key for petrol cap cannot be removed when un locked and is attached to ignition key, or tether the cap.
Ensure fog light is on offside or center and it is 90 degrees to the road.
Fit a specified fluid label to the brake reservoir area.
Obvious one, check the horn and all lights including back lights to instruments.
Make sure you have a dash mounted mirror, permanently fixed, if visibility is impaired from it then fit a near side mirror too.
E mark on seat belts required, check for frays to webbing and that they lock properly.
Ensure your column locks with the key removed.
CAT required unless you can prove the engine number and V5 are from a pre Aug 92 car.
Take the receipt for any fuel pipe used to prove it is suitable unless it is clearly marked.
Ensure you have a properly fixed interior mirror even if you can't see much from it.
You will need mirrors on extended arms to ensure the rear wings do not obstruct view.
Side repeaters need to be seen from 5 degrees out at the rear right down to the floor.
Front lights need to be seen at 45 degrees to the opposite side they are mounted, right down to the floor.
Check for 2.5 mm rad on anything that can be contacted with a 100mm ball. Pedals etc.
Check spring base on shocks for 2.5 mm radius. Nut caps are not essential, rubber hose secured with PU is OK.
Edge trim is required on wishbones, this needs securing with PU adhesive.
7. The Stamped in VIN must be marked on the chassis, frame or other
similar structure which is not easily removable, on the right hand side
of the vehicle when viewed from the rear. (see note 6, 8 & 9)
THIS RULING HAS NOW CHANGED AND VIN PLATES WILL NEED WELD SEAMS TO ALL SIDES
In addition to a chassis VIN plate you must also have a plate with the manufacturers name on it plus the VIN number. Details below taken form the manual.
3. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be made of a durable material.
4. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be indelibly marked with the
manufacturer’s name
5. The manufacturer’s plate(s) must be securely attached to a part of the
vehicle that will not be replaced through normal use.
HEADLIGHTS;
Occasionally the Dominator headlights are called into question. I must point out that flat beam patterns are allowed. If you mount them so that the dipped beam is not level with the road then they may fail. These are cheap lights and sometimes you may find the bulbs need replacing to ensure you have a flat beam that is defined.
WEIGHTS;
This question on the application form refers to design weights, not vehicle weights. I suggest 550 kgs front and 450 kgs rear, total 1000 kgs train weight not applicable.
POWER;
I put 130 bhp @ 6500 rpm for the 1.8 and 110 bhp @ 6500 for the 1.6.
SPEED;
The maximum speed is probably 110 mph. This statement needs to correspond with the speed rating on your tyres.
DRIVE TO THE TEST;
You are permitted to drive to the test with insurance based on the VIN number. This will give you time to bed the brakes in and ensure it is up to temp for the emission test. You must be confident that your car is safe to drive prior to being inspected. If it is not safe you will not be permitted to drive home.
MOT;
You are not required to have an MOT for three years regardless if you have an age related plate or declare it new. A new car must have proof of all new parts with one exception perhaps a recon engine.
TIPS;
Book a morning appointment to allow you time to modify any fail points.
Take tools, rubber trim, rubber hose, P clips, cable ties, self tap screws, PU adhesive, etc etc.
Check brake flex hoses do not contact anything on full lock both ways and do not pull tight at any point. Secure handbrake cables and check when the handbrake is pulled hard that it does not reach the end of it's travel.
Any minor exhaust leak may cause an emissions test fail.
Check hazards work with key out.
Check fog light only works with dip/main beam on. If you wire the rear fog to come on with the side lights then you will need a self cancelling switch or a warning buzzer.
Check key for petrol cap cannot be removed when un locked and is attached to ignition key, or tether the cap.
Ensure fog light is on offside or center and it is 90 degrees to the road.
Fit a specified fluid label to the brake reservoir area.
Obvious one, check the horn and all lights including back lights to instruments.
Make sure you have a dash mounted mirror, permanently fixed, if visibility is impaired from it then fit a near side mirror too.
E mark on seat belts required, check for frays to webbing and that they lock properly.
Ensure your column locks with the key removed.
CAT required unless you can prove the engine number and V5 are from a pre Aug 92 car.
Take the receipt for any fuel pipe used to prove it is suitable unless it is clearly marked.
Ensure you have a properly fixed interior mirror even if you can't see much from it.
You will need mirrors on extended arms to ensure the rear wings do not obstruct view.
Side repeaters need to be seen from 5 degrees out at the rear right down to the floor.
Front lights need to be seen at 45 degrees to the opposite side they are mounted, right down to the floor.
Check for 2.5 mm rad on anything that can be contacted with a 100mm ball. Pedals etc.
Check spring base on shocks for 2.5 mm radius. Nut caps are not essential, rubber hose secured with PU is OK.
Edge trim is required on wishbones, this needs securing with PU adhesive.