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Post by Paul (madeye) on Apr 6, 2013 7:04:54 GMT
What about a triumph rocket in one.. That would make it interesting.
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Post by bluecob99 on Apr 6, 2013 7:50:17 GMT
Ok thanks, with the wiring loom then, is this something you can purchase from RTR or easily make up yourself?
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Apr 6, 2013 8:24:58 GMT
Coming from a bike racing background, I personally would buy the latest carby possible, then strip the engine and box, inspect gears, dogs and select or forks, especially 2nd, new head gasket, cam chain and tensioner, oil pump and coolant pump. Send carbs for complete ultrasonic cleaning and strip and rebuild. A little expense, but you know the engine is solid. I know venom had a few initial issues like this. As the motor is on show I would have the castings vapor blasted too while its apart
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Post by edwinwl on Apr 6, 2013 10:12:23 GMT
Ok thanks, with the wiring loom then, is this something you can purchase from RTR or easily make up yourself? Sure you can. But it takes time and patience. Complexity of wiring is no argument for choosing carburator R1 or injection R1 as donor. Converting the motorbike loom to fit the tR1ke basically means you have to extent wiring. All wiring is unique color coded. So it is no rocket science but don't mix up wires. It took me a few days. You have to decide: were to make the cut. See the plan below of the injection R1. (Don't be intimidated by the spaghetti.) 1. Up left are power supply (generator, rectifier, battery), key switch 2. Below left are lights, light switches, radiator fan, horn etc 3. Central area is dashboard (#42) also Oil level warning and neutral switch are connected here. 4. Right side of the plan is engine control. One big ECU (black box) were all engine related items are connected to. - High current section is the connection between battery, starter relay and starter motor. Here you need good fat wiring, carefully installed. Short cutting fat wiring with a battery attached causes fire, so protect this wiring against mechanical damage. (cut by sharp edges etc). I made an extra 1000 Amps emergency switch in this wiring. Beside crashing, fire by short cut is a plausible killer for your tR1ke. (Other electronics is protected by fuses.) - High voltage section is between spark plugs and ignition coils. This section can possible interfere with other electronics. Keep some distance. Don't change this. For the rest all wiring can be extended easily. Cutting the loom right of the dashboard (#42) leaves about 20 wires to extend + rear lights + fuel pump Leaving the original loom intact and extend all wiring between ECU to the engine leaves about 35 wires to extend + rear light + fuel pump. A bit more wires to extend but original loom is mostly intact, so less errors to expect and freedom of placement of electronics.
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Post by edwinwl on Apr 6, 2013 10:23:23 GMT
Coming from a bike racing background, I personally would buy the latest carby possible, then strip the engine and box, inspect gears, dogs and select or forks, especially 2nd, new head gasket, cam chain and tensioner, oil pump and coolant pump. Send carbs for complete ultrasonic cleaning and strip and rebuild. A little expense, but you know the engine is solid. I know venom had a few initial issues like this. As the motor is on show I would have the castings vapor blasted too while its apart What arguments you have for carb engine?
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Apr 6, 2013 10:54:21 GMT
again this is my opinion, but anything which has new technology, (aimed at their new injection system at the time), has teething problems for 12-18 months, with recalls and re calibration etc, in that transition period. Honda were the same on the cbr's. and at the back end of the carb life, they had got it pretty much spot on. remember this bike in 1998 was the entire SHIZ on the bike scene. it was the animal on the block and took the crown from GSXR. if you wanted injection i would be looking into a minimum of the second generation Fi system bikes so you can write off and glitches. then you start to increase donor bike costs etc. granted the bike you buy will never be its initial stated 150bhp or whatever it was claimed. but with a refresh and carbs sorting out i recon it would be interesting. i would advise the same on the mevabusa motors. but a lot more can be done with them as you can use yoshi kit parts from the 600/750 and thousands. possibly a busa engine in the trike.. something different.. extra 300cc would be interesting
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vtR1k
Full
I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Apr 6, 2013 12:00:52 GMT
Ok thanks, with the wiring loom then, is this something you can purchase from RTR or easily make up yourself? I have a 2004/5 model and I used about 150 metres of wire. But, the engine is great and powerful. I only mounted new clutch plates and springs. And off course some maintence. Wiring modification is to be done yourself. Don't underestimate it! Protect it good against the elements and engine heat. Use good quality wires and connectors. Where possible, solder it and use shrink tube. Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using proboards
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Post by edwinwl on Apr 6, 2013 14:15:07 GMT
A few years ago an average car had 13 km of wire...
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Post by bluecob99 on Apr 6, 2013 14:44:30 GMT
l guess it makes sense for a re-build then if you purchase a bike with say more than 25000miles on the clock, well while its out l guess, what are we talking for a general re-build then parts wise?
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Apr 6, 2013 15:38:33 GMT
it depends what you find inside, but with no major issues and no labour charges 2-300. if you can get parts at trade all the better. i know it adds cost but its the right thing to do if you can. bikes major services are at 16000 miles, thats valve clearance, i put a new cam chain and tensioner on there too. if your not up on cam chains i would do all the other engine work yourself with a haynes, then just get a bike mech. to time it up. prob check valve seats too and give them a little work as its nice and easy while its all apart.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2013 16:31:11 GMT
For me the obvious powerplant would have been a V-Twin SP1, but only because I love the grunt, noise and power. I am more than happy with the power the R1 gives, and even like the note of the exhaust. But nothing really beats the noise of my SP1 or Buell.
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Post by bluecob99 on Apr 6, 2013 16:32:03 GMT
Thanks Paul, do you think your general handy man with a Haynes and a bit of time could re-build an engine like this? I'v rebuilt a Italian Lambretta engine in the past and played around with a few engines, l guess having the right tools for the job will help. Trouble is when purchasing a complete bike l guess, not everyone that's selling it is going to be 100% honest?? l mean there must be some dogs out there? Pot luck in some cases.
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Apr 6, 2013 17:31:12 GMT
Haha, in my time we have had engines apart track side overnight before ready to race next day. All spanner work is pretty easy if you have clear instruction and patience. However I don't time up engines regularly, for my own peace of mind I get one of my pals to come do it who does more regularly. I like the peace of mind of not smashing my valves to bits cos I missed a tooth. If it was mine I would carry out a little head work whilst its off too, minor gas flowing and tidying up and port matching. Possibly balance the crank pistons and rods. Inspect rings and pins, maybe even new shells. Remember that your doubling the weight its designed to pull, and more so, doubling traction, a big thick flat contact patch tire
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Post by bluecob99 on Apr 6, 2013 19:41:36 GMT
ok should take me an evening then!! ha. well l can do all the general work l guess and then find someone to carry out the timing etc? all good fun!!
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Post by Paul (madeye) on Apr 6, 2013 20:04:31 GMT
Haha. Yeah, just an evening. But it can be done co currently when you can't do any noisy work. The carbs can be stripped and sent off. Head off etc
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