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Post by airforceone on Oct 31, 2014 11:37:57 GMT
Just had a pic of my new Plenum from DanST, looks really nice. Now allows me to upgrade in the future to turbo or supercharger. This will now be plumbed into the passenger side air scoop to provide a better air flow to the TB's.
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Post by airforceone on Nov 3, 2014 17:18:40 GMT
Trial fitted the plenum and it fits really nicely. Great bit of work from Dan at DanST, highly recommended if you don't have the facilities to manufacture anything like this.
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mowers
Junior
All new to this site hopefully upload some pictures soon of my build progress
Posts: 20
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Post by mowers on Dec 22, 2014 14:08:27 GMT
Hi could I ask who wired up your dash you said Andy
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Post by airforceone on Dec 22, 2014 14:11:52 GMT
I wired up the Dash2, very easy.
Especially with the cable that connects to the OMEX ecu, this passes water temp, battery volts and a load of other stuff.
You will still need to wire the speed sensor and fuel tank level directly to the Dash2.
Also if you want oil temp and pressure this will also need wiring directly to the Dash. Race Technology sell a combined Oil temp/pressure sensor for the Dash.
I haven't bothered with oil temp or pressure at the minute but I have run extra wires during the lecky part of the build so I can fit them later.
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Post by mike6r6 on Mar 7, 2015 12:48:36 GMT
Hi Ned
Have you got any pictures of where you fitted the coolant temp sensor in your thermostat? Did you use the omex push fit or screw in type?
Kind regards
Mike
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Post by airforceone on Mar 24, 2015 14:07:51 GMT
Eventually got some of my hoses turn up so gave them a trial fit. Still need to plum the filter in to one of the side pods, could be a bit tricky as I may need to move the coolant tank not sure yet, so some more measuring to be done and hose/pipe to be ordered. Haven't started the car in a long time, brakes need bleeding and a real good check of all nuts and bolts so a few weeks work left to do. On a good note my rotation at work has changed so I may make Stoneleigh but I doubt the car will. Ref the coolant sensor Mike, it is an omex sensor and it's a screw in. I just drilled and tapped a hole in the back (Flat side) of the thermostat, and screwed it in using some high temp sealant, haven't had any issues with leaking.
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Post by airforceone on Apr 27, 2015 16:48:55 GMT
Finished off a few jobs that were outstanding today. One of which was to finish plumbing in the plenum to the engine air pod. Also removed rear brake calipers to swap out the green stuff pads for some mintex one. Brake system all back together just needs topping up and a good bleed then I can get it back on the road to test out the front brake upgrade. Engine cover also needs to be cut again for the plenum to poke through and also for the K&N filter. There isn't going to be much of it left by the time I've finished.
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Post by airforceone on Apr 14, 2016 12:53:46 GMT
Thought I would start the car today, it's been sitting idle for a good few months due to work commitments, weather, brake upgrades trying to finish the carbon parts finished.
Turning the key showed that all electrics good, dash working fine all lights good, turn the key to start the engine and nothing. So after 5 minutes of head scratching and trying to remember if I had done anything that would cause this I removed the starter motor to test it. It was one of those "Don't tell me the engine has seized" moments.
After disconnecting the starter motor I gave the wiring a good check over then tried the key again and same again nothing the starter was dead. I don't know why but I was sure that I had changed the starter motor when I fitted the engine but it looks like I hadn't it was the original one from my donor car so at nearly 20 years old it was to be expected.
I've found a new one on eBay for £50 which doesn't seem too bad, I've made an offer so will hopefully get it for that price including delivery.
Won't really be happy until it's fitted and the engine starts.
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 14, 2016 18:05:38 GMT
Have you considered upgrading to a light weight one?
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Post by airforceone on Apr 14, 2016 18:58:58 GMT
Light weight starter motor?? Didn't know there was such a thing anyway I'm no lightweight myself so any attempt to make the car lighter is just a waste of money. I could make it 50kg lighter by going on a diet...lol...I will however be changing to a lightened Flywheel at some point...
I've turned the flywheel using a screwdriver and it turns quite easy so I'm confident that it's the starter motor and not the engine. I got the new motor for £55 which included delivery so should be here on Monday.
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 15, 2016 8:46:52 GMT
Is there any chance that it's your battery having insufficient CCAs to haul the starter to life? Seems more likely than your starter has become seized..
Maybe take the battery out of your daily driver and fire up off that first, that check costs naught but time!
My expensive Red Top racing battery had just this problem, and had to be replaced, so now it sits at my feet at home on a trickle charger every day, which doubles as an 80s-tastic security measure; battery miles from car, which ain't driving away!
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Post by mawdo81 on Apr 15, 2016 10:12:14 GMT
The cca is needed to overcome the compression of the engine- if starter fails to run even off the engine (as I think airforce said above) that should indicate a problem with the starter.
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Post by airforceone on Apr 15, 2016 13:00:10 GMT
Starter is not seized in fact it spins a bit to easy. As I said I can turn the fly wheel with a screw driver so no really force required.
My dash2 display is showing 14.2 volts from the battery and Ive had it on the conditioner.
Motor ordered any way so it will be easy to find out the problem come Monday.
Cheers for the input...
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 15, 2016 17:19:00 GMT
Starter is not seized in fact it spins a bit to easy. As I said I can turn the fly wheel with a screw driver so no really force required. My dash2 display is showing 14.2 volts from the battery and Ive had it on the conditioner. I wouldn't dream of teaching granny to suck eggs, but the high voltage or sitting on the conditioner is going to have no impact on the cold charging amps delivery. I had my 12.8V all day on my fully 'conditioned' (6 pips on my CTEK charger) battery tested at a battery place, and its CCAs had gone from 300A to 16A, which isn't enough to start a row on a forum over batteries. You can test the battery by applying half the potential load to your battery (so 50-150Amps of draw depending on your battery) and monitoring the voltage, if it drops below 9.6Vs, it's for the bin, if it doesn't budge, it'll leave to fight another day. Generating that much load might be tough without an inverter though, myself, I'd bring the battery to a battery place while you wait for the starter to arrive I'll crawl back in my hole now...
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Post by airforceone on Apr 21, 2016 13:08:06 GMT
All sorted.
Just fitted the new starter motor and started first time, quite surprised as I haven't started it in about 5 months. so time to start putting the car back together and finishing all the bits and pieces that have been waiting to be finished.
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