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Post by carlyd on Apr 3, 2024 11:22:31 GMT
On the subject of the ECU, you need a higher spec unit from OMEX than the normal engine requires, the 600 will not handle the VVC. I thinks it is the 710. However the 600 will handle the IMRC control. Does the omex come with all engine wiring and plug and play or do I still need to chop some wiring in? Thanks guys I just had a quick look at the Omex 710. £1,095 for the ECU and almost the same again for wiring? I think I'll stick with Ford ECU
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Post by kiwicanfly on Apr 4, 2024 8:30:57 GMT
The ECU and looms are sold separately.
However my blacktop loom was plug n play.
AFAIR it also had Dash wiring for revs only.
Also only engine control, no lights or other stuff.
However best check with OMEX before you purchase.
Again I would be looking at that combination dash / ECU if I was buying today although OMEX is proven.
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Post by carlyd on Apr 5, 2024 9:57:32 GMT
I already have all the wiring for the lights etc so they will be on a seperate circuit. I am going to tidy up the engine and get it fitted, then I will tackle the wiring.
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Post by carlyd on Apr 8, 2024 10:02:45 GMT
So that's the Focus stripped and ready to be scrapped. Having now stripped x2 Focus and x2 Honda Accords I can say the Honda's are engineered to a much higher quality, the design and layout of everything seems to have been given much more thought from an engineering point of view. Also why the hell do Ford insist on using different size and types of fittings all the time. If there is a module with 4 bolts, 3 are 10mm and the third is 8 or even 7mm.. why? Also in the dash some fasteners are torx bolts, some are cross head screws, again why? it's so annoying. However in the end a huge crow bar and hammer fits them all I took the interior out looking for the fuel pump as I assumed it would be an in tank pump, however it must be an external pump as there wasn't one in the car. I have one with my kit so I am not bothering with that. On inspection of the engine which is in overall great condition I noticed some corrosion on the dip stick tube (is that common?) to the point of a small hole so I will replace that. Also why is that bolted to the head by a bracket that is almost impossible to get the exhaust manifold over? poor design again? I noticed all x4 of the large black rubber hoses which connect the intake manifold to the plastic inlet that bolts to the engine are in terrible condition so I will replace all of those and the hose clips. I managed to snap a thin air pipe so I will replace that too. I am also going to refresh the engine and gearbox, new seals and gaskets and a coat of paint so should be a quick turn around. I received a gearbox with the car when I bought it, I assumed as the engine was ST170 the gearbox would be too, however it looks different to the gearbox on my engine. Is this common practise? Any reason for this? which is the best to use please?
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Post by carlyd on Apr 23, 2024 9:47:17 GMT
I have been a bit delayed on this build as I have been doing a bedroom renovation so needed my garage for making wardrobes etc. I am also in the process of building cabinets, mitre saw station, benches etc for the garage so have not had much time on the Rocket 2. However I have changed my mind yet again on this build. The chassis is currently grey, it's boring and I want something a bit more wow. So I am going to go bright yellow for the chassis, black for the suspension arms and the body panels and seats etc. I plan do do a bit of customisation on the chassis which will include some welding etc so I am ging to build it as is, then strip it down, floor off and send it to powder coat then fully reassemble in yellow.
I have a question about the Gearbox, do people generally use the ST170 gearbox? I have have that plus one that came with the car which is different.
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